seatkid

Not very effective brakes if you need a brick.......

Check the wires in the rubber gaitor to the door. They often break or short out there. There are 3 topics in the Technical FAQ with pics on this problem. (Note the FAQs do not work with Microsoft internet explorer browser, use firefox, google or opera to access it.)

All I know is it re circulated air only. The intake will either be one or two of the three vents, or maybe its over the wheelarch, so the air is sucked in via the rear storage compartment.

Always thought it was on drivers side near fog light. :rolleyes:

Most likely you are running Microsoft Internet Explorer. IE9 is a broken piece of crap that doesnt work on many forums. I suggest you download Firefox, google chrome or Opera and enjoy surfing as it should be. I use Firefox with adblock plus addon installed so I have a pleasant add free experience.

The voltage should be stable and only rise slowly to about 14.3 - 14.4v max when the battery is fully charged. Check the main fuse/power distribution box in the engine bay (in front of the battery) for signing of overheating terminals. Faulty crimps on the main power leads are a common problem and can lead to fuse box melt down (literally) and burnt cables. The fluctuating voltage may be a symptom that a crimp is on its way out. Also check your battery terminals are tight. The battery may be on its way out is another possibility.

At the moment you get random error pages but the posts seem to get posted ok. Just click the refresh link.

You definitely need to ID the engine correctly. AUY is the standard 115bhp fit. 04/2000 - 11/2005 BTB is listed as 150bhp variant fitted between 01/2005 - 05/2007. It'll need a matching ECU and possibly the wiring looms may be different. Turbos, injectors etc all different.

Ah -_- ...but the difference is this site is quite unique..... :rolleyes: This site, unlike so many others, is (mostly) NOT a site devoted to blinging bragging modding with useless or illegal mods boasting about oversized alloys and skinny tyres ponitificating about winter tyres and how "flying bomb" brand is the best thing since sliced bread. remaps, tuning boxes, stage 1,2,3,4,5,6,7..... how low you can lower your car before it scrapes the tarmac moderators who are frustrated control freaks so called experts touting myths manufacturer undercover agents posing as gurus to put down criticism I could go on...... It is simply a site that is down to earth and has just about everything you need to know about keeping MK1 / Mk2 Shalaxys running in lots of detail provided by some very experienced hands on guys who also accepts even newbies have important gems to add to the knowledge base. It'll be a travesty if other sites do plaguarise the info here.

:blink: Scurvy scum.....mutiny eh?? Keelhaul the lot of em.......;)

Phone your local depot up and ask - they are usually very helpful.

Well the forum is finally back up after a few weeks, it was up briefly a while ago before falling over again, lets hope it lasts a bit longer this time. However its still not right, if you post a reply, it goes to the "There appears to be a problem.... screen" although the reply is posted. Any chance Glen could fix it and possibly comment on the problems? (Also posted this comment under General)

Well the forum is finally back up after a few weeks, it was up briefly a while ago before falling over again, lets hope it lasts a bit longer this time. However its still not right, if you post a reply, it goes to the "There appears to be a problem.... screen" although the reply is posted. Any chance Glen could fix it and possibly comment on the problems?

Yes, when I looked at the new Sharan my thoughts were "how could they make something thats so much bigger on the outside so much smaller on the inside?". Stupid obsession for "fold into floor" seats means its a crap design. IIRC the seats even have rear covers that extend to the floor (so that when they fold into the floor, its all covered) but that means you cant put your feet under the seat - how crap is that? Sliding door feels like a Van. Wierd boot like a big toy box. No spare wheel, expensive self sealing tyres! In addition to the compulsary DPF crap that will give town dwellers nothing but expensive grief, the diesels also feature an adblue system that is expensive to maintain. From what I read, it can only be topped up by dealers (

Welcome to the forum. The reason for this common failure is down to a faulty crimped end on the cable - usually the thick cable to the battery or the cable to the alternator. Its a manufacturing fault that shows up after a few years when the insides of the crimp become oxidised. You could remake the cable end, but you need a new crimp and a crimping tool or solder with a blow torch. A new cable can be bought at the dealer, I don't think they are too expensive . A new fusebox is not all that expensive, so if its damaged I would replace that too. Remember to phone VW / SEAT / Ford dealers to get best price. Usually the VW dealers are a lot cheaper than the Ford dealers. (Just refer to your car as a Sharan). GSF Car Parts / Eurocarparts may be cheaper still.

Was also thinking flat battery. 12.5 on charge indicates possible duff battery, should be 14 volts or more on charge and 12.6 when charger disconnected and battery rested for an hour. Good luck Caff, Im away a few days because of crisis in family.

Is that left as looking to the front or back of vehicle? Did you put everything back together exactly as it was? (A photo is always a good idea). Did you change the fuse box? Are the replacement items the same as original? IIRC there are a number of wires going to the positive terminal on the battery, did you put them all back - I recall someone posting about a wire dropped down the side of the battery. Also check the crimps on these wires.

All PD engines on MK2 even 90 bhp are variable vane turbos. Mk1 90 bhp is fixed geometry/waste gate. Sorry but dont know which OP has, as usual no enough info posted. :unsure: If its a Mk 1, I'm inclined to go with zorgman/new nige's suggestion about pipe to map sensor.

If you have internal movement (ultrasonic) sensors, these often are trigged by a sudden change in temperature usually caused by a window being left slightly open (i.e. a draught). Or sometimes spiders etc like to crawl around the sensors which are mounted high in the B pillars. Checking the connectors for corrosion is another possibilty. Dont know about the fuse approach.

Fault 00575 is an overboost fault - Intake Manifold Pressure: Control Limit Exceeded More likely to be a sticky vane actuator on the turbo. Hot turbo - more sticky.

You probably have two problems! Tapping relay 109 and it starts indicates this relay is faulty (common problem - dry joints inside relay) The white powder /melted cover indicates the classic symptom of a faulty cable crimp (again common problem). Its usually the main power from the alternator to the fuse box. Basically the battery is not being charged fully. The cable has a faulty crimped end, and unless you have a new crimp and the right tools (unlikely) the solution is unfortunately a new cable.

Check the door gaitor for bare/broken wires.

First check the battery, even though its 1 year old could be duff, or flat due to faulty alternator or cable (burnt fuse box in engine bay)- check the terminal voltage. Check battery connections and negative to chassis connection. The next likely culprit is relay 109 which is the main power relay, although I "think" that the engine would still turn over even if this was faulty (not sure).

53 plate PD engine? Just change the filter. Make sure you put on the right way round. Then turn the ignition on for 3 secs and off again without trying to start the engine. Repeat this 7 or 8 times - this gives a chance for the electric lift pump (the squelch noise from the fuel tank when the ignition is turned on) to prime/fill up the filter and fuel lines with diesel. Then try starting.