Mirez

If the ECU "thinks" you have the brake on it will limit the engine, which is what you are experiencing. I would suggest the brake switch wasn't repaired correctly

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...0230029393& This companys selling off brandnew headlamps with xenon bulb (no ballest mind) but for

Which is correct, is definately the same heater and not an air heater.

I don't know your wife no :D but its highly unlikely to have damaged anything else, the weakness is the joint and thats whats failed. I've not had the problem myself so I can't say whats going to be changed for the

As above really it would be a bad idea to directly link - on modern cars its far more likely to be a logic signal at the brake switch and not the actual feed so taking a wire to the brakelights from there could, potentially, cause significant damage to the controller. If the brake lights come on when you put the lights on then thats an obvious short, and one that could happily cause a dimming with the additional current required. I didn't think P reg cars had the third brake light? Is that aftermarket? Start there if it is! If not then you'll need to start measuring voltages and resistances as Scorpiorefugee suggests, check the brake pedal switch first. It will probably be taken to ground when the switch is depressed so check in the resistance of both wires with and without the switch activated. (if its a high circuit it'll need 12V on one side when not depressed and 12V on both wires when activated) Next I would remove the brake bulbs and fuse and measure reistance on both sides. One should be low and one should be high, if both are low then the short is on that wire. Disconnect the wiring at the tailgate entry and find the wire in that connector. Measure again. If it remains low the problem is in the tailgate wiring if its now high then its probably in the vehicle - with the tailgate loom disconnected measure continuity across all the other wires - any that show could be possible shorts in the tailgate loom so identify what they control and repeat. Once you've exhausted the tailgate loom you can move on to disconnecting clusters and headlights but I'd be suspicious of the tailgate wiring as it enters as so many seem to fail at that point.

Hi Stuart, its something I'd like to do myself. The control panel fits in the overhead console on the Mk2 and replaces the alarm sensors (which begs the question where they go but anyway) - its not the same as the panel shown in the link as thats a Mk1. The wiring seems reasonably simple, its a seperate loom entirely for the timed heater so it would need to be hardwired into a car that wasn't fitted with it as standard. The aux battery sits below the passenger seat and is charged via the alternator the same as the main battery. It powers the diesel pump, control panel, diesel heater and the electric water pump "run-on pump". It uses a number of relays of which I've not found all their uses but the main one seems to be to power the water pump and give back control of it to the ECU when the main engine is started. If I can get hold of the overhead controller then I'd give it a go as I believe the benefits are quite large, but the controller is a little over

Try this link: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?act=Search And then, when you realise I'm being cheeky try this: :D http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...&hl=splines

Anyone got a center console for a Mk2 Galaxy knocking about? Its the one that houses the DVD player and controller and surrounds the handbrake. Not that bothered on condition - Cheers!

That'll be half your problem then, the fiesta diesel (unless its the 1.8 endura) has a crank rating of 500amp with 62 amp hours, the galaxy is 640amp with 71ah (800amp and 100ah pre 2000) so it'll not be able to deliver the maximum current required and will flatten quicker. 5 to 6 years old is the other half of your problem. Get a new one!

Sounds more like the battery has reached the end of life. How old is it?

Suprised nobody wants this, its the fix for a very common problem - heyho, off to ebay :wacko:

If you mean the genuine ford ones then forget it, you'll need the front and rear level sensors, the headlights, the ballasts and then wire it all in Finally you'd need to recode the gateway module so it knows it has the xenon lights else it'll just shut them down each time you turn them on as the initial current draw it much higher then a halogen bulb and it interprets that as a short circuit of a halogen bulb. If you mean the "xenon" replacement bulbs halfords and the like sell, well..... 55 watts is 55 watts - they aren

hope someone knows the answer to this i have the same problem. The controller is under the front passenger seat and contains the front speaker, the rear speaker is behind the rear light cluster If you unplug one sensor the system will indeed go to a fault state and won't work at all Wiring is +12V, Ground and Signal You can't mimic the signal easily as its a square wave so would need a signal generator - you would probably kill the controller popping 12V down the signal line! :rolleyes: Easiest way is to find someone with VagCom who can simply plug in and tell you exactly which sensor is causing the problem, else the old listen for a ticking noise test - though that'll only tell you if the sensor is (or isn't) sending out its ultrasonic pulses, not if its reporting back correctly.

If its bubbling and overflowing from the tank thats a sure sign of pressurisation which is nearly always caused by head gasket failure allowing the cylinder gases to escape into the coolent system. As a result the coolent system is pressurised resulting in it overflowing but not overheating (well until its all come out) :rolleyes:

As title, a GENUINE vw receiver dryer complete with new style sealing cap (the bit that always fails) for Mk2's. Bought to repair the A/C but since its been done on warranty (phew!) its no longer needed. Still fully sealed and boxed - as you would buy from the main dealer. Open to sensible offers.

Do you have vents in the roof above each of the rear seats?

Not quite :lol: Since everything works ok when warm then measuring the resistance value of the sensor across the range would be usefull in finding a suitable value resistor in which to bypass the sensor with as per the original request. I would strongly recommend against directly shorting any sensor! Whilst you are right that a well designed ECU will cope, we dont know how well designd this one is! You are also making the assumption that its "just" a simple analogue sensor and that there isn't more to it! :16:

Sounds electrical indeed, I would be suprised if the intake sensor would cause that much trouble though, the adjustment levels the ECU can make arn't really that great and I *think* it cross references this signal with that from the MAF. Have you tried disconecting both the IAT and MAF sensors in turn when its doing it? The ECU should use a "fixed reference value" as soon as it sees the signal isn't present so you should be able to rule both sensors out reasonably easy. I would be looking at the coil packs myself - I have had them before where they begin to fail internally which seems to show up more when cold. Does it feel like its missing?

Is this an air sensor? If so then an easier way would be to take it off the car and measure the resistance with a multimeter - you can then use a hairdryer to simulate warmer air passing over it and measure the resistance again. I wouldn't be suprised if the resistance drops with temperature so you would need a high value resistor for your bridge but if you measure a destinct change in values then its unlikely to be at fault.

Depends on your experience / aptitude but I've taken the seats apart before and its not that difficult. You'll need some meaty pliers to remove the pigtail rings which hold the cover on and some good quality strong cable ties to resecure it unless you are able to reuse them (unlikely). Once the base cover is off then you could either replace the foam base panel with a new one from Ford or pack it out with additional foam. The problem with the latter is that you'll have to stop it moving about by glueing it to the original base and that could give you further problems if you get it wrong.

Not a chance mate, visteon use their own connectors. There are at least 2 versions of the DVD player though, and later ones were linked to a "controller assembly" and came with a keycode just like the radios. Its highly probably you have the wrong DVD player for the system you have in the car - it should just connect direct into the media controller

You take some pictures of a gearbox out of a car that no-one specifically asked you to take and then get all huffy that some mysterious body hasn't said thanks? Geez man, you need to get some perspective on life! :ph34r:

So what was the cause of the vibration or was it precautionary that you wanted the rings? Where'd you get the 19's from and any chance of a pic? ;)

Is this randomly or just in the mornings? My focus used to do the same thing, took quite a few trips to dealers and phone calls before it was finally concluded that its normal behaviour. I did see the paperwork from ford germany confirming the point - its apparently to do with loading the diesel engine to get it to temperature quicker. Strange but true, that said it only did it when started from cold in low temperatures or very rarely if there was a sudden temperature drop. It is linked to the climate system though so the problems you have with that could also be related. Anti-trap feature activated? There should be details in the handbook on how to reset this - it would also need resetting if they have disconnect the battery at some point.