Mirez

Engine Mount / Roll Restrictor - whilst there are technical differences its obvious your mechanics talking about the same part as seatkid.

Everyone's perception will be different, the only way you'll know if its "normal" or not is to take a couple more out for a test drive - preferably from the same dealer so its on the same roads.

The overrun pump works all the time whilst the engine is running and runs for about 2 minutes after the engine is switchd off. You don't even need to start the engine to get it to work - simply put the ignition on and wait about 15 seconds - It should be very evident if its working as it'll be a humming noise and you'll easily feel it if the engines not running. Tapping it and wiggling it to get it to work would indicate that the brushes on the motor have worn out and either they or it needs to be replaced. That alone however won't cause your trouble, the pump is a secondary unit and could technically be compeatly dead without any obvious side effects in normal conditions (I'm sure there are a fair few on here that are! :lol: ) I wouldn't be overly concerned at this point with head gasket failure, It certainly sounds far more like an air lock - whilst a blown gasket could cause some of your symptoms it wouldn't cause you to loose cabin heating which is nearly always an air lock or blockage. Simple things first, what you topping it up with? If you have nearly all water in the system and little coolent that won't be helping. First and most important thing to do would be a system drain and refill - set the cabin heater to hot then refill slowly - a trickle of water from a hose into the tank is preferable to filling it and letting it drain each time as it allows air to escape. Vaccum pumping is a method used for air locks but I can't say I've heard of it in use on vehicles. Its been in use on central heating systems for some time but IMO the system isn't large enough to warrent such an approach.

Not at all true. Heated seats with the cloth trim is quite common and you can have leather without the heating option.

I have the panel on the inside of the tailgate, whole thing complete with removable panels for fog light access. In Flannel Grey and reasonable condition. Few light scuffs and two lines where the tailgate was closed on a bedframe. Collection highly preferable due to the size of the thing - low offers accepted, I just need it gone.

Short to B+ means its seeing 12V when expecting a signal so you either have a wiring fault or the MAF itself is defective. Try leaving it unplugged, resetting the code and then starting the car. If the fault comes back again immediately then the wiring is defective or damaged. If not then you have a faulty MAF.

Its clipped, nothing more then that. The layers are: The mirror glass which is stuck to an electrical heating pad, which in turn is stuck to a plastic backing plate which clips to the motor assembly - its the plate you need to prise from the motor assembly. If its not damaged (hard to damage them really) then you'll just need the mirror and some patience to clean the mirrors glue off but seperating the heating pad from the mirror isn't that fun and rarely sticks back onto another mirror easily so you might want to see if you can get one that comes with the pad already stuck. Most vehicle mirrors are slightly convex as it allows for a greater field of vision from it - I would assume the galaxy is no different.

well gregers as Im new to this is this tune up ur talking about just to floor it if yes have tried it but no joy.Is the maf a sensor on air intake ? A guy told me if i dont let car idle for while after driving it could draw up oil into air intake and choke up sensor. You want the engine oil nice and warm and then the idea is to work/heat the turbo more then normal and therefore burn off excess carbon sooting up the vanes. You need to work the car quite hard by taking it near the red line a number of times, ideally holding it up there for a few seconds. Repeat this 4 or 5 times - you may notice some smoke from the exhaust which is normal as its the crud thats stuck on your vanes! It'll be even better to do it on a long run where the car can get to operating temperature and stay there for a prolonged period - motorway speeds would be best as you can leave it in 4th for a short while to maintain the revs without overly stressing the car. Remember you need to do all this whilst the car is in normal operating mode and not in limp home mode, so if it enters LHM whilst you're doing it you need to restart the car and then carry on. The MAF is the first sensor on the air intake after the airbox - it's not possible to draw oil onto that sensor as its not on the recirc path - I can't overly think what your guy is refering to - its wise to let the car idle for a short while after a long journey or after 'spirited' driving to allow the oil around the turbo to circulate and you should NEVER turn a turbo engine off with the revs at anything but idle speed.

I've not seen a guide anywhere but its not that tricky a job. The trackrod end is the easy one, the bush is harder as requires a press to get the old bush out and the new one in. You'll probably find it a damn site easier to replace the whole lower arm rather then just the bush as that is simpler and can be done without the press. Tools wise you'll have to buy a balljoint splitter of good size to pop the trackrod end and the lower balljoint from the A frame but that should be the only "special" tool you'll need. A decent socket and spanner set will be a must and allen keys if you want to seperate the balljoint from the hub rather then the A frame if you are replacing the balljoint at the same time. The A frame replacement is a case of splitting the lower balljoint from the hub or frame (as above) undoing the two bolts which hold the frame to the chassis and then withdraw the frame as an assembly. Whilst its more work you'll find it easier to do if you undo the trackrod end (which you need to do anyway) and undo the driveshaft bolt (loosen to the end but dont remove the bolt) which holds it to the hub - this'll allow the hub to move outwards by up to 4cm which'll greatly ease the frame replacement. Trackrod end removal is a case of undoing the locking nut where the rodend joins the rod. Split the joint from the hub and then unscrew the rodend whilst holding the rod with a spanner. Will be rusty and stiff but shouldn't give that much trouble - simply replace (you might want to grease the rod before screwing the new one in) and then reattach to the hub. You'll have to have the car tracked afterwards as both jobs will knock the tracking for six. Good luck! :blink:

Do some searches for "Sticking turbo", "Limp Home Mode" and "Turbo vanes" - all should be explained :angry: ... or if you can't be bothered, warm her up well and then give it a bit of a thrashing. :angry2:

With seats and without?

I didn't change mine on the 2.3 but the td was tough - I seem to recall using a socket to hold it open aswell but on its side as that tensioner needs to open a long way

Excuse me if I'm being rude, but you are moving the tensioner before trying to put the belt on yeah?? If not thats your problem, the place its naturally at now with no belt on is where its designed to try and get to with a socking big spring - you need to de-tension it so you can slip the belt on which will involve either the "special tool" or some improvisation as its under a lot of pressure. Also H&S warning - mind your fingers!! :angry2:

No heat at all from the rear blower either? If not then its not a sticking flap as that would be unlikely to effect both units. Could still be a sensor issue, the climate unit shouldn't allow much in the way of fan speed whilst it "thinks" the coolent temperature is low. However no heating from front AND rear would indicate something else, either a lack of coolent circulation or a blockage. Is the temp gauge of the car moving up?

I would also be suprised if you can get just the button - VW and Seat won't be able to help though, neither the alhambra or sharan have the upper glovebox's its purely a ford thing.

Would check the lower ball joints for play, hard to do without seperating it from the arm though.

Yup mine are a three pin line as well so I'd be suprised if yours arn't :lol:

What condition are the lower ball joints in?

Jamesy, I bought both front shafts from a company on ebay (which seems to now trade by many different names - note the locations!) they mullered themselves after just a few hundred miles and getting them to replace them was a nightmare. The new ones when they finally arrived did exactly the same thing and it took some legal ramblings to finally get them to refund. Genuine ford parts now on and its been as good as gold since so think twice and avoid at all cost the ebay sellers! Theres also the hassle of physically changing them repeatedly which is time consuming.

Just be carefull with the lower metal clips and your bumper when you slide the headlight forward or put it back in - its extreamly easy to scratch it!

Wow huge difference mate, think they actually suit the Mk1 a little better! Glad you are pleased :rolleyes: