Mirez

I've been after a rear spoiler for the Mk2 for some time but have struggled to find one that either fits the Mk2 or that I like. However I've now discovered that Seat do one for the Mk2 alhambra (7M0071640BK9AX @

If its a TDCI 1.8 then its probably electronically limited however I don't think they ever put those in the escort so it'll be the edura 1.8 which has very little in the way of an ECU so get looking for a mechanical stopper of some description either on the throttle or by the airintake are the usual places. Legally I don't believe there are any implications to de-restricting it as its not a catagorised vehicle (hasn't got to have a governer by default) - but if he's going faster then 70 then of course you have other legal implications! :rolleyes:

The 2.3 hasn't got a turbo so thats one down, a coil pack failing would give a very juddery drive as you'll be firing on only 3 or even 2 cylinders - would be more of a misfire then anything else. If the engine is reving but the cars not acccelerating then its allmost certainly clutch slipping. One way to test (though not overly scientific!) try and pull away in 3rd up a steep with the handbrake on, if it stalls violently then its not the clutch if the revs drop down and then it stalls then it is.

You can adjust tone and volume of both the front and rear bleepers. An easy DIY job if you have a full version of vag-com - Where are you in the SW?

If it is the evaporator thats needed there is a very cheap one brand new on ebay ATM: Linky

Depends on the type of job you are planning to do, mainly internal/trim then a smaller size set - mainly mechanical then a larger size set. A lot of the VW mechanical stuff seems to be spline drive though.

One should never use "investment" in a car related discussion! :blink: Coupled with the points above, a general lack of people who can afford cars (or get finance) coupled with dealers having to be ultra competative means market values have simply collapsed for nearly new vehicles. For reference, my Golf cost

Are you talking about the car in your signature? If so its a Mk2 and a diesel at that - the headlight arrangement is very different to the Mk1 but more importantly the cruise control on the diesel is pure digital. You won't have a pump or any vacuum system to worry about, and there isn't anything mechanical in the engine bay to look at - its all done by the ECU and fuelling. The key things to check will be the clutch and brake pedal switches are working as expected and then look at the wiring from the control switch. Finally replace the control switch - it shouldn't be any more complicated then that :blink:

Ok to start, no you can't splice the wiring from the adjacent sensor. They are all addressed separately by the controller so they don't interfere with each other, wiring them together won't work and could potentially cause damage to the controller. That said they do share common supply and ground lines so you could splice those if you really wanted to. The inner right sensor has three wires, Pins 1 and 3 (Red and Brown) are the supply and ground feeds and the centre pin 2 (blue) is the signal wire. Its reasonably common for the wiring to break at the plug - I would advise you remove the insulation tape back a good 8cm and fully examine the wiring for any breaks. There is a connector in the engine bay, on the left hand side although that

The modules can be programmed. There are 6 (or 8 - cant remember) differnent notes that can be used for front / back warning so its possible your new module is adapted slightly differently however its more likely its the warning note because of system failure - caused by the two sensors not working... It is odd that both would fail at the same time but then with an electrical issue its also possible its taken them out when it blew - swapping them over is one way of testing, VAG-Com would also tell you, including the reason for the fail if its grounded / shorted etc.

Yes, Ebay link

What car/engine are we dealing with by the way? The fuel pump will be heard as a low down humm/buzz from the rear of the car, its slightly more evident on a petrol then a diesel but you should still be able to hear it clearly if the radio and fans are all switched off. It should run/prime every time the ignition is turned from off to position 2 (the one before start) and will run for about 3 seconds before stopping (it then starts running again once the engine is started but you won't hear it over the noise then as its pretty quiet). Try turning the ignition on and listening, once you know what you are listening for try turning it off and on a number of times - it should prime every time.

TIS has very little on the PATs side of things, where abouts are you located? See if you can find somone near by with VAG.com to read the codes however the fuel pump is one of the circuits that PATS controls so poor comms could obviously be a cause of an error. When it signals the fault can you hear the pump priming or not?

That would depend on whats failed really - without fully testing you won't know :rolleyes: From previous posts I believe the controller IS seperate from the motor and can be changed on its own but I don't know for sure. Personally I would look to change the whole assembly rather then individual parts as the root cause of the fault might still be present and take down your new motor/controller in time. When you say you greased the joints, did you just grease the visable ones? or did you remove the assembly - strip the arms/spindles from the housing and greese internally? If its the former then I would suggest you do the latter as thats where the majority of the "sticking" occurs.

There is a current sence on the circuit which turns them off when high current situations occur, if the wipe is in progress then they attempt to "park" for X more seconds before it turns off. Sounds like that could be the cause of your problems, either the mechanism needs removal and full overhaul or the motor/controller has developed a fault :rolleyes:

Bizarrly there is an ECU on ebay at the moment: Ebay Link Worth checking part numbers, failing that try "Breaking galaxy" in the ebay search and you'll get a few Mk2's - then email the sellers, I doubt some of them even know they have it so you might get lucky and get a whole one reasonably cheaply :unsure:

Ahh thought you had spun it by hand not with a power source. The fuses (3, 12 and 13), whilst all connected to the aux heater, don't do individual parts of it so highly unlikely to be one of those, so I would say you are probably correct in a controller failure :unsure: It can be replaced seperately, I've seen the exploded parts catalogue and its shown as one "end" piece complete with PCB - but from where and for how much....

Open circuit means that an electrical path isn't present, in other words at some point in the circuit there is a break. That could be a fuse is blown or missing, an internal break in the wiring or at worst an internal coil fault with the blower motor/controller If you take the unit apart again get a volt meter on the motors terminals, then try and spin it with vag-com and see if you get a reading on the meter. If you do then the motor has probably failed, if you don't then you have a wiring (or controller) failure.

They certainly do, I fitted some to my Mk1 when I first had it. :lol:

You got 14.6v when you turned the engine OFF?!? If so then you could have a capacitance issue, which might be the result of poor or coroded earth point(s). I would inspect the main earth points in the engine bay for corrosion as a first step.

Few bits need to go for the new years clearout so: VCR/DVD controller module, centre console and input/output panel from an 03 elegance Sony 12V Vehicle DVD player See here for info - new and still boxed Mk2 2001 Front grill with new ford logo (ie not blistered and silvery) plus lower grills Mk1 Indicator/Wiper stalks with cruise and trip function. Mk2 Speedo Cluster from an 03 Ghia with low (<30K) Mileage. Feel free to make offers before it heads to ebay!

If the lights are dimming then something is drawing a current, it won't be a direct short either as the fuse would blow so I would be more inclined to suggest you have a faulty motor/mechanism or its mis-aligned somehow rather then an electrical fault. Take the door panel off and have a look for missing bolts or foreign objects in the mechanism. As above soapy water may help but its more likely a something mechanical playing up rather then just sticking glass as a window motor takes a reasonable amount of force to stall it - unless its frozen of course?

It all depends on the rating they give it. It'll only get a cat c or d depending on damage - C is largely for extensive damage so from your description should be a Cat D and therefore won't need any checks before putting it back on the road as long as its within its MoT.

As above sorry to hear of your accident, but there is some good advice in the above posts and you sound like you are dealing with it very well. Its importent to try not to replay it in your mind that much - If your initial reaction was you were in the right then thats all you need to remember, going over it again and again will make you have unjust doubts. From your descriptions I think there is little the other party can do in defence, proving you were speeding excessively would be the only one and thats difficult to do. I must say though I suspect the car will be a Cat D write off, its amazing what little damage can write cars off these days but there is always the option to buy it back and do the repairs yourself - espeically if the damage is more cosmetic then mechanical. Good luck and keep us posted!

Depends on the number of beeps but the common cause is low battery, which you could now have with repeated cranking :wacko: