Mirez

There are many other advantages my man :42: Lower intake temperature Higher oxygen concentration so increased power Increased response Reduced oil consumption Higher MPG Reduced emisions (and subsequently hopefully just the one thrashing at MoT time) Reduced turbo lag Reduced turbo strain Reduced condensation/water intake I'm planning to keep this gal for a fair few years to come so the outlays worth it, plus its interesting ;) As the emission directives get stricter this is more then likely to become standard. I'll post up two power graphs later to show before and after power and also report back in 5k or so with the before and after opacity test results if you'd like :)

I'm not sure you want to know! There's no easy way to say it....£110 :42: Oh and yes, there are a few UK companies that can supply it.

It really isn't that tricky, but it is time consuming! For anyone that's interested the Mann+Hummel ProVent200 is now installed :42: Not exactly the smallest thing in the world to squeeze under the Galaxy bonnet but its in and working - guess only time will tell just how effective it is but the USA boys have been running these on VW PD engines for a good number of years with fantastic results: Provent200: Told you it was friggin massive: Where it connects: Pipework: Cover re-attached:

Water pump! There will be natural circulation of heat but it won't be enough to keep the engine cool and certainly won't be enough to allow the cabin heater to work.

Well I help dismantle cars with a mate so most things lol, nothing in silver though. Currently dismantling a jeans blue one.

Got two just about to go to aution - they sell for upwards of

Do you mean the Sharan or another VW? The sidelights arn't monitored by the lamp circutry on the Mk2 Galaxy and its not a true canbus system either. I'm also not aware of the Sharan changing to full canbus until the Mk3 revision thats just been released.

http://www.mirez.co.uk/Galaxy/PDF/Galaxy%20-%20Intake%20Manifold%20Cleaning.pdf Galaxy - Intake Manifold Cleaning.pdf

Nope - not tested.

Yes I'll put all the required tools in the write-up but there aren't many fortunately :) Ferric Chloride is an etchant most commonly used in the creation of circuit boards, you can pick it up from a number of places including maplins and ebay and its about

And then measure the resistance between the surround and a known good ground.

No they are earthed separately. Are you trying this with the engine off? The PCM should shut off the sockets if the current draw is considered high enough to lower the batteries capacity to a non-start condition. Is the battery itself in good condition?

The process is easy, the job is a little tricky as for most of it you are working blind. I'll write up a how-to for it as its certainly worth doing - the cost was just

Not wishing to sound rude but its part of the procedure for virtually all ABS systems that the wheel be spun up after replacing the sensor, If Ford assume (rightly or wrongly) you have completed the work correctly then the natural conclusion would be that the system is still faulty. Its kind of 50/50 really, yes they probably should have checked you had calibrated the system again but equally you should have researched it fully before taking on the job.

Its part of the antitheft system, either someones tried to use an incorrect key or the lock was frozen and they had to use excess force to move it, Either way its designed to snap the barrel which is why it rotates freely. As above remove the handle. The kits for repair are available online and from dealers but removing the barrel from the lock requires it to be rotated so you may well need to replace instead.

Hi Kalie, yes the seats will fit Mk1 and Mk2 Galaxy's as the mounting points are all the same so anything up to 2006 will fit right in :)

I'm now looking at a ProVent200 system which would hopefully stop this from happening again, seems the better option as I dont want to disable the EGR system so removing the oil vapour is the only other option.

Thats the MAF senspr thats on the pipe out of the airbox/ intake. The MAP sensor is in the ECU on Mk1's with a piece of pipe taken from the manifold, on Mk2's its in the upright pipework from intercooler to manifold and also measures intake temperature.

Exactly the problem and cause :) ALLWAYS use something between the trolly jack and the chassis - an offcut of decking board is ideal.

Make sure you are clearing them properly, the immobiliser one for instance wouldn't have come back unless the key doesn't match, which wouldn't let you start the car.... The engine codes: 01237 - Fuel Cut-off Valve - N109; mechanical malfunction 00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 00527 - Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor (G72) All three of them will cause loss of power, replace the MAF and MAP sensors will fix the last two. If you are sure you have properly reset the codes then you'll need to look at replacing N109 as well.

Not a lot to be honest! :) The old type simply has one embedded 0 ring on the disc, the new type has two.... I must look under the cap and see if anythings looking corroded as that'll be two years at the end of this month.

Clear them, take it for a drive and then repost. You don't know how old those codes are at the moment!

You're getting the engine code mixed up with the engine number. ALL Galaxy 115's are AUY code, the year build is irrelevent here. All engines will have a different number (serial number), in your case 2Y08922 and this would normally be the key. Yes, two different tensioners were fitted during the production years of the AUY engine, but since records don't show the first serial number to have the revised unit fitted (just the build date) the only sure fire way is to remove and inspect.

Surely someone knows how to do this? The factory fitted DVD isn't for earphones only...? Yes it is, there is no link between the headunit and the RSE system other then a simple 12V signal for on/off override. If you want sound out through the speakers then you need to see what type of input the 600(0?) has available. From memory I'm not aware of an AUX in on it so that'll be the first stumbling block. The simplist alternative would be to look for an FM modulator and use that instead.

The latter, the disc isn't held in by anything other then that C clip but the corrosion and general festerage will make it tight so the bolt can be used to retrieve if required. its not included in the OEM kit and when I did mine it came away freely.