seatkid

We've seen it time and time again..... Misdiagnosis of top strut mounts, not appreciating the "floating" design. Good luck removing the top nuts - they are buggers to remove if rusted up. Of course the logical thing to do, is to change the droplinks (20 mins per side), then take it for a test drive and when you realise the problem has gone, either take those strut bearings back or put them away for another day....

It'll be something like "No.3 Injector" Fords will be a horrendous price, Try VW (Sharan) or Seat (Alhambra) dealers usually a lot cheaper with some dealers offering 30% discount for "old cars" Alternativley give GSF car parts a ring they can source most parts and will be the cheapest. But why change the injector/sensor (its a single unit)? You've already proven that its fine and only problem is the wiring - that can easily be fixed.

GSF Car Parts are getting me a Laser 4948 Tensioning tool (

You had a short, possibly a loom rubbing on a sharp metal edge. But now you have a damaged loom with potentially a number of wires damaged. Only remedy is to strip down and examine the area where the smoke seemed to come from, find any damaged wires and either fix or cry. Write out 100 times I must never replace a fuse with one of a higher than recommended rating.

UPDATE: Nice weathers duped me into having a go. It was scary the amount of tension the roller has on the belt, no way just a screwdriver leverage job to lift it, I ended putting a 13 mm ring spanner on the tensioner roller securing bolt and improvised an extension with a long torque wrench (theres not enough room for a socket on the bolt). After the bolt tightening a fair bit finally released the belt and then let the tensioner go down to its vertical position and removed the roller. The alternator and a/c pulley are both sweet and quiet. THe roller makes the kind of noise I'm hearing if I spin the centre whilst holding the roller, but is a lot quieter when holding the centre and spinning the roller. Also a fair bit of play in the bearing so hopefully this is the culprit. Tomorrow i'll get a new roller from GSF (£22) but has anyone got any tips how I should lever the darned tensioner back up so I can get the belt on. I could use the bolt method again, but that will involve putting a lot of stress on the roller bearing as the bolt will tighten up. I somehow feel I'm doing something wrong.... Eeek! :D just found this I would have guessed a special tool was involved. Any ideas folks?

Do you really think the Lambda probe has gone bust during the time you had the head off last?? :D I really dont understand why you assume your marks and settings etc are correct. Follow the TIS procedure and set No.2 TDC (use a rod in the spark plug hole to get No.2 piston crown at tdc) and make sure the factory marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head. As the problem only came on after your last head reassembly, its a good bet the timing is out and the symptoms are appropriate. Dont use the crankshaft pulley as an indicator - they can slip on the crank.

Check the wiring in all four rubber gaitors to the doors, also the rubber gaitors on the tailgate. The insulation on the wiring goes brittle and drops off and wires short or break. See Tech FAQ for 3 threads on the subject. (requires a browser that isnt IE - which doest work)

Really? :) Well, here is a picture of my engine. Look closely at no3 injector and you will notice it is much larger than the others and has a wire coming out from the top to the right.

Check the wiring to No 3 Injector - the needle lift sensor is part of No 3 injector. This sensor controls injection timing and problems here will cause limp mode at the very least.

Flashing glow plug light plus cruise not working often points to a faulty/misadjusted brake light switch (its more than just a brake light switch) see faqs. VAGCOM would confirm. A faulty brake light switch wouldnt cause the engine to cut out however, although it can cause the engine to resort to idle speed under cetain circumstances, overriding the accelerator pedal. Note Cruise control on TDI is electronic, no piping involved. A/c not blowing cold - usually due to lack of gas - in this case the climatronic panel would flash for 15 seconds on start up to indicate a fault, if not then you need to check fuses and look for 12v at the connection to the compressor. To turn a/c on select AUTO on the panel, the main engine cooling fan(s) should turn on at half speed and the compressor clutch should engage (clunk) Window problems are usually associated with perished wiring in door gaitors (see FAQ) Heated passenger seat - check fuses then the connector under the seat - otherwise its the seat pad usually gone o/c - expensive to replace if you really need this feature. Rear fan, check fuses.

I guess you can check the timing by refering to step 15 above. 15. Rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction until piston No. 2 is on TDC. Make sure the marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head

1. CAUTION: Fully or partially released timing chain tensioners must not be used (whether new or used). Check the new timing chain tensioner. 2. CAUTION: Install a new timing chain tensioner. Install the timing chain tensioner. 3. Note: The single copper colored link must be at the lower end of the chain guide. Install the timing chain and the timing chain guide. (Using a suitable piece of wire, prevent the timing chain from dropping into the timing case.) 4. Install the timing chain guide upper retaining bolt. 5. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02». 6. Note: The copper link of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing sprocket. Install the timing chain. 7. Tighten the timing chain guide lower retaining bolt. 8. Lower the vehicle. 9. CAUTION: Prevent the retaining washer from dropping into the timing case. Install the timing chain tensioner. (1) Using a M6 x 60 bolt, install the timing chain tensioner pivot bolt. (2) Install the retaining washer. 10. CAUTION: The camshaft sprockets must locate in the slots on the camshaft. Note: The copper links of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket. Note: The timing chain must be taut on the long side. Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the timing chain. (If necessary rotate the camshaft slightly.) 11. Note: The copper links of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets. Note: The timing chain may hang down slightly between the camshaft sprockets. Install the inlet camshaft sprocket and the timing chain. 12. Tighten both camshaft sprocket retaining bolts finger tight. 13. Using a suitable brass drift, release the timing chain tensioner. 14. Using the special tool, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts. 15. Rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction until piston No. 2 is on TDC. (Make sure the marks on the camshaft sprockets face one another exactly on level with the upper edge of the cylinder head.) 16. CAUTION: If the timing chain had to be removed while adjusting the valve timing, a new timing chain tensioner must be installed. Check the valve timing. (Rotate the crankshaft one revolution in its normal direction and set it to the marks) 17. Note: Install a new timing chain upper guide. Install the timing chain upper guide. 18. Note: Make sure piston No. 2 is on TDC. Note: The copper link of the timing chain must align with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing sprocket and on the balancer shaft sprocket. Install the oil pump chain. 19. Install the oil pump chain guides. 20. WARNING: Wrap the flutes of the drill bit with a suitable tape. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Install the oil pump chain tensioner. (Install the oil pump chain tensioner retaining bolt) (Remove the drill bit.) 21. Note: A new lower front cover is supplied with an alignment sleeve that must be removed following installation. Install the lower front cover (12 bolts). 22. Remove the alignment sleeve. 23. Attach the power steering line to the engine. 24. Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley. 25. Using three M8 x 25 bolts, attach the special tool to the crankshaft pulley. 26. Using the special tools and two M8 x 30 bolts,, tighten the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt in two stages. Stage 1: 52 Nm. Stage 2: 85 degrees. 27. Install the accessory drive belt. 28. Lower the vehicle. 29. Install the lower front cover retaining bolts (four bolts). 30. Note: Install a new gasket. Note: Align the upper edge of the upper cover with the cylinder head mating face (maximum downward offset = 0.13 mm) Install the upper front cover. 31. Note: Install a new gasket. Install the valve cover (4 nuts and 11 bolts). Tighten the nuts bolts in the sequence shown in two stages. Stage 1: Tighten nuts and bolts 1 through 15 to 3 Nm. Stage 2: Tighten nuts and bolts 1 through 15 to 9 Nm. 32. Connect the CMP sensor electrical connector. 33. Install the engine support plate. 34. Install the engine front mounting. 35. Install the engine support plate bracket. 36. Install the engine front mounting bracket and connect the ground cable to the mounting bracket. Install the bolts. Install the nut. Connect the ground cable. 37. Remove the special tools. 38. Install the hood. For additional information, refer to «Section 501-02». 39. Attach the generator wiring harness support guide to the cylinder head. 40. Using a suitable blunt object to avoid damage to the spark plug connector gasket, coat the inside of the spark plug connector with silicone grease to a depth of 5-10 mm. 41. CAUTION: Connect the spark plug wires in line with the spark plugs. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. 42. Install the spark plug cover. 43. Install the bulkhead cover. 44. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe. 45. Install the air cleaner. For additional information, refer to «Section 303-12». 46. Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01». 47. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02». 48. Install the engine undershield (two nuts and four bolts). 49. Lower the vehicle.

Sharan Carat (equivalent to Ghia) had them as an option, at least in MK1 form. My Mk1 Seat Alhambra has all the floor mountings fitted for both 6 and 7 seat variants.

OK, looking at your pic you need this I'll be most surprised if GSF cant offer you one cheaper. Just a thought, although I didnt read the austrailian webpage fully, do you not think that the tensioner can be reset by twisting the piston relative to the barrel whilst compressing? A bit like rear brake calipers......

Maybe this Austrailian site might help ford 2.3 chain tensioner available here Failing that, have you tried GSF car parts - give them a ring.

As suggested earlier and a last effort, why not remove the caliper/pads and wind the piston out a few turns,ratchet the handbrake 3 or 4 times (you should be able to observe if the piston moves), then wind back in taking care to leave at say one turn to spare.

Why do you need a new tensioner? Didnt you change it not long ago?

You need to apply /release handbrake several times to ratchet in the parking mech. I have used penetrating oil and WD 40 to free a sticky pivot, just make sure to get behind the rubber protective cover on the pivot to allow the oil to flow in. The parking mech is prone to severe rusting internally causing it to stick or not adjust. I saw pics of one stripped down some time back on a German website.

Agree 100% with sparkypaul - check your timing.

Oh yeah... those days everything seemed so simple and so much room........ :) I take it you tested the pulley then and satisfied yourself thats the problem? From what I've read it seems that getting the pulley off can be quite a job. Local indie quoted

IIRC Two posidrive screws to remove the black trim on the cluster. Then 4 screws around cluster, pull cluster out.

1.9tdi actually. Search for aux heater or booster heater. Also in the Tech FAQ's (doesnt work with IE, requires Firefox,Chrome,or Opera) Usually the glowplug has gone. Lots of threads on how to change this if you search. Can be disabled by pulling the thermoswitch (located just above the pollen filter) or pulling a fuse (I don't which one) You need your car year to ascertain what fuse it is.

:blink: Howabout check your (front) wheels/tyres are balanced correctly, at the same time inspect for tyres for damage/bulges etc. Front passenger side might be a clue -_- :blink: If not the above, check tie rod ends for wear/play.

-_- Well I think you could be wasting your money......IIRC you dont need PATS to turn the car over, the PATS just inhibits the ECU ignition/fuelling. And PATS is not known to lose coding. Have you checked your engine battery with a voltmeter?? (the big one in the engine bay - not the key!!). It could also be the starter motor solenoid, wiring to the starter motor, or the ignition key switch.