Mirez

Glowplug light flashing is an indication of an ECU fault code, there could be any number of reasons so best get the fault codes read but the usual two are immobiliser and brake light switch problems

The massive drawback to this is that you then have a car that anyone can start with a butterknife or just 10 seconds of free time plus you'll almost certainly invalidate your insurance as you've purposely defeated the immobiliser system.

My MPG seems to have dropped from 40 to 25 though, thought it might be something to do with the injectors? Seem to have an issue with acceleration but think i have pinned that to the air flow sensor due to unplugging it has no effect, so have brought a new one. Cheers Rob MPG is probably related! If the ECU isn't able to work out the correct air intake then it can't mix the fuel correctly :)

Clear them, drive for a week and then scan again. Since you havn't said you have a problem with the car its quite likely they are old codes left over from a previous repair/problem.

Get the muscles working and try and turn the steering without the engine running - you'll be able to rule out the PAS pump, pulley and belt if the noise is still there then. When the ball joints go on the suspention arms it also causes a creaking noise at parking speeds only - something else to check!

I assume these are the things you plug into the cig lighter socket, if so arn't the sockets controlled by the ignition switch ? Radiotwo Yes, they are useless on any car that shuts off power to them when you turn off the ignition or (as in the case of the galaxy) after a predetermined time.

Sucking noises are normally vacuum problems, check ALL the pipework down and around that area (there are loads of vac pipes on the tdi) and see if you find a split/perished hose or one thats popped off entirely.

As with probably 90% of vehicle stuff its just getting in the right mindset and getting the right tools for the job - I havn't changed a front one but I believe you do need to drop the bumper off, don't be put off by that though - its only bolts at the end of the day!

I can't advise on how to trace it as I don't really understand what module the TCU is on the Gal! How are you resetting the code? Maybe try with just ignition or with the engine running - see what occurs. I suspect that turning the engine off whilst at speed could log the code (on a side note if you have and more rev's then tickover when you do that its a very quick way to kill a turbo!) as it seems to be related to the fuel pump signals. ...Actually it seems to be linked to nearly all the modules in the car - do a full scan with VagCom of every module and see if there are any other codes stored especially in the cluster, ABS and locking modules.

If you've ever taken one of the sensors off you'll know the likelyhood of a loose connection is remote! - the connectors are almost welded on! Its possible the wiring is damaged just before the plug but I've not seen that on the front ones, only the rears so its far more likely an internal fault with the sensor as that seems to be the most common form of failure.

IIRC All the time the engine is running.

also pull the fuses now whilst its still working else it'll generate a fault condition and shut down requiring the fault code to be cleared.

Copy and Pasted from the DTC list: DTC P1626 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Lost Circuit Description The Theft Control Unit (TCU) system is incorporated within the body control module (BCM). The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the state of health serial data message from the Theft Control Unit (TCU) to ensure that the PCM to TCU communications is established. If the PCM detects a loss of the state of health message while the engine is running, DTC P1626 will set. DTC P1626 can cause a no-start condition or normal operation depending on when the loss of Theft Deterrent system communication was detected. The engine will continue to start and run if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred after the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password from the BCM and already allowed fuel during the ignition cycle. The engine will start and immediately stall if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred before the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password. With this condition present, the PCM will inhibit fuel delivery and disable the starter until a valid theft deterrent password is detected. Conditions for Setting the DTC The PCM has detected a loss of the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system. Conditions for Clearing the DTC The DTC becomes history when the conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present. The history DTC clears after 40 malfunction free warm-up cycles. The PCM receives a clear code command from the scan tool / Diagnostic Aids

Indeed, sounds very much like a battery failure. As insider said, how was it tested? How old is it (there should be a date on it somewhere)? If its not a battery fault then check the wiring from the negative to the chassis and the positive to the aux fusebox and on from there and it sounds very much like low voltage / high resistance

I would agree, classic battery symptoms - they tend to last between 3 and 5 years which would put yours right in the middle of that! 9V will certainly not start a car, get it jumped and then test the voltage which will hopefully be a little over 14V

The black/green wire from Pin2? If so it becomes a Grey/Red wire at the CJB. There are two spurs on that run, one (S137) "Under dash panel, passenger side" and then again (S135) "Vehicle Floor, RH B Pillar" I would remove the tape around the loom running under the passenger scuff panel and find it there, then carefully remove a piece of the insulation and test continuity back at the door - tape up when done! If thats all ok then because its a spur it's most likely done within the loom - the downside of that is that it could be anywhere within the cabling back to the CJB. Personally I wouldn't be that concerned with finding it, since its a spur and you know its ok on the others doors just run an additional cable from one of those doors and chop it in.

http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Seat-Audi-Zusatz-Was...=item53decc82a5 Or if you wanna buy from Germany

And you won't either because I was really thick and gave you the ford location numbers and not the number as its shown in the car - sorry! PM your email address and I'll send you the wiring diagrams, its probably easier! Can you confirm your build date as well as Q3 of 2000 was the cross-over!

Wow, certainly a strange one! Is there anyway you could have mixed up the wiring when you did the rear drivers door? I only ask because that (if I'm reading it correctly) would make all 3 have the same issue? The wirings rather complex for the windows but the only thing I can see that could effect the windows in just one way is F37 (5Amp) which feeds pin 8 on the multifunction modules in each door. It runs through that doors lock status switch and if the door is in the unlock position 12V flows to pin 8 and allows the window to open. If its missing then the switch is disabled for down but not up (presumably an anti-theft feature to stop the window being broken and then the window being used?) I would measure the voltages for the passenger module on these pins: Pin 8 (Green) - 12V feed from the lock switch Pin 11 (Brown/Blue) - Should be floating at rest, 12V when the DRIVERS switch is telling that window to close and a lower voltage (unspecified doh!) when its telling it to open. Its basically a signal wire, direct 12V to close, and via a resitor to open. Pin 15 (Red/Yellow) - A voltage should be present here from fuse F75 (30Amp) and also feeds the switch on Pin1 Pin 3 (White/Red) - this is the return from the switch. Should be floating at rest, ground when the switch is telling it to open and 12V when its being told to close Pin 7 (Black/Yellow) - a direct feed from F2 (10Amp) Pin 1 (Brown) - Ground 5,8,14 and 2 are all signaling wires from the CJB to do with global opening / closing. Once you've checked these then at least you've confirmed the basic operation :)

It would appear to be the same kit for the early Mk1's with the 3Kw heater and not the 5Kw one fitted from 98>. IIRC the 3Kw version didn't come with a run-on pump which is what that thing is - albeit a cheap looking plastic pump!

Sounds like fun! Has it got the Ford Amp still in place or has that been bypassed as well? The numerical value at the start is the wire thickness, the smaller the thinner the wire will be. The colours are read at the majority being the first colour and the second being the stripe. Finally I've put the original pin location on fords connector in brackets at the end. 0.5 Grey/Blue Illumination (4) 2.5 Red/Red Main Supply (1) 1.5 Brown/Red Ignition Supply (3) 0.5 Brown/Yellow Ilumination Ground (2) 2.5 Brown/Brown Main Ground (6) 0.5 Red/Red Potential Supply (5) **Its not overly clear what this is but would appear to be an early VSS or Speed signal** That completes the power connector, there is a comms in from the stalk controller if you have that and everything else passes on to the amplifier but isn't labeled or colour coded. I dont have time to go further into it at the moment so see how you go and whats left over now you can remove the power connector's cabling.

Seriously? From a man with a morse code signature? ;)

lol, I did see the FUNK switch but I wasn't sure I wanted to go back to the 80's! There is also an ASS switch lmao :) Thanks for all the offers guys, but unless the kids come with a winegum factory I'll let it go ;) they are ordered now, 9 people in total (none from here you cheapskates lol) so it worked out at

I would go with that seller then as those are good instructions for their kit. Seite02, Bild8 - thats the back of relay's 430 base (the run-on pump), thats a good photo as it shows how tight that wiring is! If you look at picture 6 (Bild6), imagine the relay panel tilted forward another 90 degrees and you need to get in behind there to make that connection! I would also be a little unhappy using crimp connections for the heater blower - thats a large current cable so connections need to be perfect.