Mirez

I believe 90Ah is the recommended size, bizzaraly I've literally just got back in from replacing mine as it failed this morning. Got a 100Ah Bosch Silver battery in there now which also replaced a 70Ah and its just started instantly :)

Fuse 12 and 19!AuxHeater.pdf

You wont get anywhere removing the top boxes, its the main box you need to remove.

You need to post the serial number... starts with an M

If all that was working before you swapped the unit then its unlikely to be a number of faults that have suddenly arrived and more likely to be a knackered replacement unit! The red switch is the fuel inertia switch and should be depressed at all times unless you have a big shunt in which case it'll pop up and turn off the fuel pump.

Good! In which case happy birthday! ;)

Should have driven to westbury instead and had your fault codes read! As suggested its a simple test to determine if the blowers at fault - put 12V direct onto the blowers connector. Full speed then its not at fault!

...buy several lottery tickets this week. ;) :D

Yes. ;) You didn't say which side so here's the drivers mirror but the pins are the same for the passenger one its just the colour coding that differs. I've given you the full pin out although the fold option wasn't available in the UK 1, Yellow/Blue - Electric Folding Motor 2, Yellow/Green - Electric Folding Motor Return 3, Grey/Yellow - Electric Fold Status Switch Supply 4, Brown - Heating Element / Status Switch Ground 5, White - Heating Element Supply 6, Blue/Black - Movement Motor (Left/Right) 7, Black/Red - Movement Motor (Up/Down) 8, Brown/Yellow - Movement Motor Common

The only thing I can think of that could cause this would be a low voltage - the voltage must be above 13V for the front screen to switch on and the rear screen will turn off if a low voltage condition occurs. I assume you are running the engine when this occurs (the front screen needs the engine running to turn on) - measure the voltage on the battery terminals with the engine off and on. You should have around 12v with the engine off and around 14.5 with it on.

There will be nothing wrong with the top mounts but its a good get out line for them as the mounts are designed to float which is an unusual design. "The new Avon ZV5 is optimised for use in small cars to large saloons and fast cars" - might be a bad choice of tyre anyway for the gal, are they the reinforced version?

Nope, the galaxy's alarm isn't linked to the radio although most pure ford cars are - the galaxy alarm (and nearly everything else) is VW, and they rightly assume that if a theif has broken the window or damaged the door to get into the car to nick a 10p factory radio then the alarm should have gone off at that point and not when the radios pinched! :)

I would be looking at the "clock spring" - the cylindrical wiring unit thats behind the steering wheel and allows wiring to reach the wheel whilst the wheel can turn freely, it contains wiring for the horn and airbag.

It should be filled from factory for the life of the vehicle. However any car I've owned that has claimed that I've always renewed the oil as a matter of servicing. If anyone's in any doubt as to why - have a read of this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=247983 * I should clarify by saying thats not my post, but every gearbox oil change I've done its looked similar to that! I fully intend to do this galaxy in the next few weeks and I'll almost certainly use the same oil as that post.

thanks for the reply, the two keys i have one unlocks the door but dosent start the car and the other starts the car but dosent lock the door if that makes sence lol, what is the best thing for me to do then? i know u say be perpared to folk out some money so i take it its going to be alot which i cannot afford at the moment , should i have got a remote key with it when i brought the car? i really dont know what to do now y r cars so much headache?? I think back in 98 it depended on the spec level as to if you got a remote key or not - you should have a minimum of two keys though and both should unlock and start the car. I'm still not 100% on the whole two key thing you seem to have going on! I can understand having two keys and one not starting the car but can't understand the "starting" key not unlocking the doors - the only conclusion that I can draw from that is that its had either the ignition barrel or the door locks all changed at some point? You need to have it properly looked at to diagnose if its the key thats not being recognised or if there is a malfunction with the PATs system. With only one working key (albeit not now) you can't programme the system yourself anyway so it would need to go to a dealer - the cost will be circa

Yup a flashing LED indicates a PATS (or immobiliser) problem. It should come on, stay on for 2 to 5 seconds whist running a selftest and then go off. If it then starts flashing its either got an internal fault or it failed to recognise the key thats trying to start the car - normally the latter. Try just the key on its own, ie remove it from any keyrings so there is much less chance of a comms problem Try the second key, however... From your description it sounds like someone has had issues in the past hence why you have different keys to unlock and start the car (just confirm, did I read that right?) it thats the case then be prepared to fork out some money to Ford for reprogramming. You can buy a key from the main dealer no problems and its reasonably cheap as well but then they'll shaft you for the reprogramming costs to get the car's ECU to learn the new key's chip. I'll try not to bore you with the technical details but the basic operation of PATS is like this. The receiver is around the ignition barrel, when you turn the ignition on it emits radio waves which energise a transponder inside the key, This then emits a coded radio signal which the receiver picks up and, if recognised, tells the car's ECU to allow the start to take place. For it to just loose the coding is unusual. The causes are: 1) as seatkid says a lost transponder chip (not really possible with non remote keys) 2) poor communication caused by having multiple car transponder keys on the same keyring 3) a faulty receiver coil not emiting a signal (so the transponder chip has no power to transmit) 4) whilst far more likely, external noise (its been known that when parked very close to some mobile phone masts / police masts for them to disrupt the signal) 5) a faulty PATS controller.

hi mirez , thanks for your input ,but wat is this tsb you refer to ? just to update you ....i thought maybe it could be the egr valve....the outsde had oil over it so i thought i was on to a winner ...alas , the unit is working [ i checked my results on my mates galaxy ] . wfe says im panicing ,but i know somthing is wrong....i dont want to wait untill it blows up ...rather a stitch in time aproch....any suggestions?????? Well as said my TIS was down so I couldn't confirm it at the time, here's the TSB but its for auto's and a slightly earlier build (although that could be when it was built, just not reg'd until 03) TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.53/2002 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 30.05.2002 Section: 307-01B Model: 2000.75 Galaxy with 1.9L TDI engine (85 kW) and AG5 automatic transmission, built from 10.12.2001 to 14.03.2002 (build code 1E to 2S) Markets: All Subject: Noises from the intake system (in particular a charge gurgling) during overrun Summary Should a customer express concern over noises from the intake system (in particular a charge gurgling) during overrun, the probable cause is excessive boost pressure and air swirl in the turbocharger intake tract. To rectify this concern, the powertrain control module (PCM) with software level 1516 should be removed and a PCM with software level 1561 should be installed. The boost pressure and subsequently the air swirl are reduced during overrun with the new software. Parts Required

As above really, but I'm almost of the opinion thats a little too cheap - just ensure you know what you are getting and that its got a warranty! And thats of course after you've had it diagnosed that the turbo is the bit that failed!

I may need to get a bodyguard after this post but: The galaxy A/C isn't that bad! Ok, first let me explain that comment! Hands up all of you that have had the receiver/drier unit changed every two years regardless? Bet the answer is no-one, yet this is where a good 90% of the problems begin. If you dive deep deep into VW's literature, the official servicing work for the A/C system states it should be changed every two years - again, hands up all those that knew or have been told that by a dealer? Humm... Gonna bet thats no-one either. Nearly all these systems fail due to a leak, and in the beginning that leak is nearly always found to be the condenser. However even more specifically, that leak is on the seals which are part of the receiver drier cap that WOULD have been replaced when it was changed. Once its leaking, we all go for the cheap top-up and hope approach - which of course fails. Each time its topped up additional oil and moisture enter the system and every time its left not working for a few months the seals begin drying and its therefore no wonder the other little problems start to arrive. A final hands up, (the first time the A/C system failed) all those that have had the leaking condenser cap diagnosed and replaced immediately and gone on to have further A/C problems? I'm fairly certain thats gonna be low or no one as well. We can all say the galaxy's a/c system is crap, its badly designed and all the rest of it - but personally I think it really comes down to a lack of communication between the designers, the dealers and the end users coupled with either a lack of knowledge or an unwillingness to spend a little money on this vital servicing. -Mirez *Ducks*

Diesel's rev up on their own when they are excessively burning oil and in doing so produce lots of smoke - the normal culprit is the turbo allowing oil into the intake system, remove the bottom hose to the intercooler and see if its full of oil.

I would say the software engineers, but not for it failing - I've thought for a long time that the galaxy ECU is extreamly lax in putting the engine warning light on - I reckon if we did a pole hardly anyone would have seen there MIL light on. A failing TP SHOULD bring a warning light with it - I'm sure a fair few people won't like that idea and see it as scaremongering but if its failing its failing and should be replaced or repaired - simple. :)

Ok back to the original question, and not these namby-pamby wannaby HID lamps! :o You WILL need to remove the headlight to change a factory xenon lamp. 4 thorx screws in total, two top, two bottom - remove all and slide the unit forward slightly - undo the wiring connector and remove the headlight (its worth using masking tape on the bumper as there are two metal prongs (part of the retaining method) which will scratch the bumper no matter how carefull you are! With the unit removed you need to undo the 3 screws that hold the ballast in place (the big silvery grey box with high voltage stickers on it) - remove and again disconnect the wiring. Behind this is a cover, held in place with two more thorx screws, one into the plastic and one into a metal plate - remove both and then the cover. The lamp is now accessible, handle the new one in the same way as a halogen lamp and do not touch the surface! Couple of points to note is that if you remove the headlight(s) from the car then you will screw up the alignment - Use a wall and flat road surface to mark the headlights beam before you start, that way you can readjust after. The second is that if you remove the passenger side light unit, the controller for the xenon's is part of the ballast on that side - disconnecting the headlight will cause the controller to forget its "level" or "home" position and subsequently the headlights will no longer auto-level. You'll need a REGISTERED VAG-Com system to fix this, once refitted connect to the passenger headlight and you'll find an error code logged as "Headlights failed to level" which won't clear. You'll need the car on a FLAT surface, with just you in it (seats ok, no luggage or passangers) and rested without the foot brake or hand brake applied - ie as flat as flat can be :( Leave the headlights off and ignition on - goto "Basic Settings", find group one and hit "Go" - the headlights will go to a "home" position (wait 20 secs to be sure, but you should hear the motors adjust) - turn the lamps on and adjust them manually using the adjustment screws on each headlight until they line up with the markings on the wall made earlier. Move to group 2 on Vagcom and the exit the controller. That'll reset the home position for level suspention - when you load the back they'll auto adjust for the added weight and you won't get flashed by oncomers! If you've ever changed the main battery in a gal with xenons then its worth checking for this fault as it seems any disruption to power for the left headlight will cause it to forget the setting and log this code - shutting down the auto levelling in the process. IMO there should be a warning light for this, as if its not auto levelling then a) you'll be dazzling on coming vehicles when you have any kind of load in the back and B ) they'll probably adjust them (or fail them I'm not sure how they test) at MoT time, resulting in the beam potentially being adjusted far too close to the road and a loss of light / reach.

Not had it on the galaxy, but the focus did it twice and I can sympathise with you - its a twitchy moment! Both times were also when overtaking so i'm guessing its to do with a maximum value being reached/exceeded - software designers have a LOT to answer!

Nor me, I would happily give this a go as I've removed the main covers before - but like I said above, its the headrests and armrests that I would have to have done professionally and I'm not sure how many places would be interested in doing just them for a sensible price. I have a quote from a local vehicle upholster for my own specification - all seven seats, armrests, headrests and doorcards in black and cream leather with embossed "GALAXY" in the seat backs for

There are two motors in door mirrors, one for up/down and one for left/right. If its this ebay item then thats for both motors in the assembly. You can see them either side of the central white bar. You can change individual motors but its much, much easier to simply replace as this assembly - remove the glass, remove the 4 retaining screws, disconect the wiring and remove.