seatkid

Millers diesel power sport 4 is excellent. Cleans up injectors etc a treat, and the Cetane boost it gives makes the old diesel purr smoothly and strongly at low revs. It cleaned up my whistling EGR and MOT tests went from a borderline full 3 cycle emission test to a single cycle "fast pass" with impressive low figures. HIGHLY RECOMENDED BY SEATKID!

Try a VW dealer, the 1.9 engine is a VW engine, the same one as in the equivalent Sharan.

You are trying to unscrew it anticlockwise aren't you? Otherwise something is very wrong. My experience of the VAG plastic upright filter housings (Skoda Fabia) is it isnt that tight. (It doesnt need to be as the O ring seal doesnt rely on tightening the housing to form a seal) I use a simple pair of pipe pliers on the large hex head on the housing and it comes off a doddle - much easier than the old screw on cannister type. Oil filters (and housings) must not be over tightened. Plastic housing types are just nipped up lightly when they are fully screwed in. Old style screw on metal cannisters should be spun on until the seal just contacts the mating face, then turn the filter an additional 1/4 turn.

possibly due to lack of use in combination with a slight leak of oil/fluid. Or maybe the sea air..... :ph34r:

Similar to servicing Petrol cars - Oil and Filter change - only bugbear is you need to drop/remove the engine undertray to get to the sump plug. 6 bolts, you need an extension on your 10mm socket to get to the side ones (2 each side) and it a bit of a strech on your back to undo the rear 2. You dont actually have to slide the undertray out as it will drop on the ground and act as a convenient drip tray while you change the oil. Dont forget to put the cover back on, its needed to avoid safety issues (loss of power steering in the wet) Fuel filter is supposed to be changed every 2 years/20,000 miles - I have never bothered - unless you suspect you had poor or dirty fuel or water in the the fuel (theres a drain tap for that) I personally feel that fuel filters can easily go 50,000 miles+. Mines done 50000 without a problem. Air filter doddle to change or clean. Needed every 36,000 miles/3 years. The rest is usual - chack fluid levels coolant/brake/power steering. Check brake condition and wear etc etc. Glow plugs - only replace if you have trouble starting (due to a glow plug failure) - you can change just the faulty one(s) - they go open circuit. Very easy to do (easier than a spark plug. Reset service indicator if it annoys you using the procedure documented in the FAQ (hold trip button, turn on ignition and wait several seconds until service indicator clears)

Clutch release bearing - nothing serious - they usually do that with age, when you press the clutch it loads the bearing and the noise stops. Just the bearing is a little dry. When you eventually need to change the clutch its normal to change the release bearing at the same time. Until then dont worry.

Many years ago I had a door changed on my Passat only 2 weeks before the 6 years ran out. No questions - dealer was excellent. No service history (I serviced myself) and no body checks. Might be different today but if its still with 6 year warranty period, go to dealer post haste and ask warranty manager to inspect and comment (wash the caked on muck and mud off first - try and make it look as if its cared for......) Perforation originating from the inside will automatically qualify for a new panel.

Fuel consumption is not related to airflow which is what the MAF measures. The MAF establishes the maximum fuel quantity that could be injected before emission are exceeded (smoke) i.e. a max power ceiling. When a MAF starts to fail, the ECU thinks the air flow is decreasing so lowers the maximum fuel limit, hence the loss in power. Increasing fuel consumption could be injector problems (dirty!), injection timing, or an EGR problem (clogged) - these last two are usually accompanied with poor power and excessive smoke. Check for simple things like binding brakes (check the rears....) or low tyre pressures.

Mk1 - on trailing edge of door

It means one of the lights in the rear left cluster has blown. Check parking and brake bulbs. Note that there are 2 lamps for parking light per side.

Theres a 6 year body warranty - get it round to a dealer to see if you can claim.

I think the tensioner is hydraulically operated. i.e. you need oil pressure to tension the chain. Low oil pressure could be due to several things A common problem is the oil pickup in the sump. This has a fine mesh on it to protect the oil pump and often this mesh get gunged up and blocked restricting oil flow. Remove the sump and inspect/clean the mesh.

Clean the connectors to the injectors and examine the loom for damage. IIRC one member cleaned his and the stutter went away. Even if a temp repair it will show where the problem is.

Inspector Clouseau solves another case! :lol:

For gods sake , go out and treat it to a new set of brushes or if its too bright and sunny for you to do that B) then buy it a recon alternator. If money doesnt stretch that far, you can build an alternator using some wire and some lengths of 1"x 1" wood - you may have some laying about in the form of an unused boot cover....... :lol: You could also try another blow of WD40 (aided with a lump hammer) to see if you persuade that last 0.1mm of brush to move down the holder... :lol:

Cool it bugzie, I understand you may be stressed.......we don't want to lose members, but bad language and insults are not in order. I know you think you are right, but let me recap. You posted about your clutch and the apparent wide spread belief that flywheels should be ground. I replied to you that they shouldnt, they should be machined if necessary. The story from Mr Clutch just rings of a cowboy approach. I am not aware that there is any belief (and certainly not on this forum) that grinding is desirable or even common. However you apparently chose to ignore my reply and repost the same topic in different words. This is tantamount to spam and hence you got a rough ride from the members. Look, you got screwed by Mr Clutch - if you did a google or posted here before you went and spent your money you probably would have avoided them. After all you could go to somewhere like Rapidfit, and you'll get Ford trained technicians fitting genuine parts at Mr Clutch prices. I have said many times to members - USE THE PHONE (or as they used to sing - let your fingers do the walking....Yellow Pages) New clutches do not need to be bedded in, and they dont judder. But then you didnt say whether your clutch had worn to the point that metal to metal contact took place and damage to the flywheel happened. Dont use childish acronyms - the insults are still insults and hurt contributors (hence the defensive replies) and puts them off continuing.

Please may I stress again, take great care when connecting anything directly to the battery + terminal. Please include an appropriate fuse in the lead. The consequence of not having a fuse there could be dire.

Wierd way to check!..... :(...obviously not an electrician Its sounds as if you have no 12 volts at any of the previously mentioned fuses. I've checked on the TIS and these should all have a permanent live feed. There is a wire (Red/Black) that goes directly from the battery +ve terminal to fuse 55 via connector C815 pin 7 on the CJB (see diagram above). The possibilities are 1. The wire at the battery +ve end is disconnected or has a bad/loose crimp 2. The wire at connector C815 pin7 has dropped off/broken or the pin/socket has been pushed back or something like that. 3. The wire/connector to fuse 55 has been pushed back/broken or something like that. 4. The red/black wire from the battery to the CJB is broken or has burnt open circuit due to short or fault/incorrect fuse. As a temporary test measure , you can connect a wire from fuse 55 to the battery positive terminal. For safety sake include a fuse of some desription in the wire. Then you can check if your missing functions spring back to life. Take extra care when connecting anything directly to the battery terminals as if there is a short, very large currents can flow causing wires to catch fire etc.

Please elaborate - whats a negative feed? With the ignition on there should be +12 volts on all terminals of F51,F52,F53,F54,F55. (Meter negative lead connected to gnd/chassis - range set to 20volts or above)

I would first check track rod end ball joints for play (should be none). Could be CV joints - try a search.

Individual coilpaks are the bits that sits directly on the plugs there is no HT lead. Just a low voltage plug/loom that connects to each coilpak. They look something like this:- VW had a recall on early (2002/2003) engines as a lot of paks were popping. Chances are one of yours has gone - they dont seem to like feeding spark plugs that have gone past their replace by date (the gap gets too large and the extra voltage reqd to spark pops the pak). You can check by pulling the low volt lead of each pak in turn and start the car briefly to see if it is worse. If not then you found the fauty pak/plug, if yes then replace lead and try the next one. You can get a tool to pull the paks out but those I've tried (not a V6 mind) just need careful screwdriver leverage and a good tug to pull out. You WILL need a proper spark plug wrench to get the plugs out (GSF do excellent ones at about

You should not post multiple threads about the same problem, this is confusing and you wont get good advice by spreading the symptoms thinly between multiple threads. What do you mean by starting problems? If the car wont turn over, its not relay 30 as this is the fuel pump relay.

Check Fuse 55 (5A), it feeds the fuses for all those functions you mention F51,F52,F53,F54 which strangely are much higher rated fuses. Its located in the CJB (Central Junction box) - don't know which level though (3 level affair). If the fuse is OK, check you have 12volts there with the ignition on.

Flattery will get you nowhere with these guys..... :lol: Resetting the ECU simply involves disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes. BEFORE you do this, make sure you have the radio security code as the radio will need to be reset afterwards.

:lol: I'm working on the case and my preliminary diagnosis is.....yes it could be serious! But after a while I thought.......but then again it might not....... As Robot from Lost in Space used to say.... "insufficient data" "There's a nasty metallic sound" isn't exactly a detailed description. People on this forum expect posters to at least have got up off there arse and had a look around and post at least something like...... "There's a nasty metallic sound coming from my rear nearside brake" If you want, you can use the forum as an online reference, but don't expect people to devote hours, trying to hold your hand.....