Mirez

Just to clarify that is indeed the multichanger lead - if its not being used and you can be bothered to remove it they go for reasonable money! :)

Again thanks for the replies, but it was doing it on the original wheels and tyres - I therefore (and because they were crappy) replaced the wheels and tyres together for brand new items. They have done less the 600 miles and the problem remained immediately. I will investigate the brakes a little more though, its discs all around which I may look at next - again they are all reasonably new, it had new discs and pads all around for the MoT just before we bought it and that was just 3000 miles ago but something could have gone wrong during that time. I do intend to replace the discs with these: http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/pro...l?product=52811 but having spent so much on front end components just recently they'll have to wait a tad longer!!

Thanks all for the replies so far - I've also contemplated a clutch/flywheel issue but since it remains when the clutch is dipped I kinda ruled that out. As for strut top mounts - there is no play or movement in the strut, watching (as close as I dare!) when the car begins to move in either direction everything looks solid. The vibration is sill felt in reverse by the way! I am now questioning the N/S Inner CV again - although it was replaced as a new assembly I am wondering if its faulty. There is play if (when the wheels are on the ground) I grab the driveshaft and try and rotate it forward and backward, probably 1mm rotational play - the drivers side is locked solid so I believe I may have got a manufacturing defect on the new part! Doh!

Nope - when you first start the car the system checks everything is present and thats it - stage 2 of the test is done with the vehicle in motion at about 15mph (If you drive with everything else turned off you may hear it). At this stage it checks the pump for operation (the bit you'll hear) and confirms all 4 road sensors are active and reading the same. If all that checks then the ABS is enabled for the rest of the journey unless a fault occurs. If it fails stage 2 then the LED is illuminated and the system will not activate for the rest of the journey. A broken ring or sensor would fail stage 2 and therefore you would never have ABS until fixed. I suspect the "dodgy" soldering is for the bleeper - the LED's are "managed" for both ABS and SRS systems and if they fail to illuminate when requested then the cluster will bleep instead.

Ok this is trying my patience now, Mk2 TDI 120k 2001 I have vibration. It started by being felt through the steering wheel at 50mph+ up to 100 which is where I stoped accelerating as it shows no sign of disapearing. Its noticeably worse when accelerating. So far: Wheels/tyres were replaced and it remained. Drop Links and track rod ends replaced, tracked and still remains. Lower arm's complete and lower balljoint all changed, retracked. Vibration now only felt in floorplan, wheel no longer juddering. Driveshafts replaced as assemblies (Inc inner and outer CV's) - Vibration still in floorplan and is now back in steering wheel and noticeably worse when accelerating from low speed (ie 2nd gear) Now I'm getting seriously hacked off with this, there isn't that much left to change on the front! Gearbox sounds fine with no unusual noises, also when its felt through the floorplan dropping the clutch has little or no effect which, to me, rules out gearbox/engine. I've checked the engine and gearbox mounts which visually seem fine, there isn't any decenable movement when load is applied. There are no unusual noises and no "slop" in takeup - can anyone advise on ANYTHING thats left to do? I'm having it tracked AGAIN :unsure: tommorow as I had to disturb the lower arm to remove the nearsidde driveshaft so I intend to get the wheels checked for balancing for the 3rd time. I just don't really know where to go from here - bearings are the only thing left that I can think of but I can't see these being the culprits as there is no noise when pushed hard into corners or heavy breaking - there is no vibration on breaking either for that matter. Anyone ANY suggestions?

Thinking about this are you sure its a Mk3? Its a very early one if it is as they were only released on the end of the X reg's - if it is then its almost certainly going to have a TDDI engine so belts - changed every 80K.

TD's have belts TDDI's have belts TDCI's have chains From what I remember anyway! :wacko:

I had exactly the same issue - took it for a 40 minute drive and drove it like my company car.... its not it since :wacko:

Correct, the whole point is that you can remove your foot and the car will maintain the speed regardless! There is no automated braking when CC is active, it can speed up but can only naturally slow down so steep declines will probably need to be managed manually. Inclines should be dealt with automatically up to the limitation of the selected gear :wacko: Depressing the buttons should accelerate you reasonably briskly, not quite full throttle but still quickly - decelerating, as above, will take as long as it takes for the car to naturally loose its momentum. You can also accelerate manually and then hit the set button to keep the new speed, if you dont press set then the car will naturally slow back down the previously stored speed - usefull for overtaking!

1) Start car. 2) Set CC switch (on top of stalk) to ON 3) Achieve a speed of at least 25mph 4) Press the SET button 5) CC should hold car at set speed unless you press the clutch, brake or move the switch to cancel. 6) CC should speed up if SET is held 7) CC should slow down if RESUME is held. 6/7 possibly vice versa :)

Hey, Ford Dealers sell the handbook at around

Well I would do it for you, but you are a little far away! At 200K a fair bit will be worn by now, injectors being one of them - Clutch being another. If injectors are suspected then you could attempt a diesel additive in the next tank of fuel but I would be thinking about replacing the injectors as a set from a scrapyard car, you could buy new but on a car which is likely to need other bits soon its probably better to keep the cost down. That said before getting new injectors I'd be checking the wiring continuity for the injector itself. I'm concerned about how he's claiming the MAF is ok? If its not been diagnosed then exactly how is this assumption made? A faulty MAF can lead to all manor off vehicle issues so I would again replace that if considered suspect. From past experiences always go with genuine vehicle sensors, patent ones tend to either cause more problems in the long run or only last a short period - again a scrapyard one could be used, probably about

The wipers are almost seized. Its a very common issue which will require a strip down of the wiper linkage and proper greasing ASAP - the longer its left the greater the chance of needing replacement parts which are expensive. The reason they stop working is the motor detects overcurrent (basically it sees it needs too much power to turn the wipers) and shuts off, the same as if the wipers had collided mid sweep - therefore protecting the motor from immediate damage. If the linkage isn't free'd up quickly then there is still a chance of motor burn out so dont delay. I believe there are instruction in the FAQ for this.

You lot need to take your share more instead of sending it all to me! So far this week I have: 19 from Lloyds TSB 36 from Halifax 4 from RBS 1 from Yorkshire Bank (who the hell are they?) and.... wait for it... 102 from PayPal. All directed to junk automatically but it does make me chuckle!

Copied disks are hard to do but possible and shouldn't cause any damage if done correctly. Ebay is the best bet if you want a cheap one. The changers are either made by Visteon or Phillips. If you show me a pic of it (with the door closed) I should be able to tell you who and again ebay will be the best option.

Lemon Juice? Oh dear god no! :) Something on that drivebelt system is causing the issue - whichever garage said they couldn't adjust anything AVOID as a new slipping belt simply eliminates the belt but there are MANY other things on that system that should have been checked at that time. Unfortunatey though most things on there are expensive when they go wrong, so be prepared but uncoupling the belt and attempting to turn each pulley seperately should show the culprit reasonably easily.

Because the central locking is activated from the outside its also double locked the car which disengages all the internal handles. The idea is because you have locked the car from the outside it assumes there isn't anyone inside and disengages the handles to stop thiefs shattering the window and then opening the door from the inside. If you unlock using the passenger door lock barrel you should be fine.

Precisely that - if its a new belt with new tensioner then its not turning one of the pulleys correctly. This will mean that whatever it is isn't working correctly which may cause all manor of additional problems not to mention possible heat build up and certainly wear to your new belt. Since you seem to have an electrical issue I'd be very inclined to suspect its the altenator on the way out, but start with the belt and go from there.

As above check the alternator is charging correctly - expect 14 volts with the engine running, 11.5 to 12 with it off. Without a tray could also be spray on the drive belt makng it slip and not charge correctly although I would expect squeal if that were the case. There are more possibilities though but alternator seems most likely.

Preceisely that, I certainly wasn't trying to upset anyone BTW its just something I've noticed having spent so much time on another forum. I can fully understand the reasons, be it because of family commitments or whatever I just wanted to defend the Galaxy a little from what is potentially a biased view and shed some light onto why so many feel unhappy with it when, perhaps, they are actually just Peed off at the dealer service/costs. :angry2:

My Mk1 was a fantastic car, didn't have anything go wrong in the year and a bit of ownership. The Mk2's got aircon trouble and needs its driveshafts/CV's changed. Its also needed the wiper mechanism overhauled but nothing other then that so far. Please dont take offence to this as none is intended to anyone but I do find it interesting though, by comparison (as admin of the mondeo forums) that the general population on here seem to have an advesity to spending time and/or money on maintenance by relation. There are loads of posts about aircon getting warmer and wipers slowing down but very few take action at that point, most seem to say "I'll wait" and then grumble 2 months down the line about the fact its broken compleatly and costs 5x as much to fix. There also seems to be far few DIY'ers on this site by comparison which is probably also to do with it, I'm used to "it cost

Thought I was in the sticky stuff for a moment there! lol :angry2:

Yup thats the data connector the nav unit, you should also have a full size FIS as it sends the signals up to that, there should be another connector in the hole though for the nav antenna.

Again though is that is that tried and tested fact or just speculation? I've plugged mine in and got revs, full FIS door open display, fuel and volts. I needed the car for the weekend so put the original cluster back without testing further but eaerly indications would suggest they work fine.

I had to experiment, went from 28, to 32 to 36 and now 38 - seems happy up that high, probably add another 2 for full load