Mirez

What vehicle? I'm guessing the 2.3 in which case pump failures seem reasonably common after perished pipework

Nah its nearly 100% mondeo based, I did plan on doing some galaxy how-tos but I've not got around to starting any yet lol :lol:

In which case you just need 12v ignition switched, same for the led box. I can't image the current draw is that high so most circuits should be able to supply - typically the radio supply or cigarette socket is used for most acessories though.

Oi thats my site :lol: It wont work for the galaxy, mainly because the galaxy uses VW locking controllers and not ford. Passat programming, I've been told, works for galaxies though :)

From an ignition source via a fused spur. Never connect anything direct to the battery unless there is 100% no alternative :lol: If its just a rear sensor system then you probably want to connect it up to the reverse lights power supply, so it comes on when reverse is selected and turns back off after - else you'll have warnings all the time when sat in traffic unless it has a reverse input as well.

You wont wire the screens up to an aftermarket kit easily - simply because they arn't composite inputs (yellow, red and white phono plugs) like you might expect but digital drive from the visteon controller. For simplicity I would get hold of the ford controller and wire it in using that as its actually a good system (virtually the same one as the mondeo uses and is interchangeable) Seatbelts you dont change as they are attached to the chassis of the car and not the seat, just the catch which is intregal to the base - there are no revision changes to the system from 94 to 04 and even then its still all interchangeable. No other problems at all, its a very easy strait forward swap, only wiring you'll have to the seats is the SRS Side airbag system for which the wiring hasn't changed at all during production, the multimedia system which you can work on later and heated seats if you have them, which again isn't showing any variations.

The plastic surround of the box unit has two vertical lips coming up from it that the rail of the seat sits in, the non rotating ones seem to have wider rails and although they align to the floor plan bolt holes the plastic lips are essentially under them so the seat sits on the plastic lips and not the floor plan. I simply removed the lips with a sharp stanly knife and a pair of pliers - perhaps not the most appealing solution but you dont see it as the seat sits over it and when you dont have the plastic box unit to swap over its the most practical solution I could think of!

Hey you got a set then? Congrats! Where'd you source it from in the end? To answer your question the physical mounting points are the same for the rotational and non rotational seats, although the plastic surrounds to the "box" cavity that sits under the seats (where the electronics used to be) was different on mine which caused the seat not to sit right until swapped or modified. The swively bit is intregal to the seat base so I wouldn't have thought its an easy unbolt job, more a take off the base covers and swap them over assuming they are the same design and bolsters.

I would still check the cat, if its broken up and blocking the flow of gases it would run poorly - bouncing and shocks from the road could easily move/dislodge bits causing intermittant good performance. You'll get a second hand one less then

A broken up cat could cause you an issue along these lines, after running it hot down the hill it could have broken up - esp if its the original? When they fail they block the exhaust gases escaping causing back pressure and low performance with little other sign. If you get underneath her give it a thump with the palm of your hand (not to excessive!) and listen for rattling noises.

Wait for confirmation as I've not fiddled with the Mk1 2.0 but I believe there are two sensors, one for the instrument cluster and one for the ECU. From memory the cluster sensor is a gold thing with two pins so it sounds like you have the correct one, just not yet found it ;)

Components like that are notoriously hard to souce outside of main dealers. I would suggest a scrapyard is your best bet, look for a light frontal damage one with a cracked lamp assembly then take the whole assembly, most scrappies will see it as a defective part of little value so should get it for a

Are they plug and play or do they require anything else to work?

I have been offered a supurb Galaxy, its a 150bhp Ghia with leather, nav, dvd, duel aircon and xenons on a 55 plate with 25K for just

I would suggest a replacement cap as a routine part at 10 years, less then

Sorry I'm only just reading this now, but to everyone else I can supply codes FOC :o

Not speaking for the OP but my own issue, which sounds identical, is certainly not TC - based on the fact the car hasn't got it :huh: I will indeed be changing the roll restrictor myself, its only 3 bolts and AFAIK there is no alignment issues so just support the engine, unbolt and bolt the new one up.

Bits that hold the engine in ;) There are mounts, which literally take the weight and restrictors which stop the engine rotating or rolling when the power is applied

Snap, that sounds exactly the same as my on-going issues. To date: New wheels and tyres ARB links Lower Balljoints Lower Bushes (assembly) Track rod ends Driveshafts (assembly with inner/outter CV) I have a roll restrictor on order (

I would tend to agree, there is a load measuring circuit within that PCB that will shut off the wipers if the current is too high. If you have no obstructions, the wipers move freely and they are the right size (ie not coliding with each other) then I would assume the PCB is failing. You could take it apart and examine for dry joints as I'm sure its going to be something along those lines.

There is very little on the net regarding this. I'm annoyed more because I matched the cluster from a scrap car which was the same spec, engine and box so I wouldn't say its 100% down to box on yours - will your CC hold the car at a steady pace? Mine can't keep to a pace at all and its very jumpy (which I put down to inacurate speed readings). I'm in the process of obtaining some software to read the EPROM from the old cluster, i'll then upload that to the new cluster which should - in theory - then match the speed correctly. The downside is that I'm not sure how much of the new clusters "features" will be lost as a result.

I've done the mondeo, focus and a 106 in the past. Its a reasonably easy task but takes copious amounts of patience and a virtually sterile environment. The slightest bit of fluff under the film and you are, well.... fluffed :unsure: as you'll forever see it. I've never used the pre-cut stuff before, always used a roll and cut it to size myself but thats an art in itself!

The moduule with the buttons on the back of the center console or the controller box that sits out of site under it?

I 100% agree, however since I believe the bonnet switch is fitted as standard equipment with an alarm and not an option - that's why I recommended it. As I said earlier I can see zero logic in NOT installing a simple switch to protect the power supply of ANY alarm, hence why I believe it wasn't an option. Even the KA has a perimiter alarm with bonnet switch and every ford I have owned with factory alarm has had one - but again maybe its a seat/vw thing to have it as an option? When you say yours didn't have the switch, did you have a factory alarm fitted, actually hear it working and own the car from new? I'm not trying to hack anyone off, I just believe I am right but I'll happily admit I am wrong when proven so. :unsure:

I know thats what you said but I tend to disagree with you! :unsure: IF it has an alarm fitted then IMO it WILL have a bonnet switch. I've never known any manufacturer NOT fit one if they have fitted a basic perimiter alarm - there is just no logic. Why fit door switches, a "brain" and a horn just to allow a theif to open the bonnet and disconnect the battery to bypass the whole lot.... it makes NO sence. Therefore IF he has got the factory alarm, which is all he wants to know, then (again IMO) he would have a bonnet switch. A direct quote from TIS: How would it know if the bonnet (hood lol) was closed if it didn't have a switch fitted? Maybe alhambras are different but I am 99% certain his galaxy will have one if he has the alarm fitted.