seatkid

Use any oil that meets 505.01. That is the important spec for PD engines. Do not confuse with 505.00 which is NOT to be used with PD engines under any circumstance! 507.00 spec oil also meets 505.01 but is a very expensive longlife oil designed for modern VW CR engines under the longlife (upto 30k/2year) variable service regime for VW CR engines. PD engines do not support the variable service regime so you must change at 10,000 miles/1year intervals. So why waste money? 5/30W oils will give you a small (around 3%) benefit in fuel economy over 5/40W. Full synth is better than semi-synth which in turn is better than mineral oil. Quantum Synta Platinum 5/40W is a VAG product fully synthetic PD oil sold by most VW dealers at around

The cluster in my Mk1 came out very easy, IIRC you remove the black trim around the Cluster (a couple of screws I think) and then its obvious how the cluster itself is fixed/removed. Dont recall any rubber bits... (maybe someone jammed them in to try and stop some elusive rattling :unsure: )

You might find the code on a sticker on the timing belt cover, on a build sticker in the rear storage compartment where the jack is housed (on the wing), on a sticker in your service booklet or sometimes as part of the engine no. on your V5 document. Look for a 3 digit code 150bhp - ARL or BTB 130bhp - ASZ or BLT 115bhp - AUY or BVK n.b. Engine codes changed during 2005! Phone GSF, they will take your reg. and can look up your engine and exact part required.

Not sure how to take that comment... :unsure: I know very little about auto boxes... Could be a wiring/plug problem, worn out brake band(s), low oil level or sensor issue. Possibly a VAGOM/diagnostic scan will throw up an error code.

Has the ECU been remapped or re flashed at any time? It means the internal program is corrupt either due to component failure, a dry joint or someone messing about remapping. Try resetting the fault with VAGCOM, it may have been a transient fault.

When I had a leak it was from the fuel filter drain tap, did you remove it completely. Chances are you put it back in cross thread. I tightened mine so much, it snapped while driving down the road spilling all the diesel and stopping the car. I dont think you need to bleed anything in the fuel system. It does take a fair bit of cranking until all the air is purged. Just keep the starter going while its hiccupps and splutters until you can finally rev the engine.

You are probably using Internet Explorer 8+, this forum and many other forums dont work correctly with Internet Explorer. Do yourself a favour and install Firefox, Google Chrome or Opera and see what the internat should really look like! (With adblock plus installed cutting out all those ads!)

I think thats the multi CD player connector.

Yeah its called the Faqs, Common Questions And Solutions section

The MAF sensor doesnt give any codes - its calibration drifts into oblivion and the ECU cannot detect whether the output is valid or not. On the other hand under/over boost trips due to faulty (vacuum) pipework or turbo control do give codes - but I think it'll be unlikely thats the problem in your case.

The MAF sensor comes complete with housing - easy to take off One or two people claim to have cleaned the MAF sensor with success. It didnt work for me or plenty or others. If you insist on cleaning, then extract the sensor from the side of the housing.

Its much more likely its a duff MAF sensor. If you get a new one, make sure its the right one for your engine. We have cases on the forum of people buying from fleabay and even Eurocarparts and thinking they eliminated the sensor - but they got a wrong/not working one. They are about £90 from dealers (phone around - VW seem cheapest), I would also try GSF provided they can guarantee its the correct part no. If yours is a 110bhp, the vane actuator may be "sticky" and needs cleaning. 90bhp have a fixed geometry turbo and dont have a vane actuator. Try the MAF sensor first.

Its a duff/flat battery you got there and maybe thats been the problem all along. :wacko: Solenoids only work within a narrow voltage range. BTW if you remove the piston/spring you'll probably find you cant turn the engine off! Make sure you dont get any dirt in there either......

First check its not because the overload/trapped object protection isnt tripping - assist the window with your hands - pulling it up or down while operating the switch - if it starts working then it indicates maybe the mechanism is stiff or jammed. If not then check the switch - maybe swap it for the passenger side and try.

Your going too fast for me! Not a good idea to remove solenoid methinks, I'd be inclined to test in situ. I think 300mA is probably not enough. Similar problem/solution here! Signing off for now....good luck.

Be very very careful if you run a direct feed - I dont know if this is the solenoid - I take no responsibilty - also make sure your direct feed is fused.

I think chris is smoking something gregs..... :rolleyes:

In my experience a motor either works or it doesnt. I would check your switches and wiring first before you jump in and change the regulator. Carefully double check the wiring in the rubber gaitor as this is a known problem area.

A good reminder that 90% of the time, gutless car syndrome is often if not usually caused by a faulty MAF sensor. They slowly drift into oblivion with age and the performance drops slowly over many weeks so its not obvious to the driver. I've noticed a tendency to blame the vane actuator and, of late, the turbo itself in more recent threads before even considering the MAF sensor. In my experience, the sequence of elimination should always be MAF sensor first. There are many MAF sensor variants around. They are specific to each engine. Thats why its important to get exactly the correct part no for the engine. Fleabay in particular is notorious for supplying wrong or faulty (sneaky reconditioned) sensors. Not worth the hassle in my opinion - just pay the dealer his

The fuel cutoff solenoid is built into the distributor pump. It opens when the ignition is turned on and closes when turned off. This is what makes sure your engine stops when the key is removed. Not sure where it is in this photo, I've a feeling it may be that black/white lead goes in the middle. Perhaps you can check you have 12 volts here when ignition is turned on. If not it may be a fuse or relay problem.

2 things to check first. 1. You say you have fuel in the tank, but are you really sure? Just because the gauge is not on zero is not enough - gauges can often be wrong. Bob 3 or 4 litres into the tank to be sure. Theres many a time I've seen people stripping all sorts down just to eventually find out theres no fuel in the tank. 2. If the fuel filter has not been changed in the last 20,000 miles then it could be full of water - which freezes. There is a drain tap on the bottom of (most) fuel filters. You can drain the water off (provided its not frozen), in any case its a good idea to change the fuel filter if its old. Check the T piece has an O ring fitted when changing - it sometimes gets left behind in the filter. You could alway improvise a fuel feed into the pump with a bit of pipe and a plastic bottle - that way you can reassure yourself the engine can start and its not the fuel cut off solenoid that is shut. Yes the excess fuel is pumped back to the tank/filter. It goes to the T piece on the filter - this is a thermostatic valve, depending on fuel temp it goes back to the tank or some is allowed back into the filter. A form of preheating fuel to help stop the filter icing up.

In that case, and it has happened before.....you put the wrong bulb type in or put it in incorrectly...so shorting out parking and brake light circuits. That will trigger the glow plug warning. Someone on the forum did the very same thing.... The brake light bulb is a type 380 - 21/5W twin filament and should have two connector "blobs" on the base and offset location pins, not symmetrical. NOTE: SOME AUTO BULB SELECTORS (e.g autobulbs direct) SHOW THE INCORRECT BRAKE BULB (single filament) FOR THE SHALAXY,

Dont know much about these ford mk3 diesels, however..... I believe the diesel engine is a joint venture PSA Peugeot Citroen Engine. Most of these are fitted with EOLSYS system for dpf regeneration, requiring special (and expensive) EOlSYS additive to be maintained. A lot of owners (thanks to the power of ill advised internet forums) though just fill the additive tank with diesel, which is probably what is giving you the symptoms you describe. Also a recipe for premature DPF failure.

If you insist -but note the photos were taken with the scuttle tray removed. PASSENGER SIDE DRIVERS SIDE They're the in dark bit down in the corners. If you've got blocked drainage then poking from the top wont do much. Much better to poke up from the bottom - the drain outlet is located along the sill lip near the jacking point - its the bit that sticks out, you'll find its bunged up with silt and stones. In my case they were fast with pebbles of just the right size. Thats what you get with a large hole at the top and a small at the bottom. For 15 mins work, its highly recommended to remove the wheel liners (about 8 screws IIRC) and as chris says you'll see why.......be prepared for a nasty sight. Depending on how old your car is and how little flushing of the drainage has been done you'll probably see most of your galvanising gone for a burton.

Think its more likely you have shorted wires in the tailgate rubber gaitor(s). Shorts between tail/brake light circuits that is.