Mirez

But what was you running in the caravan ? Radiotwo I don't have a caravan but I do tow a large boat, the socket charges the battery and runs the fridge on it and thats about it - I bought the genuine wiring kit hence why I know where it takes the feed from but as with the above posts I wasn't overly happy that a) the wiring was up to the job and :P there wasn't a relay unit or some other restrictor to stop the 12V socket being live at the same time. At the end of the day though it is a fully fused circuit so the worst thats possible (in theory :P ) is a blown fuse.

Can't help with the download but a V reg is a Mk1 Galaxy, not Mk2

C265 - Direction Indicators Left Direction Indicator Pin 3 - Green/Black .35 Gauge Right Direction Indicator Pin 11 - Green .35 Gauge They appear to both be signal switches (ground switching)

The ford kit uses the rear power outlet for the job - its the only live feed back there.

Year? Model? Spec?

There are 2 PDF's, the first I wrote and the second is in Russian (I think) and towards the end of the thread, or at least it was when I last looked lol - Its got some usefull diagrams and photos in so worth a look even if you don't speak Russian :D The exhaust and intake both help support the unit which basically sits in a metal securing frame which you need to "open" to get to the heater. Without removing both pipes you can't drop the unit down to gain access to the plug - it might be possible not to remove them but I doubt it, though as with most things you'll find a way that works for you and if you dont need to... great, let us know! The plugs...ahhh yes. As far as I can tell there are 3 plugs, one for the early 3Kw heater (you certainly wont have that). The "normal" one that's in the PDF and seems most common and a revised version on flying leads that seems to have been fitted (sadly for you) sometime in 2004.

You have indentified a fault that could cause these issues. Get the door looms sorted before you do anything else, since each door signals the controller when its open/closed if those wires are shorting out then its no wonder the lights are all over the place.

PETROL ENGINES 1995>2000: 1998CC Ford 4Cyl 8V = 113Bhp / 170Nm 2295CC Ford DOHC 4Cyl 16V = 142Bhp / 203Nm 2782CC VW AAA 6Cyl 12V = 171Bhp / 240Nm

One or more cylinders not firing, check plugs, leads and coil pack

There are two PDF's are more photos later on in that big FAQ thread...

60K is correct for 03> but its 4 years, not 5 according to the VW schedule for the PD engine. How's the 35K been done? Motorway, town, start/stop? Unless its been mostly town and start/stop then I wouldn't panic, the belts are good on these engines. Remove the upper cover and inspect it - if its still in "as new" condition as I suspect it will be then I personally wouldn't bother until its done a few more miles :46:

Big mistake!, I have changed to a Smax and its great!... can find anything thats not as good as a Galaxy yet. Give it time, like all cars they have their faults - its just still a little on the new side for them to be classed as "common" issues yet. :46:

Comes back with two results, both are for the engine glowplugs not the aux heater one - hence the price :46:

The windows are all wired direct hence why they work, the module you are missing is described as the "Anti-theft" module (anyone else see the irony there? lol) and controls the global opening/closing, remote and double door locking and the alarm. The PATS immobiliser seems to be an independant module located up behind the dash so the missing module shouldn't be inhibiting start. I'd hazzard a guess though, the relay you are on about thats also missing... its not the interia switch that some fools removed? That lives down there as well and looks like a gold box with red button, it detects big impacts (crash) and cuts the fuel supply - if its been removed then again, no fuel will flow.

I believe Ford used their own PATS system and VW/Seat stuck with their IMMO system - can't say for sure though!

The wiring changed a lot between Mk1 and Mk2 so I would ditch the haynes for this! The multimedia pack indeed requires a feed from the radio, its purely a signal wire though to tell it when the radio has power - its used to ensure the multimedia system powers down and not on permanently. The 6006 (as far as I'm aware) wasn't ever fitted to the galaxy so its been modified in the past to fit - it should be reasonably easy to retro back though as the speaker connection should still fit...

:) Thats what its all about guys, helping each other out and appreciation- top men! As for the fault, the lateral sensor basically measures the sideways motion of the vehicle and compares it to the expected motion in relation to the steering wheel position/speed. You normally get the old "implausible signal" code when its goosed, the "electric circuit failure" would indicate it can't communicate correctly - good and bad news, the connector has been known to come loose going into the module which will cause that code, the bad news is that I believe the sensor is down in the storage bay below the passenger seat, yes the area thats prone to flooding which would also cause that code.

how many fuses r there,i can only see one under the dash any suggestions are very welcome FOUR! two in the engine bay, two in the cabin and the pump is one of the engine bay fuses. F101 and F102 in the engine bay - second and third in, both 30Amp F13 and F15 in the cabin - 5Amp and 10Amp

Hi Nick, welcome along - turbo sounds nasty! How much did that set you back?

No problem, once its all figured out I'll set up a charge list for you! (Only joking mate - winegums and a cup of tea :) ) There is some DOS, lots of HEX and a little binary - Fortunately my degree's in computer science so its not baffling me just yet! From what I can gather it was all down to cost that the options wern't enabled by default. I should hopefully be talking to one of the original VDO programmers that coded the Mk2 cluster next week and know a lot more about what it can do, its herritage, why its setup the way it is and what changes can, can't and shouldn't be done!

Remember to write it all down ....... Does your original vagcom lead work or do you need a different one ? Done! You need a different one, cost me

Gadgetoid are you saying yours won't play either? If so then this may be a revision issue between the A, B & G units and or with the TMC controller as I've just been out and mine merrily played a regular CD - For reference I have a late G unit with the TMC controller. kebrina, you should indeed have a VHS player in there. The ford DVD option was only available from August 2002 and IIRC was a

Anyone played with this? I'm still learning it but so far I'm pleased to say I have a fully working "Distance to empty" display and have disabled the service reminder. I'm still working on the Galaxy cluster at the moment, but I've corrected the mileage and got everything else working bar the fuel gauge being overly sensitive on the alhambra one so once I've corrected that I'll fit it and be even happier lol (more gauges yay lol) I'm also tempted to have a play with some of the other stuff I've seen: There seems to be provision for auto wipers and auto headlights - which was an easyish retrofit to the mondeo. Global opening/closing from the remote key should also be possible Anti-hijack and two stage unlocking - two features I've been after for a while! I'm also talking with one of my german friends who actually works for VDO and its possible to get full diagnostic info like oil temp, fuel temp, vac, cam position etc etc to display in the cluster. This is essentially a service mode however with some recoding it should be possible to select some or all of those functions to appear in the trip computer menu. I've just got another alhambra cluster so I'm planning to have a play when that turns up without fear of screwing it all up :)

Its always extreamly difficult to advise on noises over an internet forum but you seem to have covered most of the options - given the choice between the pump or rack I would say go with the pump - there isn't much in a rack that can make sustained noises, the pumps the workhorse of it all and the most likely fail point. As far as strip down and rebuild or replace? I would replace everytime, if a components faulty then whats to say that when you've replaced it hasn't damaged something else or something else was the initial cause and your new component because faulty quickly. Certainly would shop about though,

OEL - Engine oil change IN01 - Inspection service IN02 - Inspection service & additional operations Basically a major service is required ;)