Mirez

Depends what part of the display you are refering? The red LED part in the middle should go off with the ignition, the LCD odometer varies by year and cluster type but LCD's use such a piffling amount of current it could stay on for years without causing a problem. The afterrun pump sounds very much like your problem, it should run continuously when the engine is running and stay on after switch off for around 1min 30. (Again time varies by year and build). It has two functions, one to pump coolant to the back of the car for the rear heater and aux heater and two, to prevent hot spots forming after the engine is switched off. If it stays on for longer then 5 minutes you have a problem and the cause of your flat battery as that pump will draw quite a current. Its nothing more then a pump though so its the pumps controller thats at fauly - There are some threads on here relating to it sticking on so have a read of them.

A failing MAF will cause all kind of mixture issues and the fact that it keeps popping in there might not just be by chance, the oxygen/HEGO sensor is in the exhaust system and because of the harsh life they have they do fail over time. Those two sensors being defective could easily be the cause of your mixture error and the poor running. I'd be looking at a replacement MAF to start - the codes arn't that random to make me think its a grounding issue, more a couple of sensors on the way out.

lower ball joints would give this kind or noise, as would perished bushes on the arms.

Ahhh ic, a lot of info here: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Buyin...hicle/index.htm

Why would you want to?? LHD cars on RHD roads are more likely to be involved in an accident - and you'll find your insurance will be higher to insure a LHD car. I could understand a rare sports car or classic but Its not like there is a shortage of Galaxies over here or am I missing something?

Whats the condition of the aux belt? I believe they'll have removed that to change the timing belt so its possible if its old its been stretched a little upon removing and refitting. If its slipping it won't drive the alternator properly and poor charging will occur, when the engines not under load (ie at idle) it may not slip which is why everything will look ok on a meter. Put the meter on the battery and get someone to rev the car - measure the readings at 2K, 3K and 4K rpm. The regulator should hold the voltage at a reasonably stable voltage of around 14V. If it reduces as the car revs up then the alternators not being driven properly and either the belt, tensioner or alternator has got trouble. If the voltage rises significantly as the car revs up then the regulators not working properly and you'll be killing the battery with an over-voltage.

As above sharan or alhambra only although I suspect probably on some galaxys in the EU territories as the wiring schematics are part of the Ford technical bumph. Luckily the alhambra/sharan mirrors fit just fine so can be sourced reasonably easily. I think they only came as an option on the VW models as the alhambras seem to have far more fitted. Wiring is the only tricky bit as obviously the Galaxy hasn't got anything there for them, the+ is that the wiring for the heating and movement remains the same so you don't need to fiddle with that but you will need to run two wires into each door. The main connector into the door hasn't got and spare pins, if you are good with electronics you can add them manually or thread the wires through the pin holes - the disadvantage of that is that if you ever need to remove the door you wont be able to just undo the connector...

Anyone got a set knocking about? Dont care about condition its so I can remove the chrome ones from mine before I part ex it so even if i need to send them back to you after its not a problem :lol:

No worries, I'm going to a few scrappies over the next couple of days so will keep an eye out.

Gregers are they after one specifically for a galaxy? I have a golf estate one they are welcome to have for the cost of postage.

Lol, trouble is when they are working they are fantastic cars and at least the bits that fail tend to be ancillaries and not engine related (might be talking to the wrong guy there though!) And for the record everything thats ever broken on this one has had a VW badge on it....

Pics I can do: No interior ones as it was Sunday when I took these - still dont know the exact colour - its apparently Charcoal Green Metallic.... new one on me!

Havn't been looking to change the Gal but happened accross a cracker and had to have it. At a main dealer as well, its on an 03 but with just 42K on it - ex FMC vehicle and so has every conceivable extra fitted including ESP, Xenon headlights, Climate and a Sunroof. Traded mine in for

Happy to do it for you, next week sucks for me though - maybe one evening?

Charcoal Green Metallic anyone got a gal in that colour with a few photos I can take a butchers at?

Always good to have pictures, Especially when you came out quite well lol ;)

Glad it survived but suprised you even felt it ;) Matiz Gross Weight is only 853Kg where the Galaxy is almost 3 times that ;) How easy was it to fit the DMF by the way?

The front ones wouldn't. You normally need two inputs to trigger activation and these are given by sensors - one in the crash zone and one (as insider said) measuring velocity - in a "normal" head-on impact the crash sensor activates and sends its signal to the controller, the controller will then examine the rate of deceleration and if significant will activate one or more airbags. Typically a front airbag will only be deployed in a front impact of up to 30 degrees from dead ahead. Without the front crash sensor activating (ie rear collision which hasn't pushed the car into anything else) the front airbags should not deploy. Why'd you ask?

You can't make the assumption they are all working just because you get a voltage on the signal line as you don't know what you are measuring there. If its an analogue signal it could be putting a "dead" signal out in the low Hz which would show as a voltage, and a "healthy" signal of faster Hz would still show a voltage of similar reading. Without knowing exactly what the sensor sends, measuring a voltage from it is almost irrelevent. I wouldn't ignore the "check for tick" suggestion as that will tell if the sensor is actually doing anything, VagCom would tell you if you have a sensor gone though, and more importantly it would tell you which one(s). That said my own reasoning would probably lead to to conclude the same as you that the controller is defective.

The normal question "Is there a way to tell what engine is in?" but with reference to the alhambra? I take it they did a 130 and 150 alhambra?