seatkid

As insider said - Check the vacuum pipes for splits, dodgy connections, blockages. If in doubt - change the pipe. Then check the turbo actuator moves freely (there is a thread describing how to check, lubricate and free it up). These account for 90% of limp home problems. The "works when cold" could be anything - pipes shrinking, turbo clearances changing, sensor readings drifting. You shouldnt read anything too significant into it.

THAT'S the problem!........ :lol: - Just a thought :huh: Have you checked there's no air bubbles in the clear fuel feed line to the injection pump? A lot of people seem to have problems with fuel filters and air leaks (sometimes due to O rings lost during a filter change).

:16:

The coil failed when the engine had been running for a while and so the cat was up to normal operating temperature. Woody had to move the car out the flow of traffic so he cranked and cranked the car while in gear so cranking for a considerable while. Meanwhile the fuel injection was still working so neat unburnt fuel got into the catalyst and.......red hot glow (and highly likely damaged cat)

now, now girls.....settle down...... :16:

There must be a fuse somewhere, it would be negligently dangerous to have a direct connection to the battery as witnessed by many a car fire in the bad old days (pre 1970). What Ford have probably discovered is the rating of the wiring and/or its looming adjacent to other current carriers is marginal or not up to the job. Rather than fit a smaller fuse that will keep blowing everytime your fridge cuts in, they decided to not take risks, the onus will now be on the garage or owner who wires up pin 9. Its a risk avoidance measure.

A follow up to my "refurbished key" After about a month I started to have problems and it deteriorated over another couple of weeks to the extent that it was very hit or miss again. So I decided to look into it again. This time I stripped it down and examined the PCB thoroughly both sides under a magnifying glass, looking for solder breaks etc. Couldnt find any breaks or PCB key problems. (No need for any shims...) What I did find was the contact area on the pcb was had rubbed under the battery contact, rubbing away the tinning and exposing the copper underneath. see below From experience at work, copper does not make a good battery contact. So I retinned the area with a soldering iron - making sure that the tinning was even and not too thick. (I avoided the little square) Voila! Working better than brand new! I am very confident that this is the problem with most fobs but I'll report in another month or so to confirm whether the repair is permanent. MYTH: If you remove the batteries, after a couple of minutes the key will need to be reprogrammed. I had the battery disconnected for well over 10 minutes. The key does not rely on batteries to retain data. I'm not even sure that the key is programmable - the "programming procedure" programs the vehicle's remote locking system to accept the key. (This has security implications if thats the case)

Glad you got it going. Take it along to an MOT station and check the emissions - to make sure the cat and the lambda werent damaged.

Wilco & Out :( pps mk2vr6.... will you cease from posting further in this thread - AFAIK you are not a NonActivelyParticpating member http://briskoda.net/images/smilies/rbuttkick.gif

As I expected, the dead cat bounced on Monday - doesn't take a genius to have seen that one coming. Gordon Brown was basking in the glory of the bounce on Monday - now we're back to square one on Wednesday. That must be something of a record boom/bust even for GB. My position hasn't changed - things are looking grave - the foolish actions by Governments around the world to throw good money after bad is going to make things much, much worse. As when taking an aircraft flight, look around you and plan your quickest exit route. Know where your nearest ATM is, and the next one if that one dries up. The good news is - Diesel will soon be under

So did you order your wife over the internet and did you get a good discount? :( What if you don't like her? Can you send her back for a refund or do you have to exchange? :(

Everything is easy when you know how!...... :( Glad you didn't let the ignorant rip you off.

I got well over 50,000 miles on the original set of CONTI sport contacts I'm now at 90,000 and have bought just 5 tyres since new (I cycled in the full size alloy spare) I swap them around at approx 25,000 mile intervals otherwise the back tyres/spare will never wear out (but die of old age) Currently have 2 x Conti premium contacts on front (6mm+ / 10,000 miles / 1 year) 2 x Conti sport contacts on rear (3 mm /40,000 miles /5 years) Spare although it has over 2mm is knacked due to a bodged tyre repair by a back street garage which has caused strange wear pattern and balancing and steering problems. I think the internal vulcanising has come apart... The Conti premiums cost

Okeley Dokely! btw...... does lying on the sofa staring blankly at the tv all evening count as non active?

Try looking at the FAQ for relay 30 (fuel pump relay)

those without installation or boot disks can find something useful here Take care to choose something appropriate, e.g. you have to know what version of OS you were using and preferably whether the disc was formatted in NTFS or FAT32/FAT16 Often a non booting o/s that shows symptoms of restarting constantly is caused by a power supply or motherboard problem. Changing/swapping the PSU is always a good start.

Windows Xp I presume. 1. Try loading Windows in Safe Mode (press f8 during boot) 2. If that dont work then use an XP installation CD , boot from that and run "recovery console" or "repair installation" Provided the HDD hasn't died completely (not turning) its usually possible to get things back. You can also usually put the HDD into another machine and read it. If its a PATA drive then make sure its configured correctly when doing so (set to slave)

How about a big hammer? If I were you I would look at connectors to the injection pump and possibly the lift sensor- pull them apart - inspect - if in doubt squirt some cleaner (brake cleaner is OK).

No, but your local Seat or VW dealer will. Try phoning.

Things continue to go from bad to worse....quickly This weekends financial commentary is dire and paints a much worse picture than even I dare imagine. To call the problem an abyss seems about right. The problem is no longer just about toxic debt, its about a catastophic domino effect. There appears to be silent runs going on at many banks. These runs are where cash (liquidity) is being drawn/transfered not only by individuals via the internet but also by major institutions among them insurance and those who gambled on insurance trying to desperately service claims on defaulting companies (the dreaded CDS). Forced selling is what is bringing the stockmarket down. What does this mean to you and me? It means many banks could become insolvent in a matter of weeks if not sooner. That will lead to shortage of cash at the ATMs and companies not being able to pay wages. Already the talk is that some councils cannot afford to pay full wages because of the Iceland fiasco. A number of countries are lining up to default on their soveriegn debt. Which in turn leads to many western firms with exposure to CDS (insurance) having to unexpectandly having to pay out billions. That is the legacy of the "smart" banker. I am at a bit of loss to know what is the best way to react to this crisis (of capitalism). Obviously drawing all your savings out in cash is not very practical and would only accelerate the downward spiral. I just hope that I'm wrong and that our members are not hit too badly. Tomorrow the Government is taking over RBS with a MAJORITY stake. Remember that RBS is one of the worlds largest banks. Shorters have moved in on Sandtander - another world large bank. Its getting scary, very scary.

OK you have 13v on the king lead so the coil is not o/c - so the likely cause is the hall sender in the distributor. When my golf died in the same way, I went to VW and they offered a new exchange distributor for

Surely you can get a refund under distance selling regs andalso under misrepresentation of goods. Have you contacted the seller and explained?

Have you checked the oil level?

If you chip your car and don't inform your insurance company then your insurance is defacto invalid, you are driving without insurance and so illegally. In the event of a serious accident (e.g. fatality) you could end up with a criminal prosecution, unlimited costs which could bankupt you and a criminal record. And my names not John..... :o

They can tell its been reprogrammed (remapped/chipped) - whether they would do that is debatable. Perhaps only in a serious or costly claim. Only the latest ECU's in the latest cars (certainly not Mk1 or Mk2 Shalaxys) store (some) black box information (e.g. speed, vehicle status, airbag accelerometer data etc) - I've never heard of this kind of information being used by Insurance companies although EU legislation is in the pipeline to mandate this.