seatkid

Just looked it up, Eolys and Adblue are completely different things. Eolys is citreon/peugot/ford's solution to DPF (FAP) regeneration, which burns off the trapped diesel particulates (soot) in a controlled fashion. VAG and other manufacturers use a late injection technique to force unburnt diesel into the exhaust to acheive the same end, but without the need for an extra tank and injection system. Adblue, on the other hand, is a Urea based system which is used to reduce Nox emissions, as required by upcoming Euro VI regulations. Already widely used in HGV engines to meet their Euro regs, it looks likely to be required on most if not all new diesel cars when Euro VI comes into force. So citreon may potentially have both Eolys and Adblue in the future.

So its spraying neat diesel into your cat/exhaust? :unsure: Wont that make the DPF get red hot or is the volume not enough? :unsure: - in any case I'm sure it wont do it any good. :blink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-sZoYfdGrA Procedure Bearing kit

Cant do that by law. You still have a warranty by law if he is a trader. Not being able to select gear when engine running and can do when engine off indicates clutch is not fully disengaging. Last thread I remember reading with this problem had a partly broken clutch release arm mount inside the bell housing. Do a search, its here somewhere.

In my (feeble) opinion that would make the drivers side wheel bearing the main suspect. Think that would involve changing the complete hub. Failing wheel bearings make noises under axial load (i.e. when turning sharply) thats probably why they cant pick it up when the car's lifted. If I were you, I'd leave to get somewhat louder and more obvious. Last wheel bearing failure I experienced (on the Fabia) was a rumble/grinding vibration - initially worried it was tyres or expensive gearbox/final drive failure. Undertaking the roundabout test identifies the side. Louder turning right indicates passenger side, and vice versa. You need to go at some speed to load the bearings up.

No such thing as a 115tdi 1998 Alhambra. Do you mean a 110bhp (AFN) 1998 or a 115bhp PD post 2000 model - completely different gearboxes. Why not download a copy of the Ford TIS CD, just google it, AFAIK there are only older versions available that run only on Windows 9x and not XP/Win7 but I might be wrong. That has detailed workshop procedures for removing and replacing gearboxes etc with plenty of diagrams.

Has it been resprayed? On my Mk1 in the rear compartment drivers side is a sticker with all the build codes for the car including paint code - dont ask which field the paint code is cos I cant remember.

Agreed, classic MAF sensor failure symptom. If you unplug your MAF sensor, and it runs better or no worse it sort of confirms that the MAF sensor is likely to be duff (but not always!) A few claim that removing the sensor from its housing and cleaning with a good solvent has given then back a working sensor, but it didnt work for me and others. Best if you can swap it out for a known good one. Beware if you get one that it is the correct one for your engine / model year as several are used and they cant be interchanged.

Don't know - someone else will have to come along with that info - I may look it up later if I have time.

Are they all dead? including the wing repeaters? Not even dash or hazrd switch lights? Most likely will be a fuse but I would whip a bulb just to make sure its OK (test with a meter - not just by looking) I have known 2 or bulbs go leading me around on wild goose chases. Note that the manual and labels in the car are often wrong regarding fuse location.

I presume as it heats up it goes up steadily until it reaches 130? IIRC your year and engine were fitted with water pumps with plastic impellers. In time the plastic impeller detaches from the shaft and doesnt spin as intended. New water pump to fix. Or does the gauge go to 130 immediately your switch on when cold? - that would be an electrical fault, possibly the water temperature sensor is faulty or the connector has become disconnected.

Most likely that something is laid on the resistor pack, maybe a wire. The pack gets stinking hot during operation and this would melt insulation on wires or plastics causing the smell. Also, I'm not sure, but the pack should be fixed to a steel bracket or bodywork which should act as a heatsink - did you reinstall as original? Strip and inspect.

Dear o dear, you posted about this back in October and still no joy? No disconnecting the battery does not not cause the engine to go into limp home mode. I'm confused, why are you talking about limp home mode if the engine wont start? Limp home mode is a reduced power mode that is triggered when there is a fault that affects fuelling e.g. a faulty MAF sensor - but limp home mode does NOt affect starting which should be normal. Apart from non starting, are there any other symptoms such as no dash lights etc. FIRST, check there is really some fuel in the tank - dont rely on the dash gauge - I know of many people who struggled for days only to find their fuel tank was really empty. Then check your fuses - the fuses associated with the ignition and engine management. If the engine doesnt start, I presume you have also gone through the ususal checks of checking for sparks at the spark plugs etc. 90% of non start issues with petrol engines are down to the ignition system. Spark plugs, leads,coil paks. Have you checked the fuel is reaching the injectors, i.e. the fuel pump is working. Relay 30 is the usual suspect, this controls the fuel pump and is a common failure, often working sporadically before giving up completely. To locate relay 30, check out the Technical FAQs section. The PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) consists of a transponder chip housed in your key, a reader built into the steering column near the ignition barrel and the ECU. Every time you turn your key the ECU interogates the reader to see if the transponder chip in your key has the correct code. The usual fault with PATS is when you lose the PATS chip , when you change the batteries in a remote fob it is all too easy to open the key and not notice the PATS chip (a small back/grey rectangular cube) drop out! Without this chip it is impossible to start the car. In this case you either find the chip or use another key. If your key is a standard non remote type, you should be alright as the key cant open. There have been one or two reports of a faulty reader coil, but this is rare and usually associated with someone taking the column apart for some reason. Mr Clutch have a very bad reputation both here and in the states. When they changed your clutch, it is quite possible they damaged or pull apart a wiring loom or connector. Only a tedious visual inspection will be able to find this. In summary - 1st check you have fuel, then the fuses, check for sparks (coil pak failures are common), checkout relay 30, then check the fuel system is delivering. I believe youve already changed relay 30 (was it new and are you sure it was really relay 30 you changed?)

Yup, the Mk1 models shut down after 3 failed attempts but dont lock out so turning off the ignition will reset it. Mk2 models unfortunately lock out after a number of failed attempts and have to be reset via diagnostics, vagcom or whatever. Thats progress for you.

Are you bragging? :rolleyes: Yours is a Mk2 1.9PD, and yes Nick there was a 90bhp version as well as the normal 115bhp, 130bhp, and later a 150bhp version. Mk1 1.9Tdi 90bhp (1Z and AHU) definitely have 1 big fan. Whereas yours has 2 weeny fans. :P

Firstly there is no such thing as a 1997 2.0 Diesel, it must be 1.9Tdi either 90bhp or 110bhp. As the 90bhp has only one cooling fan I assume it must be the 110 bhp AFN engine. When the a/c is turn on (or on Auto if climate control), the fan(s) should come on at half speed by default. This keeps the a/c condensor cool and operating efficiently. When you swith a/c off (or to ECON on climate control), the fans should stop, unless the engine temperature is excessive. Glow plug light flashing indicates a fault detected by the ECU. As you cured it by spraying WD40 on the brake switch, the fault is almost certainly the dual brake switch. These often go faulty or out of adjustment. It is actually 2 switches that should operate together - one is for the brake lights and the other (via the ECU) controls other things such as disengaging the cruise control. If both switches dont agree, it registers a fault and cruise should stop working. If the problem comes back, you may need to adjust or replace the brake switch. Note that the brake switch fitted is dependant on egine and model year.

Remote FOBs all seem to die of old age. No solution to this except buy a new one. Most of the window/door locking problems are almost certainly down to damaged (broken/shorted) wiring in the rubber gaitors to the doors/tailgate. The insulation on the wiring at these points goes brittle and flakes off leaving the cores exposed and oxided. The cores either break or short together. See the technical FAQ for full details and pics. (3 threads) As daddyfixit says also check the engine bay fuse box for signs of overheating (faulty crimps) and also the battery ps. if you change the batteries in your FOB do be very careful not to lose the PATS chip in the FOB, this has a tendency to fall out when the FOB is opened. Without the chip you wont be able to start the car!

Not sure but I think the new rules just introduced include damaged rubbers on ball joints - but I would have thought that to mean track rod ends and not arb links. The emmisions are simple, the machine measures the smoke, the results and working out are printed along with the limits on your test results sheet. They will test up to 3 times and work out the average figure which is compared to the limit. Often an "italian tune up" before a vist to an MOT station is all thats required to squeeze the old Tdi through. DO a search on "italian tune up" if you dont understand.

I would imagine the connector is a special made for ford or vw. 1. Its likely they can only supply a complete new loom. 2. A competent electrician/technician should be able to cut out the bad part of the loom and rewire using the existing plug. 3. Alternatively if they remove a pin from the plug they may be able to match up with various pins from connector suppliers like farnell, rs etc as well as the connector manufacturers. 4. Or cut off both plug and sockets and rewire with plugs/sockets or your choice, making sure to thoroughly document the connections before undertaking the task. 5. Keep looking for a scrapyard/ebay loom. You'll have to decide the cost/risk of each approach yourself.

Make sure you have the correct bulbs in the correct way round. Each light cluster has two bulbs, one 5w single filament , the other is a dual filament 5/21W with offset pins - make sure this bulb is inserted the correct way round. Both bulbs should be lit when the parking/headlights are on. i.e. a total of 6 bulbs lit at the back when parking lights are on if you include the number plate lights. Check both number plate lights (5W each) are working and all brake lights are working fully. - One each side plus high level light. Please note LED replacements will trigger the warning as they dont take the correct current.

The anti roll bar (arb) is a long steel torsion bar that goes from one side of the vehicle to the other. It is connected to the suspension at both sides via the arb droplinks. The front arb is fitted across the car along the bottom of the engine bulkhead and is held in place by two U mounts. The mounts on the arb have rubber bushes that allow the arb to rotate without banging about. These bushes perish with time. There is also an arb on the rear suspension again with two bushes/mounts but no drop links as they connect directly to the trailing arms. The arb's restrict the left/right relative suspension movement when going round corners, stopping the car leaning or rolling excessively. The bushes are easy to see, just remove the wheel and follow the arb around from the bottom of the droplink to where it goes into the engine bay. An inspection / squirt of wd40 on them should prove if they are to blame. The attached photo shows the droplink, the arb is connected to the bottom of the droplink. Arb droplinks can also make all sorts of sounds (but predominently banging/knocking), it is difficult to check a droplink in situ as they can be under load if the car is not level and even the smallest wear in the ball joints gives rise to noise out of all proportion.

I have a type 017TE fitted (8 years old now and still going but starting to get a bit weak) - thats the largest battery that will physically fit in the tray. Acording to battery selectors, type 019 and type 096 also fit but are smaller/lower capacity. The 075 battery is a very small battery thats only suitable for petrol engines, you will find it struggling and short lived in a diesel.

Take another careful look at the wires in the door gaitors. You need to check the passenger side as well as the drivers. Do all windows work on global opening/closing? (using the key in the door locks held in unlock/lock positions) I would say as far as the drivers only working to open, to remove the door card and examine the wiring in the door for broken wires/terminals. There is no window relay AFAIK.