Mirez

Not at all, noticeably stiffer over speed bumps but not bumpy at all but as above, best improvement is the body roll's been eliminated.

Think they retail at about

Yup, both sides were perished on mine.

1. Replace MAF. 2. Replace MAF. 3. Replace MAF. 4. Replace MAF. There should be a marked difference between running the car with and without the MAF connected. If you have no difference then its almost certainly defective.

I need to learn to type :) Possibly, if the springs compressed enough then you should be able to move the arm down far enough to allow for removal. I had originally planned to do it that way but went with the official way in the end as I wanted to overhaul the front end and dissasembly was easier this way. She's back together now :D Number 6 was seized solid on mine, I actually sheared an allen key off trying to undo the bugger before having to saw it apart - still those are only 96p so its not that bad! I can understand not wanting to spend more money then required, I probably could have salvaged the passenger side had I been more delicate with removal but the drivers side no chance - so long as you can live without the car for a day or so then I wouldn't worry, although my local factors has stock of the struts so even if you do run into problems you could probably source them quicker then that. I started with the rears which, in hindsight, was a mistake as they were a doddle to do - the problem with that is that it left me the fronts to do on Sunday when nothings open! Anyway, as said its all back together now - feeling super tight and the body roll has gone so I'm extreamly happy. Asthetically as well it looks so much better without the cavern between the arch and tyre - I'll do some photos when I get time.

Thats the puppy! For reference the one down by the bumper (to the right of the lower grill as you look at it) is the dash and climate sensor.

No faults are shown and it won't overheat if the primary water pumps working. Its main purpose it for the auxillary and rear heater. However its important that it is working as it has got 3 uses: 1) To assist / backup the main water pump 2) As the name implies to "Run-On" after switch off, preventing hot spots from forming within then engine 3) Its the only way water will properly circulate around the rear heater, the booster heater will die quite quickly if the pumps not working.

Nope thats the only location, it should be clipped to the wiper mechanism itself and comes up with the wiper wiring so can be hard to see.

The ones in the box are the top ones, they are quite a bit bigger the the originals on mine put fit perfectly however its the bottoms that seem to have worn out. Good luck with the dampers, neither of mine were salvageable - the first because the allen end rounded out and the second because I ended up needed to saw through the strut to remove it! There are also two hidden nuts that sit below the cap with the rusted ones in - I would get them as well as one was so solid on mine I just couldn't undo it - sheared the allen key off in the end on the first go and rounded the strut out on the second... hence the saw!

3.99 out of 4 :D Rears are quite easy but I would order yourself the rubber seats the springs sit on, mine were badly perished - I managed to get them on ok but I now need to redo the whole back end again as they are noise insulators :46: 1072429 is the ford part x2, described as "Rear spring seat cap" Fronts would have been fine, however when knocking out the driveshaft on the driversside I damaged the hub bolt so I'm waiting on stock now so I replace it and drive her. I would suggest you get everything I listed above. The tops of the struts got mullered removing the old nut as it was so badly corroded and there is no way they would have gone back on, the lower balljoints also got damaged during removal so I would have been struggling if I'd not had the parts to hand - you also need a mate about as removing the hub, disc, strut and spring is a heavy old lump!

Is this a mail dealer? What your describing has a host of names, but normally main dealers call it a Generic Electronic Module (GEM) and VW call is a GCM (Gateway Controller Module) however its all the same thing no matter what name you call it and the Body Control Module (Or BCM) is the main controller for all the vehicles electricals and its purpose is to look after and control the various circuits. Faulty BCM's are more common then you think, and since its a controller and a main diagnostic one it's got the ability to generate fault codes and messages. I'm not familier with the Mk3 controller but normally they are hidden away behind the dash somewhere requiring the dash to be removed to gain access, more often then not they also need to be fully recoded to each controller and the main ECU which will take a while!

Lol, know the feeling - from a string of mondeos and bmw's its a bit of a difference but with the way the UK roads and laws are now, personally, I think the age of fast cars is over. Of course it might be me getting older, :D but I'd much rather have the comfort and space over everything else. I'm probably one of the few members on here who don't have kids, but the size and versitility just make it such an ideal vehicle we struggle to think of anything to replace it with if we had too (maybe a Kuga when they come down a bit more in price) but for now I''m enjoying the gal quite a lot :46: I bought an OEM mount and strut year before last for our previous gal which didn't need to be fitted in the end and I've bought a cheepo one from ebay to complete the set. There is no difference between them, both made in Germany and both stamped up the same just the ebay one is missing the VAG part number... 170455151282 is the item number for the mount and bearing and 380266045630 is the ball joints. I used a motor factors when I did the last one and it started squeeking within the week - the ones above arn't the cheapest on ebay but they are a known brand (Delphi) and seem to be extreamly good quality.

I will do :D You don't need them but you have to seperate both to change the strut - coupled with the fact it has to be tracked up after being lowered then it made sence to me to spend the extra now and replace items that will wear anyway. She's just about to tick over to 70K miles so they'll be on the way (especially with wiltshires shitty roads) and I'll then have all new items on the front and hopefully have a trouble free front end for a good few years. I also look at it that all the components are going to be sat in a different position once the springs are in, I don't know what kind of vibration or other weird things are going to happen as they pass through that point in normal driving - probably nothing but again, for peace of mind - thats why I've done it :46:

Have you not thought about getting a second hand seat and just recovering it with yours?

Essentially yes but there are lots of varients in the bases so you need to be carefull! Some are 3 panel stiched, some are 2 (which effects the foam panel). There are also sport and confort options which have better bolsters, and there are seperate ones listed for the heating so that must have some effect of the base as well.

I repaired mine by simply replacing the carbon brushes inside the pump, they wear out after i think x amount of miles! They can be replaced but you need to source the brushes from somewhere like ebay and file them to the correct size to fit. it isnt to difficult a job and if you decide to do it i will try to give you some more tips. and if anyone wants a spare pump to work on, I have my old one you can have for the price of postage :46:

Few, my neighbour had them... Yeah they look very OEM and nice, I liked the ford FINIS numbers stamped all over them - when I rang the insurance company they said as its an OEM kit I don't even need to notify them - bonus. I've already been collecting :D Got top mounts and bearings, front shocks, track-rod ends and lower ball joints... couple that wih a double garage, 24 cans of carlsberg and a reservation at the local indian - they are deffo going on this weekend! :46:

Comes as standard... you know, darn saff,.:46:

Fantastic, do they look good? Which courier did they come with and was it signed for? I couldn't work from home today and I've got a nasty feeling they'll be taken to a depot that won't open tomorrow so I'll have to delay install until next weekend now - pah!

Both go on the filter housing, specifically the bit you unscrew. The large one seals the screw top and the housing. The little one seals the bottom of the screw top to the canister flow (on the end of the stalk basically)

Hi Buster and welcome to the site, what varient are you driving?

Oh yeah, good job you got in quick :( Its still cheaper then everyone else I could find though! Mines also been despatched :46:

He's correct...ish. The 2.0 petrol is a mondeo engine, the 2.3 petrol is a scorpio engine. You should be able to see the fuse box easily in the engine bay, pop to a scrapyard if you do need a replacement - they are about a fiver from a dealer!

All ford built from 06 on The new sharan and alhamra are due out within 6 months and will again be totally new vehicles.

The pump will come on approximately 30 seconds after the ignition, regardless of engine start or not. It operates at all temperatures and stays on the entire time the ignition is on, a delay relay holds the pump on for around 3 minutes after the ignition is switched to off. Thats the only conditions for the aux pump unless you live In a cold climate regions (not uk) with pre-heat function in which case it come on with that as well. Changing it is easy but fiddly, remove the bulk head cover (3 bolts) and it'll be a lot easier, its held in place by two rubber rings - disconnect the in and outlets and then slide it out of the rings - in theory its a 2 minute job, in reality takes about 30 mins of fiddling and scratched hands! There will be some coolent loss so be ready, but its one of the highest points in the system so you shouldn't lose much - you could bench clamp the pipes to stop leaking but given the limited space its not ideal to add anything else into the area!