seatkid

No such engine exists! If its a diesel it should be a 1.9L. Could be 115, 130 or 150bhp. The TCS - Turbo Control Solenoid (N75) is located behind a heatshield on the engine bulkhead behind the EGR valve

Its nothing to do with PATS or key. If your car has been slow turning over and now wont turn over at all, check your battery first (its duff or flat due to a charging fault) and then your starter motor.

Mk1 90bhp 1Z,AHU = Wastegaste, 110bhp AFN = VNT Personally, if you have to remove the turbo to use this product, I don't see the point. A couple of cans of carburettor cleaner from Toolstation at

I think its still likely to be a seized alternator pulley. On certain engines (IIRC those fitted with a DMF, which have a light main flywheel), at low speeds/ cold engine, the crankshaft speed is not constant during a revolution. Because of the large inertia of the alternator rotor, VW introduced a freewheelling pulley to stop it exaggerating the variation in tension of the belt during each revolution. The result of a seized freewheel being that the tensioner cant cope and so it jumps around. Do the test on the alternator pulley first before changing the tensioner or roller. Remove the belt use something to hold the rotor, then check the pulley is free to rotate in one direction and drives the rotor in the other.

I did get the errors reset. The MAF was from a car spares center - Bosch replacement. Not sure what the 1166 error means 1166 Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Rich Limit Exceeded I "think" this means that the ECU can no longer trim (zero and FSD) the values its sees from the MAF, i.e. the MAF output is out of range. There are many different variants of MAF sensors for every different engine variant. Its important to get exactly the right one. What was this "car spares center"? Sounds as if it was a scrapyard. Many MAF sensors are already buggered when cars are scrapped. It would explain why limp mode is now permanent. Is the turbo vane actuator accessible and any idea if there is a quick test I can carry out. Errm yes, sort of....Do a search and you will find many threads with different approaches to tackling this common problem. Symptoms are the car trips into limp mode when trying to accelerate hard, only resettable by switching ignition off and restarting.

Again, thanks for all the comments, I'll take up Chris's logical suggestion and try it without the belts, but it'll have to wait until we get a decent spell of weather combined with some spare time, a good mood and not having to look after the grandkids. (It may be some time :huh: ) I'll post my findings - who knows - I might even make a "How to Change Aux/PAS Belts guide" :rolleyes:

Did you reset the errors after you changed the MAF etc? 1166 Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Rich Limit Exceeded Check the MAF was replaced with the correct type/part no. You didnt get it from fleabay did you? 1557 Charge Pressure Contr. Positive Deviation Either turbo vacuum control pipework leaking or turbo vane actuator sticking

If the garage is adamant that the stamps are forgeries and not theirs, take the matter up with Ford, who should be able to examine both dealer computer records and the authenticity of the stamps. Most stamps have security codes embedded that trace where they came from. And, certainly in VAG, the stamp codes change at least once a year, so if your stamps are all identical it looks like someone has obtained a stamper illegally and made up a false record. With all the evidence you should then approach the seller and ask them to explain. Unless you are happy with the fairy story they give you, or the money they give back, the next stop is either trading standards or the police.

Thanks lads. No offence Gregs, just me having a dig at myself, seems no-one understands my sense of humour - especially my wife!! :unsure: Will be reading up on your suggestions over the next few days.

Do I detect just a little :lol: Gregs?? :o :lol: I'm getting a little too old and tired for this DIY lark. Looking for easy options, only problem is that a lot of problems with my cars in the past started after going to a garage for "repairs". :unsure: Just checked, my 120A alternator 0123515014 does not have a one way clutch so eliminating that possibility! :lol: (BTW a brand new alternator costs £124....)

Thanks for the replies so far. It was suggested to me by a local indy today (working from my description and not actually hearing it) that its probably the one way clutch on the alternator. However, I thought the one-way clutch was only fitted to Mk2 PD engined cars. Am I right? :unsure: He quoted around £50 for the clutch pulley and another £50 labour to change plus VAT, :o :lol: :lol: :lol:

Not that am I aware of, the a/c is a bit noisy as its running low on gas and that drowns out the noise. Not sure if its related, but for a couple of years, when the engine is lukewarm, as I accelerate hard, there is is a loud shhhhh as I go through a certain rev band (around 1900-2500rpm IIRC) peaking and dies down as the revs increase - which is why asked about the EGR valve. Its not there cold or hot though and only noticeable when I floor the throttle.

My vehicle is a MK1 late 98 AHU 90 bhp diesel, 120k Over the last year or so been getting a "thats never been there before" noise from my engine thats getting louder by the month. It's engine speed related, definitley something on the engine itself, not transmission etc. Most noticeable at around 2000 rpm - it gets louder with engine revs but gets drowned out at higher engine speeds. I can hear it in the cabin as well as under the bonnet. Description: Sounds like a shot or dry bearing noise with a lot of random chatter thrown in - definitely not a healthy sound, like something could fall to bits soon! Its a white noise kind of sound and not a whining, groaning or other frequency/tonal type noise. Location: Difficult to pin down but seems significantly louder from the back of the engine. Could it be: 1. Water pump - do the bearings ever get noisy without loss of water etc? 2. Aux belt tensioner - doesnt seem to be from that area though. 3. Is there a (replacable) idler roller in addition to the tensioner on the cambelt? I'm not sure if that was replaced when the cambelt was changed at 75k 4. Can the EGR valve make strange noises? I'm fairly sure its not the alternator, power steering pump or a/c pulley. When the engine is switched off (hot) I can hear the usual faint whistle of the turbo winding down smoothly so I dont think theres anything wrong with the turbo. Any comments appreciated!

Only common when employing a ham fisted moron. <_< <_<

If you are using IE (Microsoft Internet Explorer), the FAQs dont work. IE is a broken browser that doesnt work with a lot of forums. Install and use a different browser, such as Firefox, Google Chrome or Opera. My recommendation is Firefox as then you can use the Adblock Plus add-on which give you a surfing experience free of intrusive advertising.

If you've changed the caliper (which is often the culprit due to internal corrosion of the parking brake mechanism) then next change the short cable going going the caliper, these cables corrode internally causing them to seize.

Check the leads resistance they may have broken internally. Just because you dont expect the coil pak to be faulty doesnt mean it isnt. The only way to rule it out is to change it for a known good one. Check all vacuum pipes for air leaks, the main vacuum pipe often splits at the servo end and at the end going into the manifold.

?? whats a lmm?? Stuttering on a petrol is 90% likely an ignition issue. As you have already changed the plugs, I suggest you look at the leads and the unchanged coil paks. Its common for the insulation to break down with age. Maybe you'll be able to see them tracking in the dark. and finally, welkom!

How much is some? Dont over fill the header tank above the max mark and unless it dips say more than 1 cm below the min mark I wouldnt top it up. The air passes through the heater matrix first and then through the a/c evaporator. There is drainage under the evaporator to under the car to allow condensed water to escape (two small rubber pipes located at the bottom of the bulkhead IIRC). It is possible that a small leak will never make its way onto the carpet. On the other hand remember the header tank is located not far from the air intake (pollen filter) albeit there should be a scuttle seal between them. Check the header tank is not leaking from the cap etc before jumping to the conclusion that the matrix is gone. Also check you dont have a saturated or blocked pollen filter, this can lead to smelly air. Swapping the heater matrix out is a two day dash strip down for an experienced mechanic, so radweld or similar may be worth a go.

Yup, sounds like a flat or duff battery.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0165-muscle.gif I think you may need to check your blood pressure Zorg.http://www.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0153-brokenheart.gif Btw, how do you fix noisy bearings on a water pump? http://www.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0122-itwasntme.gif ....Just kidding..... :rolleyes: Dynamic IP addresses....dont you just love em... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0127-lipssealed.gif

IIRC For AUY (110bhp variable vane turbo) this sounds right. At low revs max vacuum is applied to move the actuator to max boost position. First check the boost pipework and intercooler for leaks (holes/splits or more likely bad joints with damaged or missing O rings), particularly those pipes that were removed during the turbo change. You should be able to hear or feel any boost leakage. I have read adjustment is possible on the actuator rod, it may be that its not going far enough to the boost side, also check the vacuum thingy that moves the actuactor is correctly assaembled/mounted, it may be too far back not allowing the rod to the full on position.

Go back to VW or SEAT dealer and ask for gearbox oil for Auto V6 2.8 litre SHARAN or ALHAMBRA - it is the same box - however 2001 should be a 5 SPEED box (AG5), 4 speed boxes (AG4) were fitted to Mk1 models (up to production year mid 2000) Alternatively ring GSF Carparts - they should be able to help.

Not a good idea to use WD40 it will dilute the oil with its mix of various solvents none of which is a lubricant of any note. Has the oil/filter been changed on time? I would be inclined to whip the rocker cover and see if the camlobes are being lubed, an examination of the inside of the cover will reveal if the oil services have been skipped or poor cheap oil used (loads of hard carbon build up) Alternatively try some flushing (thin) oil or use cleaning additives such as forte Its known for the pickup gauze in the sump to sometimes get blocked up with crud leding to low oil pressure.