seatkid

00575 Intake Manifold Pressure: Control Limit Not Reached. This is probably not a faulty sensor (which IIRC is mounted on the large black intercooler pipe crossing the right side of the engine). The fault means that the ECU demanded turbo boost but insufficient boost appeared. The usual reasons for this are 1. Leaking/disconnected/blocked vacuum pipes 2. Faulty/blocked Turbo control solenoid 3. Sticking turbo waste gate actuator (90bhp model) Check all those little vacuum pipes first, start at the turbo and work back.......

Smoke from wiring means too much current. Either incorrect fuse fitted (too large) or a wiring fault (a short between circuits) If it was "bellowing out smoke" then you need to strip the dash and examine the damage. There may be significant damage to the loom making further use of the car dangerous.

Can you really trust a Chinese made turbocharger? I've bought many Chinese tools (g-clamps,vices,small tools) in the past - they were all crap and broke in many instances on first use. The steel used was as strong as balsa wood. Now if they sold me a set of brake discs and pads for 50p..............I'd tell them to stuff it in a Chinese Passat and go to VW or GSF and buy genuine OEM!

So? Any news?

AFAIK faulty abs sensors go more or less open circuit. IIRC a healthy ABS sensor has an approximate resistance of between 1k and 1.5k ohms

The power steering pump is driven by a smaller seperate belt. This is manually tensioned. Tighten it up.

Braking with the box in drive will accentuate any wheel vibration as the warped discs' inconsistent retardation will be imposed at the transmission. Examine and change the discs/brake pads first, then worry about the box if the vibration is still there.

1. Don't panic 2. Check you have petrol in the tank. 3. Charge up your battery 4. Try your spare key in case you lost the immobiliser chip. 5. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is turned on? If not, then check Relay 30 and its connections (search the forum for details). 6. Remove each HT lead in turn and check you have a healthy bright blue 1"+ spark when turning over. 7. Having bought 4 plugs - why not try fitting them, they always work better IN an engine and check you have the leads connected to the right plugs. 8. Visually inspect all around the engine, particularly where the work was done, looking for broken/disconnected wires and damaged/pulled off pipes 9. If everything above is fine, then either get a diagnostic scan done - or maybe change the crankshaft position sensor.

Pardon, Im a bit deaf. SPEAK LOUDER

Probably an ARB drop link TWANG! ........Two springs on my wagon....and I'm still rollin along......... ;)

:o Beware......when a VW garage mentions CPS it means Cost Per Second........ ;)

See your duplicate post.

Doubt if your repair will hold. The A/C operates at high pressure.

thats because it doesnt have a dipstick. Checking the level and filling is not straightforward. The information and pictures are posted in the forum, so try searching. You ideally need the car raised on a horizontal lift. The gearbox has to be at a defined temperature (35 deg C IIRC) , engine running (not sure) The drain plug is a two piece affair (inner/outer). When the inner plug is removed, this leaves the outer bit which extends inside and is a level tube. Top up the correct type of oil via the top up plug which I think is on the side of the box. Any excess oil will run over the level tube and out of the drain plug. If you remove the outer bit (level tube), you can drain the oil.

You are now the resident expert on removing rear bumpers! Well done!

Probably bradex easistart - don't use this product! , it damages engines - its only useful as a last resort for knackered engines. You have several possibilties, among them.... Crankshaft position sensor (that usually gives 5 beeps IIRC) Immobiliser problem Fuel injector pump problem or a wiring/connector problem to one of the above devices. or Timing problem (e.g crankshaft pulley has slipped) The easiest thing however is to do a diagnostic scan first..... failing that, change the cps (or get someone to change it) It won't fix itself!

There is no relay 30 on a Tdi. Relay 30 is the fuel pump relay on a petrol engined model. The Tdi has a mechanical fuel pump. You havent changed the batteries in the key fob have you? You may have lost the PATS chip in the key if you have.

:) So true...

No, thank you very much! Remember a mod is for life not just for Christmas.....

Last time I had a spring go in about 1996 (85 Passat), I just went to Masterfit (Vauxhalls cheap servicing arm) and it was almost as cheap for them to change it as I could get a spring for. Unless you're an experienced rusty suspension mechanic with some decent lifting gear I would phone around and get the job done for you. I am puzzled why both springs would go within 10 minutes of each other, I personally would worry a little about it.......

I've just read a strange thread here that seems to have another forum's members stirring it up.......I'm puzzled by these antics. :blink: Rather than fan the flames I'd just like to give you my opinion :D I am was a member of 5 other car forums....none of them Shalaxy related. I've given up on all of them for various reasons. Briefly heres why. 1. A Vauxhall Corsa (d) forum - there was nothing of interest on here, hardly any posts, no technical information, just the odd moan about delivery delay. The forum has since gone tits up 2. A Fiat related forum - I joined trying to find some info about why my Corsa multijet engine is such shit. Forget it, this and other forums are full of "people" congratulating themselves on what a wise decision they made and how they can bling and "tuooone" the motors. They dont accept outsiders and are completely blinded to the truth abot "tuoooning". No technical expertise whatsoever could be detected.... I left due to direct personal insults made after posting some realities about remaps. I wont miss them and I chuckle to myself when I think of the struggle and expense they are gonna pay for that Fiat once the warranty runs out....... 3. A General forum as featured in a well known broadsheet. This has a large hardcore of "we know it all" members, some of who are moderators. Pointless to post anything as your opinion is seldom respected and things I know to be true are always questioned and myths (e.g. the "correct way to run in an engine" myth) are promoted and generated incessantly. They also talk mainly piffle, very little really useful information. Also moderators are trigger happy and dont like anything said about any manufacturer for "legal reasons" (real reasons is loss of boradsheet advertising revenue). 4. A Skoda forum - some (but not much) useful information but hard to find among all the "bling". Of little interest to me as the majority of posts is to do with VRS "mods" and "look at my shiney VRS". 5. A Diesel site - Diesel is God - woe betide anyone who mentions petrol. Completely dominated by an overbearing moderator who likes to get the last word and he can be quite nasty with it too. Only a handful of other members. Most of the talk is about things that are just not true. Also I was lambasted on my opinion of MY own Corsa. I apparently have one of the best, beautiful to drive, excellent engined car ever produced! (I would hate see what a bad car is really like..... ) Complete waste of space. Despite the efforts of a few to throw me, and the same old newbie questions. I think I'll stick with this Galaxy forum for a while. Its got what I want. If anything goes wrong with my Alhambra, if it isnt already here, there are sensible people who are willing to think and help.........

Well.....I didn't realise how much of a slow motion train crash this situation would turn out to be. Many financial institutions (particularly in the USA and UK) have been in the denial phase......... But NOW.........is the the time you have to move quick and make sure you have CASH, and probably a wodge of CASH IN HAND. Do it before some more institutions go under or freeze access to assets....... Review Pensions, Stocks and shares, ISA's, if you have money in an Icelandic bank.........check EVERYTHING The storm has reached hurricane status and it strengthening fast....... Batten down the hatches!!!!!! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Please read your own post :blink: It says Volkswagen VW 501.01, VW 505.00 Its not 505.01 compliant!! Thats why it seem so cheap!!! This is bullshit. The 505.01 has a high shear additive that is to protect the camlobes operating the injectors and the valve gear - the design has very small contact area and much higher than normal operating pressure. Without the necessary protection, wear is inevitable and can be quite rapid - just a few months. It is a proven fact and many cases have been reported. You may be lucky and get away with one period of using a non certified oil (because it has just enough capability of it is a good oil) - but once the oil barrier is compromised, metal to metal contact scores and strips the hardened cam surfaces and its then too late......

Definitely not. You require 505.01 or better. 505.00 is old basic diesel oil. If you want cheap PD Oil then try phoning a local VW/Seat/Skoda dealer and ask for Quantum PD Oil (5l can). (This is Castrol Edge Oil as far as I can tell). IIRC Millers Oil offer good quality but low priced PD oil. Halfords often have 2 for 1 offers which makes their 505.01 full synthetic diesel oil extremely competitive phoine them before you visit and ask.