Mirez

The mans clearly a fool. Its just a dumb fuse box with no controllers or anything like that so what exactly he plans on reprogramming is anyones guess! It comes minus fuses so if any of your own are looking iffy or have burnt then you'll need to make sure you order those at the same time and since the main feed is a cable to the battery then yes you will obviously have to disconnect it to replace the box. :) As Mike says, the only thing you'll need is the radio code but make sure you have the keys outside the vehicle - they have a nasty habit of locking the doors when you reconnect the battery! <br>

Correct, the solenoids are normally burried deap in the box so in most cases the box will need to be removed from the car for a strip down and repair.

Never had a problem with it before but I would have thought it would be accessible from behind the glovebox - it should be early on in the HVAC system and the recirc "inlet" is in the passenger footwell,

It IS essential. :) The Rev counter will be way out if you dont get a diesel clock set.

Humm that is rare, PATS1 no less. If you look around for mondeo/escort PATS programming it'll be the same and you should be able to do it yourself with that red key.

Most likely wires broken in the door gaitors, its extreamly common - and next weekends project for me :)

The transponders unique, the ECU learns the transponders code not the other way around. With two unique keys you should be fine :)

Well I have no idea what you two are on about lol - I'll google it later and if its nasty I'll be driving down to see you Mr Gregers! Yeah the VC lead should work on the climate system if the aboves not working. What codes you got?

Annoyingly there are a number of ways depending on year. Try: ECON & Fan Down + Temperature Colder or ECON and the buttons for upper, middle and lower air vents

Get the codes read, if the panels flashing its logging a code so that will be in the memory. A number of things could stop the AC working from a faulty pressure switch to an internal control error. I can dig out a wiring diagram if you really want it but its a LOT more work to go checking wiring when its self-diagnosed. You dont even need vagcom with the climate system, turn the ignition on then press and hold both the "Recirc" and "ECON" buttons for about 3 seconds. Any fault codes will now be displayed - use the red/hotter button (front) to cycle through them. Report back the codes and I'll tell you what they refer to :)

lol - really... Maybe thats what VW told Ford at concept stage but its certainly not how it functions by design now lol

100% - all V6 and TDI galaxy's are VW. Only the 2.0 and 2.3 are Ford.

Do the brake lights actually work though? Both bulbs failed will trigger the MIL light - if they do then its quite possible you have one or more frayed/shorted wires in the tailgate rubber.

I would check the wiring in the 3 doors first as its extreamly common for the wiring to break which would cause loss of sound. If you only have one channel audio then it will probably cut out when turned up, especially if the wiring to the other channels is shorted.

There is, with a population of about 20 lol. Welcome to the forum :)

Dont get funny because you dont get an answer in THREE minutes! There is a SEARCH function up the top, USE IT, read the posts, follow the advice and then post your question with what you have and havn't tried....

No and No, the Ka clock is different (as is in the mondeo one) and the LCD clock is the Mk1 version - the Mk2 hasn't got the wiring up there and on an 03 the headlining was changed anyway so there isn't a space for it.

That's excellent! I've seen pro jobs not look as good as that :) I take it you've done that before?! Excellent job though, congratulations!

Dear God Man! :) :)

Ahhh, get a magnectic pickup tool because yes, the 3rd is also 10mm. They are in a triangle arrangement; one at the front, one at the back and one underneath - the one underneath is such a PITA to get to its unreal. The inlet pipe from the EGR system comes up from the left and feeds in under the EGR. If you remove this pipe first (allen bolts) you'll find it much easier to get to that third bolt. There are gaskets at both ends of the pipe but I've never has an issue reusing them :)

Check it again, and again and then a forth time - just because the insulation is intact is no indication that the copper cores inside are!

Just replace the pump, its failed - end of. Or go and speak to your local SEAT dealer, in my experience they generally care a lot more about the cars :) You could also ask an independent BOSCH dealer as they normally sell these quite frequently as its the same pump thats used on the Mk4 Golf, Ibiza and T4.

The Galaxy Ghia version has all of the functions you require, the benefit of the Sharan one is that is comes with two additional gauges for oil temperature and volts although your car is unlikely to have the sensor in place for the oil temperature so you'll also need a new sump and sender if you wanted that function. As said, all the other functions should be available by just upgrading the cluster - the only one that's going to need work should be the outside air temperature sender as the sender won't be present. If you need the wiring then speak to me or Chris, we can both provide wiring diagrams should you need them :( Vag-Com can't correct the mileage though, you'll need vag-tacho and a different cable for that!

Well as said its not the booster heater or additional heating system - yes its PART of that system but the pump is not controlled by it and is independent. It won't register as a diagnosic fault as its a dumb 12V pump with no comms, the only indication would be by accessing module 18 and seeing if there are any "overtemp" shutdowns. I'm not that suprised you can't find another with it working as dealers certainly dont seem to have a clue and a lot of people simply don't care until something fails in a major way (which it won't) - I doubt any of the people you stopped even knew what it was or did. The very simple test here is to get a volt meter on the pumps connector - It'll have 12V when the iginitions been on for at least a minute, in your case the pump won't work - you can then ask them why when its a simple 12V pump and you give it an input of 12V it won't work? Ohh yeah because its friggin broken. If you could then do the "you are such a moron" look I would be happy :( If they refuse to accept they are wrong then get them to put it down in writing, that way when winter roles around and your aux heating system fails you can go back in and tell them you were right and demand it fixed :)