Mirez

Check under each seat, you'll find a couple of connectors - undo and redo each one as thats reasonably common on Mondeos to cause this problem. Make sure you do it with the ignition off and the car having sat for 20/30 mins.

Not 100% following there, did you buckle all the seatbelts and it still didn't go off? If the occupancy sensor is made and the seatbelt isn't buckled in then the warning will be activated - so if anyone (or more importantly anything (such as a laptop)) is on one of the seats then that seatbelt needs to be buckled.

Not yet... still looking for the illusive fluffy dice. ;)

Well the retrofit is complete... certainly not one of the easiest retros I've done! For anyone else thinking of doing this you'll need: MFSW Switches - there are 3 types to pick (Stereo controls only / Stereo + Cruise Control / Navigation + Cruise Control ) MFSW Clock Spring Controller 453 Indicator stalk without the cruise function General Notes: For all real purposes there are only two sets of switches -radio without cruise and radio with cruise -the only difference is the "MOD" button is removed for the navigation version. The non MFSW steering wheel can be easily adapted to take the additional controls - you DONT need to replace the wheel The non MFSW airbag can have the switch assembly replaced to add the additional controls - you DONT need to replace the airbag! The clockspring unit will have to be changed - the new unit needs 4 additional wires taken to it not just one like most other VW's The normal MFSW relay used by other VW's of this age including the Sharan and Alhambra (Relay 452) won't work - you need a specific Galaxy one (Relay 453) which is probably the biggest stumbling block is sourcing the parts. 452 will see the nav unit ok and can be talked to with VagCom but it can't talk to the controller within the Galaxy Steering Wheel ;) Although 453 has what looks like a VAG number on it ( 7M5 907 487 ) none of the VAG dealers (Seat, VW, Skoda or Audi) can see it or order it - its £240 from Ford!!!!!! Nobody seems to have the details of the soft coding for this controller. By luck: 01028 is a softcode that works for the cruise and nav unit, 00017 seems to be for non cruise cars - you are on your own for anything else though!

Bloody ell gregers a loss of 12mpg I would want flames spitting out of the heater for that lol! Have they fitted the right exhaust? If its a smaller bore then the engine cant get rid of the waste fumes so its working harder and using more fuel.

It hooks on the left, screws on the right so make sure its hooked it fully. I can't see it warping myself as its thick plastic but its possible the screw threads have gone as they are only plastic and if over-tightened will strip.

:) Maybe, our last galaxy used to sit for two weeks at a time and always juddered for the first 10 miles or so - ideally you should get it fully warmed up every trip, but short trips shouldn't cause much of an issue to the mechanicals but expect the exhaust to rot out quickly as it will fill with condensation.

Easy fix... Walk! 1/2 mile indeed you lazy sod... In my experience leak stoppers seem to cause more harm then good in the long run.

No :) Excessive oil in the intercooler pipework (since there would be a small/normal amount in there) is from either failed seals in the turbo or from excessive blowby from worn piston rings. You don't need high (or even normal) oil pressure for either to occur although both conditions would be exasperated by high pressure.

Attached: :lol:

Ahh, well again its probably LED so you wont be able to just remove it - also most MoT stations are wise to that and part of the check is to ensure certain warning lights illuminate briefly during ignition on.

Yes. Use the search engine to read about the auxiliary heater - there is loads of information about it.

Perfectly normal, not adjustable - controlled electronically by ECU. They are all like that. 900's ok, if you REALLY want to change it then it Is electrically adjustable using VAG-COM.

All they need to do is measure the voltage on the bus to a ground point - as said it should be anywhere from 3v to 9v (maybe even as high as 11v in rare cases) but should immediately drop to ground when the diag tool is connected - if it remains any higher then 1 or 2 volts then the controllers won't acknowledge the request for communications.

Not normally but you do need to remember its significantly heavier then the focus. What engine have you got? The td comes in 90,115, 130 and 150 power outputs. The 90 is a bit of a slug and if your focus is the more common 115 engine then that weight difference will show. The 130/150 should feel spritely by comparison.

What he said! But no, I can't help with that serial number and I suspect you'll need to speak to a main dealer to get that code

Ok first things first you are being told the car's gutless? Whats is feel like to YOU? If could be a long established issue (such as MAF failure) that you've gotten used to rather then a newly generated fault so you need to see what its like for yourself. On the ECU side of it I've never seen one fail to talk, it would be a reasonably serious internal failure for that to happen as its a basic operation before all the software gets involved for it to link up correctly. Can they see any other module in the car? If they can't then its possible that K-Line is shorted, the K-=Line is the diagnostic bus that runs around the car - normally if floats at a voltage from 3v to 9v and is pulled to ground to get all the controllers into diagnostic mode - aftermarket radios and/or dodgy/faulty wiring have been known to feed the K-Line 12V and thus keep it from being pulled to ground. If they can talk to other controllers then the K-Line must be ok and subsequently you can move on to looking at the ECU - specifically checking the state of the connector for corroded pins as whilst I've not seen a Gal suffer this problem its a semi-common thing on older Golf's and Bora's and leads to similar issues.

If starts M then PM me and I'll sort you out, else it'll be a trip to a dealer

As attachedRSE Mondeo-Galaxy 2001-2006.pdf

03 is a Mk2 and the Mk2 cars all use the VW parking system so I'm at a loss why it's not got the VW number stamped on it (Part number 7M3-919-283) Upload a photo of the controller will you and I can tell you if its a VW part of been retrofitted to the car instead.

Martyn, put the vehicle details in your signature as without knowing what model, spec and year you have nobody's going to be able to help.

Whats failed? Most, if not all, modern cars use LED's for the dashboard lighting so it's highly unlikely to have failed in the cluster itself.

If the powers been disconnected at any time then it will ask for the keycode. The travelpilots the same so make sure you have the right code for the right unit (you can enter is 3 times before a half hour lock out). If you don't have the remote control for the unit then thats the first problem as you need it to enter the code.

Don't follow that? In the context of braking, as the vehicle brakes the weight will be transferred to the front - the spring and shock will both be loaded at this point and if you then hit (for the purpose of this example) a large speedbump the upward energy will be dissipated by the strut not the spring. Submarining takes place from around 15mph and up, you don't need to be pushing it you just need some idiot to pull out in front of you requiring a heavy brake for the effect to be present - the further the front end drops the higher the rear end becomes and subsequently braking efficiency is reduced. However as you say the strut itself isn't in question but the top mount is. Neither of us can comment without seeing the vehicle and I'm not trying to encourage parts to be changed for the sake of it, I simply don't like the attitude of leave it till it breaks because on a brake or suspension component that normally occurs when you (or the poor sod you are about to hit) really need it to perform.

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