seatkid

Ah....women......mention two for the price of one, or 1/3 off and they go weak at the knees......... :D 2 batteries for fob,

Top up with diesel next time. :wacko:

Should do but..... Top it up frequently to dilute the petrol (e.g. brim it again today) as you have rather a lot of petrol (15%) in the tank at the moment which is not great. I would recommend you buy some Millers Diesel Sport 4 additive (

For manual (not climate control) systems.

Basically its just finger tight and a little bit more (with a spanner) - take up the slack.....

4.0 Nm is a torque - a rotational force of 4 newtons at one metre or in old fashioned units of approx 3 lb-ft Use a torque wrench if you want to acheive this figure accurately or Finger tight is about 2 Nm so 4 Nm will be a small spanner with a light touch..........

If you've got the parts, any chance you can post a pic of the 4 bits that make up the retainer assembly? The reason I ask, is that as far as I could see on my car (and the TIS pic) there are only 3 bits on mine - Plastic retainer, spring and chassis hook - I'm intrigued where this hex nut goes......

You have either a leaking vacuum pipe or leaking brake vacuum servo. Also possibly a faulty vacuum pump, but this seems rare. Check the pipes first, its quite common to find a split.

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I read that the price of crude is "sliding" fast and will soon be below $100 after Gustav blew himself out. Isn't it wierd that, despite crude falling 45%, that diesel/petrol has only dropped 7 or 8p per litre? And how the energy companies managed to lock in price increases of up to 60% at the "top" of the market? And what about the price of eggs??!

Glad you didnt try scrappy. IMO brakes are too important to use anything but OEM parts. Still think you should have change 4 tyres and not 3........ And don't forget the brake fluid change!

Read the FAQ regarding broken wires in the rubber gaiters to the door. Common problem

1. 3 tyres fitted?? ;) 2. You need that spring and retainer ordering. 3. Hope you got a mechanic to check all brakes front/rear. That back brake looks like gross neglect and chinese pads/discs. 4. That left cable end still looks strange but cant tell as your pics are crap not very clear. I'd check if both sides are operating equally (caliper - lever wise) 5. I'd change your brake fluid too - its probably never been changed

Yes, but there are number of problems. When you get a puncture with a tubed tyre - they deflate almost instantly aka "blowout"- very dangerous Not sure a large reinforced tyre / performance tyre such the Galaxy is safe to tube - ask a senior manager in a tyre fitting centre. Better by far to solve the leaking by finding the leak. Most good tyre fitting centres will help find the cause.

Wrong section Mods - this is a MkII question. If youre sure you checked the fuse then start by removing the radio head and checking for power at the connector to the radio - also look for a switched power feed there (operated by ignition switch). You need the right tools to remove the radio.

Are you sure you don't just have a duff battery?

OK, I think I get the picture. You certainly need the right profile head to fit the recess in the alloy and the same depth of thread in the Galaxy hub as a standard Galaxy bolt would go. The only thing that worries me is that the Gross Laden Weight of a Galaxy is possibly a tonne or even more greater than an A4. The Galaxy requires high load/reinforced tyres (its an insurance requirement) - dont know if alloys are similarly "load rated". Might be worth speaking to someone in TSW technical BTW the bolts on my factory fit alloys (alhambra/skoda/vauxhall) don't have any washers, but I've seen that type on a Renault Laguna.

Problem No.2 is probably a consequence of Problem No.1. I would say you have a problem with the fan thermostat switch.

I think you have a problem - I would say the wheels are not compatible with Galaxy

Flashgordon is correct. You need to get the right bolts that were supplied for the alloys original vehicle application (e.g Audi A4). Then check the thread is the same as the Galaxy. And the length is correct for the Galaxy application. And tell your insurance... there is a chance they will not be happy for you to use wheels from an entirely different model on your Galaxy (due to the far greater loads involved)

Semi synthetic is, by definition, a mix of mineral and synthetic oil. Virtually all modern engine oils (of the type sold for road going cars) are mixable. Depending on what you mix and in what quantities, you end up with a blend that has a grade and characteristic somewhere in between the two oils used. Blending is what the oil companies do to give you the wide range of products that are available! So in brief, yes you can use semi synthetic to top up even though it may contain full synthetic. HOWEVER, ensure you use oil that has the appropriate approval! As flashgordon points out, PD engines require specially formulated oil (VW505.01 or better) mainly to prevent premature wear of the camshaft. IIRC You can add up to 1 litre of certain grades of non PD oil as a topup in an "emergency" - read you vehicle's manual for more detail. Older TDi engines are a better design and are far less fussy about oil.

Looks as if LH rubber seal is split or cut and top bit moving with the inner. RH end looks as if inner was broken and somehow reattached with a curtain hook and a wire clamp/crimp - one good tug and it could come apart. The tape on the threaded bit looks like the bodge I described as a temporary repair. Not a permanent solution as you have now experienced. Only a clearer picture will show for sure - but if this is the maintenance standard of an ebay motor then............ :)

Any update BJ?