GSMGuy

TBH, I am tempted by the "all new" Zafira, to be launched at the w/end - looks quite nic and if they do a TD auto...... Mike

Jesus! Recipe for disaster... Mike

I'd say 3rd gear synchro is weak... If you take it slowly, does it still crunch? Mike

Don't forget, the 2.0 and the 2.3 all have one thing missing... Torque.... The Tdi 115 & 130 put out 310nm of torque at just over 1900rpm, whereas I would think the petrol motors would be approachink 4000rpm for max torque.. (which is prob a LOT less than 310nm) Raise the gearing and they would struggle to pull the car... Mike

Del - the only thing that will give you less revs at the same speed (in a manual) is a change in gearing, ie wheel/tyres or box/final drive... Changing the plugs leads will not change the gearing - it's a physical impossibility.. Mike

13deg sounds a bit high, mine gets to 7 easily.. Mike

I'd say those revs are about normal for a gearing of 20-22 mph per '000 rpm in top.. Mike

If the discs are as you say, it could be a buckled wheel, or a damaged tyre, or wheel balance prob. Try swapping rear to front and see if it either goes away or changes, at least it will rule out pads/discs.. Mike

Hmm, I have done the trip and the cruise on my Zetec Auto... However, I am not familiar with the Mk1, qas mine is 2002 - However it was just a case of recoding the original instrument cluster with VAG-COM. HTH Mike

Does your interior lamp, hazards and cig lighter work? If not, check your fuses... Mike

Sounds like slipping clutch packs to me m8.... Mike

Matt, it's full name is.. "Non Pressusure solvent weld cement" I use it on the waste fittinggs for the sinks when at work.. Remember the old "airfix" kits?? Same stuff, with a smell that gets you as high as a kite.... As said, it basically melts the components slightly, so they duse together... Just grabbed a tub out of the van, I quote.. "Suitable for use on UPVC, MUPS and ABS plastics" HTH Mike

That is one heavy duty piece of kit! Mike

Yup! Get a brand new genuine Bosch one for

Just as an aside.... Surely the stealers should keep items such as PCM and other ECU's available to "try" when diagnosing a fault - rather than just replacing and charging for them? With the probs I have had with my autobox, the place that fitted the new box "borrowed" a Jatco ECU from somewhere, and fitted it to my car - PRIOR to changing the gearbox, just to confirm that it wasn't an ECU fault, saved them the possibility of swapping the gearbox (again) in error... Just a thought.. Mike

Hang on - Surely if there is NO difference when unplugging the MAF, then that is the fault, as either wat the car is running on preset values... I thought that if you unplug it, and performance dies, it indicates that the MAF is fine... At least that's how mine is! Mike

JKSpoff, soz, only just seen your reply.. Anyway, the Trip was turned on using VAG-COM (I have the lead) and the stalk was easy to fit. Mike

Went out today, in the torrentials - noticed wipers were very slow.. After 5 mins they had virtually stopped - If you put them i=on they rose about 8 inches and stopped, then if you turned off they parked.. Got the multimeter out, and measured the current draw (easiest way is to remove the wiper fuse and push the probes in there) Current was 24A, BUT if I "helped" the wipers, it dropped to a much more reasonable 6A.... So a bit of investigation required... Especialy as new motors ain't cheap!!! After carefully watching the system "in operation" as it were - the NS wiper shaft seemed to be "flexing" a lot... Putting my hand on the shaft, I found it to be getting V hot... indicating friction.... So, I whipped the NS wiper off and squirted the shaft with some Plusgas.... put it back together..... Result?? Perfect, and back to full speed.... So at the weekend I am gonna strip and grease the whole assy, as it would appear to be a simple lube prob.... PHEW!!! Hope this helps others... Mike

I used one too a couple of weeks back - didn't smell as fresh after a few days though. Mike

Hmm, in the old days, peeps used to put a bit of petrol in the diesel, not to clean out, but to prevent waxing in winter... Older engines are not made to as fine tolerances as modern ones, so te running clearances were greater, allowing for a thicker oil film between components. As I said in my last post the running clearances of a modern motor are FAR smaller, so therefore a much thinner oil fim is present, and under greater stress (hence the very specific requirements for the oil used in out TDi's & esp PD's!) The tightest clearances exist in the fuel sytem components, of which the injectors are externally lubed by the engine oil, and internally ONLY by the fuel.. So what effect do you all think flushing a solvent (petrol) through the innards of a finely machined mechanism, thus washing away it's precious oil film, and still whacking hell out of it with a cam lobe, is going to do to the surfaces?? Also PD motors should NOT be run on BIO at any time.. It states so in the handbook! http://img126.echo.cx/img126/8505/kd0115zy.jpg Mike

Tbh, the guys who did the box are aware of the chip, and they have emailed Jatco, who tell them the box is designed to cope with 220bhp and upto 400nm torque... Don't forget the same box, more or less is used on the V6 Gal.. the Rover 75 petrol and diesel, some range rovers and Disco's and quite a few large capacity american cars too... But you were reading my mind in thinking about the torque, because apparently it's the diesel engined cars that cause more probs... Kepping the chip though, 'cause it flies!! :huh: Mike

I'd save yourself a LARGE wedge of

Ditto with Redneck, although Seatkid, the internal sliding piston of the PD (the pump element) is free to rotate inside the body, and is in fact encouraged to do so with the effect of compressing and releasing the spring against which it acts.. http://www.disco2.com/tech/td5engine/eui.jpg Mike

Redneck took the word out of my mouth... Even only 3 miles of driving, in my opinion will have caused serious wear to the fuel pump and the unit injectors, which operate with clearances as little as 0.005mm the ONLY thing that lubes the internal parts of these is the diesel... Petrol will just strip the surfaces and you will have bare, and hot metal to metal contact..... After 3 miles, there will almost definately be scoring on the internal surfaces of the injectors, which causes further problems as the internal components rotate and slide against each other.. Although there will have been a "reserve" of clean diesel in the filter, this will have quickly been pumped through and back to the tank, to be diluted, as the PD system is a constant flow and return type, with the engine drawing what it needs from the filter. Mike

Tonneau cover is the next addition to mine.. Oh, nd Paul, got the gal back yesterday, the difference is unbelievable, box is silky smooth, changes, even on full throttle are smoth and barely peceptible.. But, being a perfectionist, the guy at the garage is not totally happy with the 2nd to 3rd change... It's better than it ever has been - as is the whole box btw.. So, he wants it back for an afternoon in a couple of weeks to swap the valve chest over... again... At least they are thourough - I reckon they have certainly made a loss on my job, especially in the labour area! But I am REALLY pleased with the way it drives now :) And, as a gesture of goodwill for all the hassle, they drained, flushed and regassed my A/C for me FOC, it was about 10% down through natural leakage, cold as hell now :( Mike