Mirez

Ok well despite them claiming they "are happy we did nothing wrong" they are going to replace the pipe as a "goodwill" gesture, which to me reads we did f*** up and want to fix it on the cheap. Would you let them replace the pipe? I don't overly want them anywhere near the aircon system now and having seen how involved replacing that pipe looks I certainly don't trust them. Has anyone got the pipe diameter handy? (The pipe in question is the rear pipe as it exits the compressor which go's up to the front left of the engine bay to a valve and come form of chamber) Also likelyhood of compressor failure? Anyway to tell if its screwed without gas in the system?

I'm guessing either the limit is set to high or its yet another componenet of dubious vw quality!

Cheers for the replies guys. I went back today and made my points - it was a reasonable conversation although he didn't admit anything and claims to have only put 750g in.... they want the car to examine it on thursday which I think I better let them do. Just so I'm clear though, what exactly is likely to have happened? Whilst I suspect it should have seen the high pressure and stopped the system I don't think it did. :( So... The compressor has tried to compress what exactly? A liquid I'm guessing but what? Refrigerant? Oil? Since liquid can't be compressed its mullered itself and put high pressure out? The exit pipe has then blown as a result? Is anything else likely to be damaged? Seals? Condenser? Evaporator? Cheers all :ph34r: Oh one more question, is it really likely to have popped through a aluminium pipe or it is more likely to be coming from the joint and I just cant see it properly?

Anyone know how the charging machines work? I had a slow leak on the galaxy (condenser dryer) which I've finally fixed after 3 months of no use, took it to kwikfit (yes I know I'm an idiot) for recharging. He set it going and all was well, midway though when I asked how things were going he said it hadn't detected a leak - so far so good, left the place with the car very jerky (ie the compressor working hard) but assumed it would get better as it hadn't been used in a while, aircon better then ever before. My problem is the next day the compressor refused to engage yet no low pressure fault codes were stored and today (2 days later) its got a noticeable leak from the pipe running away from the compressor and its all pissed out again (complete with low pressure code) My concern is that towards the end of the filling process he said I had duel aircon and I had to correct him. I believe the duel system takes 1050 and the single 750 which leads me to my question: Will the machine overcharge if told the wrong thing? I'm of the opinion that its been overfilled making the compressor work out of spec and thats done some nasty damage. Proving that will obviously be a challange but am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?

Quite possibly, but if they are ticking its more likely to be damage to the wiring loom by the connector. Look under the back of the car and check each one for damage. There are 3 wires, a supply, ground and signal wire. If the signal wire is damaged the unit will still tick but no signal will get back to the controller causing you problems.

I had a very similar noise, which occationally also came when going over speed bumps. Turned out to be the lower ball joint.

I believe the purpose is for you to be more visable to oncoming traffic, not for you to see the road!!

Not overly difficult, the official ford way is to remove the steering wheen but its possible to do without. Remove the top of the steering wheel cowel (two screws from below if memory serves) - pop the rubber gaitor off and withdraw. Lower the wheel and fully extend, then remove the two thorx screws on the bottom of the cluster visable through the gap you've just created. The top of the assembly is simply clipped into place - a small allen key can be usefull to slide inbetween the cluster and the dash and then be used as a hook to free the top end. Undo the wiring connectors and it will then fully withdraw and slide out, down and to the left of the steering wheel.

Wouldn't advise a VW or Seat one - they use red illumination not green ^_^

As requested:

or ebay - type "Galaxy breaking" into the search and then ask the sellers questions - there are loads of mk1's on there atm

Correct, the filter is only accessible from the bonnet. As you look at the engine, its under the plastic cover with the ford and TDI badges on. This cover is literally yanked upwards, and then forwards to remove (Mind the grommet around the dipstick) - you'll then see a black plastic cylinder shaped object in front of the engine with a screw cap - remove the cap and the filters in there.

Duh sorry yeah the diesels are indeed in a case = its located under the plastic cover that go's over the engine pull that off and its upright at the front - unscrew the top and remove the old filter, there are two seals that should be replaced at the same time.

thanks for your help, do i need a special tool to remove the oil filter? That'll depend on the previous change and how strong you are :unsure: It should be done up roughly hand tight and then another half turn but some people/garages insist on doing them up as tight as possible which will cause you some issues when getting the old one off. There are tools out there which attach to socket wrenches and either have a belt or chain which grips the old one. Alternatively you can stab the old filter with a screwdriver and then turn it but that will be messy and whilst very unlikely can give you a nasty scenario if you still can't get it off. Most of thats worst case though, I've not come accross one that I couldn't undo by hand in the end but if you are unsure then try and turn it just slightly now, less then 1cm movement - if it moves tighten it back up, you shouldn't loose any oil and will know that you'll be able to remove it easily when the time comes. Some final points if you've never done a change before: 1) Go for a drive first and get the car up to operating temperatures, when you get back leave it to stand for 5/10 minutes and then drain the old oil - you need it to be warm as it'll flow out of the engine better and take more deposits with it but not hot enough that it burns you :ph34r: 2) You should replace the sump plug washer (vw call it a gasket ford some reason) when you refit the plug - they cost pennies but can save the hassle of a leaking sump plug. 3) When fitting the new filter, dip your finger in the old oil and smear some around the rubber seal of the new filter - this aids it to form a good seal and reduces the chances of leaks - don't overtighten. 4) Fill your new oil slowly, don't expect it to take exactly what the book says as the filter won't get any until its been pumped by the engine - rely on the dipstick for accurate measuring. 5) Start the car but don't rev it, the oil light may stay on for a few seconds but should go out within 5 seconds of starting, allow the car to idle for a few minutes before turning off, check the oil level again - you'll probably need to put more in as the filter will now have taken some. Ensure you don't overfill 6) Check the level a couple more times over the next few journeys.

You change the oil filter, the oil cooler is exactly as its name suggests - just a cooler. The filter is the bit that collects the larger particals floating around in the oil and must be changed. Its a very simple job so relax, just take your time you'll be fine.

Good advice there but you can also swap over the connectors on that box. You'll find a label that says "Remove for VCR connection" and under there is a connector thats identical to the DVD one and carries the same signals. The only difference is that instead of the on screen menu saying DVD it'll say VCR instead.

4 Bolts, two at the front - two at the back.

Poor/budget tyres can lead to all kinds of bearing like noises, mainly when turning or braking. We had some awful ones on when we bought the car and I knocked the guy down as I thought a bearing was on the way out - two quality tyres later and its much quieter so as above, check the obvious first!

Seriously? :lol:

It what way not working? Is the option for DVD there?

As above and to clarify, I wasn't suggesting you replace the internal bearings of the alternator - just giving a likely breakdown of the fault. Changing the alternator shouldn't be that tricky - time consuming and a little fiddly but certainly a DIY job.

Brand new genuine VAG part for Mk2 part number 7M3 919 275

The belt is indeed automatic ternsioning but tensioners are very crude devices, simply a large spring and pulley. When they fail you either get no tension as the spring snaps or a lack of tension as the spring weakens over time. Its therefore highly unlikely to be excess tension on the belt - far more likely worn bearings in the alternator causing it to seize or stick.