Mirez

Oh and be carefull if you go down the "my wife was driving" route, nearly all the scamera vans take two photos - one of the speeding offence and one zoomed in to show the drivers face. You could be done for contempt, perverting the course or something else of which the legal name escapes me. All have more serious consequences then 3 points /

You send the NIP back which basically states you were the driver at the time, they'll then send you another letter indicating what they intend to do. 36 in a 30 is low as far as they are concerned so they almost certainly wont take you to court over it (unless there is some other factor) and they'll 'offer' you

You can't (not that I know of anyway) - if there is no responce then like I said, thats the first port of call. If you can't get comms then you need to double and tripple check all the wiring as thats certainly an electrical fault. Get a volt meter and ensure you have 12V and a good ground at the heater as a basic start.

Check all the fuses to the unit and then check the wiring, also make sure you reconnected the connector inside the unit when you took it apart. If you can't get a responce from it then thats the first port of call as if its locked out then you wont get anywhere until its reset.

See this is why forums are so much fun, because everyone thinks what they say matters. Firstly let me assure you I could not be calmer, infact I'm rather amused since some of the arguments seem now to be down to personal comments but in conclusion, whilst my work involves engine testing, durability and destruction, I'm happy to sit back and not argue further points on the subject. I'll simply let those that believe overall block temperature has little to do with engine wear carry right on. :D :D Smile all :rolleyes:

Incorrect. The ONLY reason for the aux heater is that it enables the engine to achieve operating temperature quickly. Now granted as a result, on these cars, cabin temperature is greatly influenced but there are many cheaper and more effienct options they would have gone with if its sole purpose was to do that. Your argument looses further strength when you remember its on the COOLENT line. Any heat added to this circuit will naturally boost coolent temperature and therefore lead to an increase in engine temperature- its not rocket science old boy, the laws of physics don't change! The VW TDI is also renowned (in engineering circles - guess you dont hold a doctorate in engineering? :rolleyes: ) for being so efficient it CAN struggle to reach teperature. With the extra pipework and size of the cabin effiency would have been compromised yet further so whilst your argument has some merit you have missed the concept entirely. Maybe you should do a little research online before you wade in...

Read the PDF above! Fuses 2, 12 and 19 all have outputs to the heater.

Nonsence youself! Most engine wear occurs when a car is cold- FACT. If the car takes a further, say 15 minutes, to warm up then thats 15 minutes more additional wear put on to the engine - call it what you want but VW/Ford arn't there to loose money, if they didn't need to fit it they wouldn't have!!!

Just the significant increase in engine wear as the car now struggles to warm up... no further problems - yet.

Had it on other cars, the basics of a starter motor is that a small drive gear is pushed onto the engine and then withdrawn as the key is released / engine starts. If it fails to be withdrawn properly then it spins up with the engine which spins it beyond the speed its designed for - hence the squeel. You can take it all apart and clean out the grunge whilst lubrictating it all up however its a reasonable effort to go to and since you have to take it off the car to clean, probably easier to just replace.

Many thanks!, Thats a very handy diagram :rolleyes: I can't see that one reading ambient though, surely thats manifold temperature? Which in fairness would make more sence since outside temp was 6*c last night but the "ambient" temperature I had showing was anything between 19 and 36...

Can someone give me the wherabouts of it? I've got some sporadic readins from it recently so think it neeeds checking out but can't find the thing - I was expecting it to be on the same pipework as the MAF but there is no other circuits there and only the one cable (MAF) in the vacinity. Is it built into the MAF by any chance?

I would pull fuse 12 for the aux heater and drive for a few days without that (check its 12 on your car) just to be 100% sure its not the aux heater as that'll probably be the easiest to fix! Next I would look at the usual suspects such as air filter and fuel filter to ensure its running as should do. After that it'll most likely be down to timing or an injector issue :unsure: but start with the simple things first!

Well I completed my glow plug replacement today - took just over 2 hours and was suprisingly easy to do. Rain stopped testing though so will have to wait for the eventual outcome but I am certainly optomistic of a fix :unsure: Detailed instructions of removal, replacement and refit attached. Hope they help :angry: AuxHeater.pdf

Rigsworth that is complete BS, the aux heaters coolent lines are spurs from the main matrix so even if they were blocked it wouldn't cause it to overheat. Its far more likely to be a broken main water pump. I will be taking my aux heater apart tomorrow with luck (if the weather is good) for plug replacement so will take more photos for the thread.

On mine the fuel filter sits inside a plastic circular holder (like a drink holder!) which has a nut and bolt to tighten it so the filter is clamped. I would say the O rings are the most likely cause, they need to be able to withstand diesel - but the area they sit needs to be spotlessly clean for a good seal. Where it sits into the filter there is a butterfly clip that holds it in place, I would also examine that and check for slack. If need be "adjust" where the clip locates on the top of the filter.

You need to ascertain the indirect cause of the problem before going down that route. Is it electrical? Is it fuel? Is is air? Now I dont do diesel engines as well as petrol so you'll probably want to get some clarification before entrusting this but my understanding is that diesel engines require some heat, air and fuel pressure in order to ignite. Therefore I would start by replacing the service items, mainly the air filter and (more importantly on a derv) the fuel filter. With that done and the intake pipework examined you can rule out the air. Again AFAIK the VW diesel is highly efficient and wont normally need the glow plugs to run for any length of time so, for me, that would point to likelyhood of fuel pressure - either the fuel pump or the injectors. Have you/the garage checked for any fault code?

Hi Dave, mirror repeater is available as a seperate part - Part Number 1K0-949-102 There is also one on ebay at the moment: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-Mk5-PASSAT-I...tem160293758537

I'm saying its a possibility, a theory at the least. Without knowing the exact metals in use, the densities, the structure and the clearances you couldn't possibly make any exact statements here but again in theory, the vanes are likely to be significantly thinner then the case metal.

Possibly also because metal expands at temperatures. The colder it is - theoretically at least, the more room the vanes would have to move - albeit only a tiny difference.

Thats exactly how its held, there is also a large circular metal clip on some models. If the pads in-tact and ok then I would go to halfords or the like and just get a stick on glass bit for it :rolleyes:

The controls are all connected to the mirror so if the outside mirror is U/S then the internal controller will be also. On the plus side you can easily change them yourself, and a replacement should cost between

It is indeed widely available, and effects earlier Fords and some others - technically its no great shakes, without being techincal they simply operate the lock which turns off the alarm and operates the central locking - just as if they had used the correct key. De-lock any car is always the answer!!!

Mk1 or Mk2? Our Mk1 did that, check to see if the clearence is still as it should be as the tabs that hold the switch in place on the underside of the surround had broken allowing it to tilt at an angle and catch on the same surround. Found many like that in scrapyards so check first, else you need some kind of contact cleaner, WD40 is a very bad idea - its sticky, oily and conductive. A contact cleaner like the one you suggest will clean without residue, you could also try some IPA which is a mild solvent solution. (I have loads if you end up in the westbury area!)

Well I finally gave in and booked the car in to my local Ford to fix the front end judder I've had for the last couple of months, for those that missed my topic there was a big side to side type wobble at 20mph and vibration through the vehicle when accelerating in anygear and was getting more evident daily. I changed front A frames, driveshafts (with CV's), droplinks, tie rods, tyres and even wheels without curing the issue. Now I've used my local Ford dealer a number of times, mainly for company cars, but I know them to be very honest and very reliable.... and no I havn't been drinking, there are still SOME good dealers out there. Dispite that I dont like paying anyone to do any work that I can do myself but after changing all the above I gave in - Booked the car in for Wednesday and told them they could have it until Sunday as long as the issue was fixed! Phone call at 3pm that day, diagnosed as nearside driveshaft. I naturally queried this having changed both already and more importantly having changed them both a second time since I thought they were poorly made, but the reply was it was highly likely to be that. Now, in the past dealers seem happy to chuck parts at a car regardless in an effort to fix faults - so I made the point that they needed to be 100% certain as the quoted