Mirez

Just to clarify because I've done this several times. The 6006 is indeed 1.5 din and you will need a new insert - the switches will fit however without any issues. The nav is a VW design and hence why ford won't know how to remove it - (though its not hard). Its wired to the cluster though so you will loose that for certain. Why would you want to remove it?

Yup, both mine have done this although they vary. It occationally turns off and then restarts later in the journey as well.

You'll be able to see what temperature its reporting if you have access to vag-com - would be insteresting to see!

You still havn't said if its coming from the engine bay or the exhaust and if its doing it all the time or just when cold/hot etc? If its from the exhaust and only when its cold ensure its not the aux heater not firing.

I have 4 that need to go: All four are 235/40/18 95Y XL with rim protetor 2x Goodyear Eagle F1's (Tread of 3.6mm) 2x Continental Sport Contact 3 (Tread of 7.8mm) Collection from Westbury Wiltshire Offers considered before ebay!

Remove the two screws in the "roof" of the surround, then remove the surround. That'll expose the cluster and you can see two more screws in the top left and right corners - remove them. You may have two more in the center of the bottom of the cluster, if so remove them. The whole assembly should then slide forward enough for you to disconnect the wiring from behind. Set the steering wheel to the lowest, furthest out position and then withdraw the cluster out and to the left to remove.

01176 is a signal issue. Its not been able to communicate with the key correctly which could be either a defective transponder (in the key) or tranceiever unit (around the ignition barrel) but more likely a blocked signal due to other keys being on your keyring. If you have multiple car keys on the one ring you can get issues creaping in as the transeiver powers all in its local range - the result being multiple codes being returned to it and blocked communication (and the code) Reset it and see if it comes back - only then should you worry.

They may not right that off, I've certainly seen much worse then that put back on the road! Did the airbag deploy? Looking at the photo, a replacement airbag would be the most expensive bit! :)

I finally cured mine by partx'ing it ;) No, to be honest I did fix it and it was driveshafts, or specifically the inner CV tripod joint things. I bought replacement driveshafts complete with CV's (new) from ebay and they actually made things slightly worse - which I assumed was because they were tighter and amplifing whatever the cause was. When I finally cracked and sent it to my local ford dealer for diagnostics (who are extreamly good and not your usual!) they came back then inner and outer CV's where "sloppy". After replacing both shaft assemblies at around

Hid lamps look like this (reply a couple more times to this thread if you can't see the picture as I think you need 5 posts to see pictures for some reason!): The pack on the back is the ballast used to generate the thousands of volts required to strike the lamp - IF you manage to fit standard halogen headlights in there (which will be a challenge!) you'll discover just how much brighter they are then ;) The light they produce is much closer to daylight then a halogen can produce, this is coupled with an EVEN light distribution across the surface rather then halogens rather focused "spots" of light. The result should be a crisp light thats safer to drive by. Its the reason they are such an expensive and desirable upgrade and also why so many of the luxury marques now fot them as standard on some models (BMW, Merc etc). IF they are genuinely dim then you may have: 1) a non working headlight levelling system resulting in the beam being angled to close to the ground in front of the car 2) frosting or contamination of the lense (the big bulgy thing) thats in front of the lamp 3) very old lamps (bulbs) fitted which have done many hours of service. Typical life should be around 3000 hours but the brightness will deteriorate towards the end.

Then you are clinically insane - a halogen lamp won't be anywhere near as bright (or give anywhere near as good a light spread) against a xenon lamp. ;)

Whilst what you say is correct... Where the hell have you been! ;)

And as I stated earlier, the belt is probably running the wrong way around the PAS pump!!

Which makes it a Mk1 not a Mk2 hence the diagram may be incorrect!

I would suggest the belt is incorrectly fitted and is driving the PAS pump the wrong way - what diagram did you use?

www.fordmondeo.org ;)

Only if its a petrol. Vag-Com should work on all the diesels though. They won't find xenon range under the "Xenon Range" option within VagCom as weirdly its part of the "Left Headlight" option on the galaxy/sharan/alhambra.... I did wrote all the details on how to setup the auto levelling for xenon headlights recently under your other post! "How to change xenon bulb"

Thanks Mirez Yes i do quite a bit of Town driving but tomorrow have to drive to Chiswick, so its M6, M40 and that will give it a good "blow out" Hopefully this will help It should do! We had this with the last galaxy and on the way home after picking it up as well! Its an awfull feeling when you've not experienced it before and you've just bought it! Luckily I had done a little reading prior to buying the Mk2 and had read about engine off/on resetting it - once that worked I booted it all the way home (some 15 miles) and the smoke got less and less - it never had the problem again in the year and a bit we owned it. I do subscribe to seatkids thoughts on his miracle "Millers" diesel additive though, and whilst I use another brand the emissions are very low at MoT time.

Certainly! If you pay for something it should be done right! "Short to ground" can only be incorrect or badly fitted plug or a wiring fault. The latter being reasonably unlikely unless they've caught it whilst putting it back together.

You take the tension off the belt with a lot of difficulty! If you look on the visable side of the tensioner you'll see a square hole - the official way is to use a special tool to locate in there and then lift up - if you dont have that tool then it can be done with a large allen key - when I did it I used a socket to wedge in underneath to keep the tension off but give it respect as it'll take your finger off if the socket slips out. The actual process is very easy but the tension its under makes it difficult!

Possibly a defective glowplug or more likely the wrong one for the booster and its touching the frame instead of being insulated.

:huh: Wots the going rate? Surely we can beat it? lol Some even have ETIS which is the online version, compressed and put onto a dual layer DVD. ..... allegedly.

If the power came back its unlikely to be the MAF and almost certainly the sticking turbo vane problem. Do you do a lot of town driving? Low RPM's? When the engine is properly warm (ie, been running for a good 30mins or so) then find a nice road and use the entire rev range - ensure there isn't anyone behind you though as its likely to put out a lot of smoke! :huh: