Mirez

Never! Distilled water is dirt cheap - 49p a liter from my local autoparts place.

Is that a fitted price? I'm sure I didn't pay that much for one from Ford. Thread Actually yes I did but that was fitted, there was some discussion at the time that the parts quite a bit cheaper from VW/Seat as they are techincally Vdub parts anyway. Whats the car BTW? Mine was a 2001 1.9 115 at the time.

I would STRONGLY recommend against that company, I bought two from there - one was damaged on arrival and it took ages to get a replacement sent with a lot of arguing, when they finally did replace it and both were fitted the problem was actually worse - Ford described the parts as very poorly manufactured, both ended up being scrapped for genuine Ford bits less then 3 months after being fitted and I ended up taking them to court (well almost as they finally gave in) to get my money back.

Linky Link Link

Hi Anton, Its interesting to see you are a new member of all 14 car forums I visit, did you discover the internet yesterday or do you just think we were all born then?

See, this is where it comes in handy being able to speak german B) German Ebay Link

Pop the radio out and find the serial number (starts with an M) then PM me it and I'll see what I can be done B) If admin would prefer, include the VIN number of the car and I'll confirm its the one that should be with the vehicle before dishing the code ;)

A/C Won't engage below around +4*c so that'll be why your compressors not kicking in. As above after a 10 mile journey you should have heat, if its *just* starting to come in then the most likely suspect would be the thermostat.

Ebay One there, not sure if thats a good price or not but its the right one for a mk2 diesel.

I would check that its actually locking up first by getting someone to stand outside whilst you break heavily (grass verges and fields are best as you won't kill your tyres at the same time!) - if its icy out then it'll lock easily and pulse heavily as it's got next to no grip! If it actually is locking up then I would suspect you might have a sticking caliper on that side.

Yes!

No, depends on the exact voltage, an ok battery is over 12.4V with no draw (a good battery is closer to 12.6V) anything below 12.4 and its on the way out. Yes-ish, again depends on exact voltage but over 14V is ok, the closer to 14.4V the better but at idle you may not achieve that. 12V in electrical terms is nothing really, so getting good current at that voltage becomes tricky and hence why it'll drop off with big loads. Its the same reason truck's use 24V and why several years back the car industry wanted (still wants?) to change to 42V.

This time of year see's an increase in this - white mank is a result of moisture. Now while it could be from the coolant system its likely as a result of short little drives where the engines not properly warming up. Normally when a HG fails in such a way that it produces white mank you'll certainly know about it, there will be an excess of white smoke/steam from the exhaust and it'll be pretty lumpy to drive. Either way get an oil change done, if its as a result of the short drives it'll be ok for a few days/weeks and then come back. If its as a result of HG it'll come back much quicker and the old oil will come out looking brown rather then black.

Just wondering who's working on it? 4 weeks of "IPS Driver Error"s and slow and non responding site makes a database roll back out of question. I don't wish to be rude, it just seems like admin have abandoned this site and we must be loosing members hand over fist at the moment as a result!

Above the sunglasses holder in the center console. I'll take some photos when it all arrives and show you :angry:

Depends how far gone it is, if its semi working then it probably will make the sounds before shutting down (Flame out error) but if its fully broken the ecu will try 3 times to ignite it before disabling it alltogether (Open or Short Circuit) in which case it won't make any noises.

Yup, I will need to fit the second battery and timer module but I've costed all that in :lol: The module is the later version as fitted in scandonavia as well so it supports the summer function - turns interior scanning off, front fan on and opens the sunroof and rear air vents. For

Anyone got a Mk2 with the timer module for the auxillary heater? (allows you to speficy on time) I've tracked down all thats required to convert the standard heater to the timer version and reckon I can do it for around

Likewise, get a new hub. You can pick them up from a breakers for under

18's but not lowered as the drives too steep!

Something going on with the aux belt side of things - either its slipping or somethings dragging it down. It the A/C working?

You'll almost certainly have popped one or more fuses if the resisor pack has burnt out - there are many that control the system though so take each one out in turn and examine it!

I'm sure he'll provide you one in good course but he's got one in this thread: Forum Thread

Dave, its really not that hard to change yourself and the pump is about

Correct, the nav unit is indeed bigger and you'll also need a ford to ISO wiring adaptor if its going in the galaxy. The center console won't be stocked by a dealer but they will order it for you and IIRC its quite reasonable at about