Mirez

It would be cheaper to just buy a load cover! That said the factory tinting is applied when the glass is being manufactured, ie its not a stick on film but embedded into the glass. Therefore you can add a "first" layer of tint direct onto it to darken it down yet further.

Lock it from outside so you cant open the doors from inside and then pop the bonnet.

When I was searching for one I asked myself the same thing, did an ebay search of the cheapest Mk2 diesels that had completed and then looked at all of the mileages they had. The majority had between 100 and 150K on them (and still working) but I saw one at 174, one at 210 and one at 305K!!!!! The vw diesel is renowned for being pretty reliable IF well maintained - I think the rest of the car will disintigrate well before a well maintained derv engine.

B pillar is the one between front seats and middle seats, there will be two ultrasonic sensors behind grills if you have them. You dont need a keypad as its automatically activated with the central locking.

I would go with seatkid, No1 rule of alarms - there is little point in fitting if its not done extreamly well. The main reason not to fit yourself is that without the correct knowledge you could very easily damage the wiring loom within your car and reder it useless. The wiring colours can differ from model to model, year to year so its not as easy as just saying connect that one to the yellow one. There will also be a multitude of the same colour wires in the area and you'll need to volt meter probing to test which one is correct - something that can also be dangerous with an airbag system. You need a volt meter and a wiring diagram for your cars year to start. Don't get me wrong, I am all in favour of anyone who wants to do something themselves and had the question been that you were stuck on one connection and needed help then fair enough, but your asking for all which is just too impractical to give. A clean connection is any that makes a GOOD connection, ie spliced and soldered not scotchlocked!

The only diesel the haynes covers I believe is the older one, none of the PD engines but then I could be mistaken there. There are some similarites but a fair few differences. I have only ever had the complete version of TIS, which covers all models. I need to update as I dont have the latest so I dont have the Mk3 but the Mk2 is covered well - just avoid ebay as there are lots of stories on there about half CD's and data missing :wacko:

No there was no recoding of the imobiliser required, just this speedo issue which is still ongoing at the moment :wacko:

From above, but not at all easy with the battery and tray in situ :wacko:

Yup thats linkage failure, there are two - one for horizontal and one for verticle. Sounds like the horizontal one has popped off the box hence it cant move out of 3rd and 4th - He might be able to resecure it for the journey home.

Nope Not one along the lines of a haynes Mainly trim related, the engines and most components were largely the same with the exception of the diesel doh! Find somone nice with a copy of TIS (thats fords own internal system - Technical Information System) which contains assembly removal, installation and wiring diagrams and get a copy :wacko: Oh and welcome! :)

Thankyou! Now to figure out why its doing this then :lol:

Ahh with you, it probably would come with one but getting one would probably be so much hassle it simply wouldn't be worth it. Soldering to the PCB would be easy - how would you attach at the LCD end? :lol:

I doubt very much that the cable is actually U/S. I think its simply a case of poor contact with the LCD the Drive PCB or both. High ambient temperatures are especially bad for this type of joint as the contact glue weakens causing the cable to lift - it would only need to move a tiny amount for the contact to break and thus the screen to begin to fail, as the teperature cools the glue contracts slightly recreating the contact...

After a little wiring job yesterday I needed to wait for the car to turn off all its circuits so locked her (with me inside) and set about waiting - which is very very boring. However I came across this... now I must say it was very handy but is this good design or bad? lol :lol:

I retrofitted the Mk1 digital clock back into my Mk2 yesterday, quick question regarding illumination though as I can't remember... Is the clock illuminated at all times, and only controlled by the dimmer when the lights are on? Thats the way its working, the lamp remains illuminated even with the ignition off up until the point the car turns off all the active circuits (12mins after car locked). Now I dont remember if my Mk1 did that or not, the wiring is certainly very funny as the illumination feed is the same one that feeds the analogue clock and the analogue clock only illuminates with the lighting circuit. Therefore it must be something that the Mk1 clock is doing, its just if its supposed to or not! :lol:

I can't say I've fixed a faded display because of this, I have fixed missing lines on the RH side because of this though - poor contact instead of no contact could conceivable cause faded lines instead. I am an electronics engineer by trade and my experience would lead me to be about 90% certain that this connection is the cause of most display issues :lol: If you have a photo of the faded display I would love to take a look! B)

And because I happen to be disecting one at the moment, some photos: This is the cable end that attaches to the LCD board, apply foam stip horizontally accross the blue section of tape: And this is the other end of that cable where it attaches to the driver PCB. You can see the contacts are far more evident and that on this cluster the cable is lifting on both ends. You cant use foam so easily here as when its reasembled the only bit behind it is the plastic cluster and its sloping :lol: I would apply some strong tape, like ducktape, over the existing cable to help keep it stuck down - you may then be able to wedge some foam or cardboard in for additional pressure That should fix your cluster issues!

If you take the cluster apart you will find the display is driven from the driver PCB via a ribbon cable - this cable is stuck to the display using contact glue. Its used because its cheaper then using a proper mechanical connector - sadly its prone to heat and moisure (two things high in a car duh!) making it less efective over time, the result is that the cable lifts and breaks the contacts between some of the circuits, hence the display fading in certain areas. There are only a few solutions, the first is to reglue it - tricky as it is a high density cable and therefore needs to be aligned pracisely on the display board - this is made harder by the fact the contacts are opaque on a glass surface and there are no alignment marks. The slightest bit of mank under there will also stop it making a circuit so it needs to be clinically clean. The second and probably better option if you still have a semi working display is to use some foam strip on the end of the ribbon cable. Enough so that when the cluster is reasembled the foam is compressed between the displays facia and puts pressure on the ribbon cable to recontact.

Coil pack breaking up, search for "coil pack" and you should find some similar posts :lol:

Do you have some pictures of the connectors in question? You probably have an ISO set and a Ford set of which you can buy adaptors to suit but if you can post pictures up then I'll tell you for certain what you have...

The red is a permanent supply, the orange is controller fed. I take it you have the proper visteon DVD player? The contoller talks to it so unless you have it wont accept any generic dvd player in there. The DVD player also needs to be connected to the DVD in and not the VHS in - under the switch panel (between the seats) sits the controller which has another input bank for the DVD player, the wiring is slightly different to VHS player which is probably why you are getting some noise - the good news is that you can buy just that bit of cabling, mine came with it but i think the part is: YM2J 3650 CA but best check, the downside is that its designed to fit below the switch panel so its short :wacko:

and you just happen to have these links because?.... :wacko:

Stick on wood will look exactly like stuck on plastic trying to look like wood. Avoid and get the genuine stuff it may still be plastic but it wont look like its been stuck on!

Anyone able to offer advice on recoding a newe instrument cluster? I bought an 05 panel to replace mine (to fix the wrong door open warnings) - I matched it from a diesel 115 manual but the speedo still reads incorrectly :lol: Everything else works normally except cruise which I assume is down to the fact that the speedo is incorrect. It basically massively overreads - at 60 its showing 110 lol. I've matched the old and new codes for software coding - 13401, and workshop codes 21 but without luck. Reading various forums the last digit is called the "impuse multiplier" but the new cluster will only take 0 or 1 - neither of which have an effect. I belive I need to adapt one of the settings elsewhere but can't find the exact one? Any help greatly appreciated!

a misfire is when one of the cylinders fails to properly fire. In a normal sequence the engine would put fuel and air into each cylinder in a set pattern and then ignite it by creating a spark (with the sparkplugs) a misfire occurs when either the fuel, air or spark is missing or there is not enough of it.