seatkid

I refrained from posting further on this topic as after a period of depression and meditation ;) , I wrote a letter to Mark Hayselden, the principal responsible for Hayselden Doncaster, listing my complaints about the service I received there. i.e. bent sills, fault on cc which occurred during their tenure (the service manager assured me several times before the work was done that any problems that occurred as a result of their care would be fixed - huh). I also mentioned the technician in his mucky work clothes driving my car without any protection cover on the velour seats, and his attitude (grunt and shrug of the shoulders when I pointed it out to him.) :blush: I didnt mention the dink in the rear nearside wing, probably from their overcrowded and ridiculously spaced car park, or the strange coincidence of the service indicator coming on during their stay (it might have been a coincidence). Some time has passed, and I have received no reply, no phone call, nothing. Make your own conclusion....... Because of the weather, I havent reworked my sills yet, just applied liberal protective spray on wax (from toolstation - highly recommended). I have fixed the cc problem myself, I'll raise another topic on this as its quite interesting.

Point 5 should read . Only certain diesel engines have dual brake switches (110bhp diesel engines before 01/98 and most petrol engines do not) 6. There is still no point 6. :blush:

Sheesh.....brake lights again..... :blush: 1. If there are no brake lights working, including the tailgate high level lamp AND the glow plug lamp is flashing, then probably the stop lamp fuse is intact but check it anyway - see 3. below. If the fuse is intact, and you are sure you checked/changed the right bulbs (with the right type and fitted correctly - see 4 below) then the brake switch is not working correctly, the glow plug warning indicates conflicting output from the two outputs of the brake switch. The brake switch may require adjusting or replacing. Other points for brake light fault finding. 2. On the dash info graphic (if fitted) whichever light is permanently on, the rear (bottom) left, or the rear (bottom) right indicates the side where the problem is - this warning light covers stop and tail lights. (These lights will come on when starting the car, but should extinguish when the brake pedal is pressed unless there is a bulb failure) 3. If none of the brake lights are working including tailgate high level light then check the stop lamp fuse, pre 2000.5 models Tdi check F20 (10A) - (2000.5 - 2003 models its F15) and if the fuse is blown, then check the wiring in both tailgate rubber gaitors - its likely the insulation has perished here (common problem) and wires have shorted together or to chassis. 4. The rear side stop lamps for all models are type 380 twin filament (21/5W) offset pin and are located in the WING clusters (not the tailgate clusters). Make sure to fit the (offset pin) bulb correctly - if you have to force it in , its either wrong way (180 deg) or the the wrong bulb type. Note, the instruction manuals and certain online/Halfords guide list the wrong bulb. Its not a single filament bulb! 5. Only certain diesel engines have dual brake switches (110bhp AFN and most petrol engines do not) 6. There is no point 6. ;)

As I told you, look to the right (passenger side) of the engine cover and you will see a big black rigid plastic pipe about 1.5 inch dia going from back towards the front. This is the boost pipe from the turbo going to the intercooler. About halfway, inserted in this pipe is located the TMAP sensor, it has an electrical connector on it. The connector probably has a latching mechanism on it so dont just pull it otherwise you may break something. You need to release the latch , this is usually done squeezing the tang and pulling the connector at the same time.

1. All stop lights are controlled by the one brake switch. 2. Its not uncommon for both sides to go, especially if you dont check them from time to time. 3. The biggest failure for bulbs is vibration and shock and if you hit the lens whn the brake light was on, there is a very high probabilty that the filament will break (the hot one, i.e. brake light) 4. You need 2 new bulbs - now go out and buy them and fit them! :blush:

The twin filament bulb is a type 380 - didnt spot my typo.

Suggests a wiring problem to the Manifold pressure sensor (TMAP), possibly a poor connection. I think the TMAP on your car is located on the big black plastic circular (about 1.5 in dia) boost pipe that passes near the fuel filter. Check the connector and wiring first IIRC a couple of people have said they removed the TMAP sensor from the boost pipe and found it all gunged up, and gave it a careful clean out with solvent and that cure their problems (but I dont know is the errror codes were the same).

2000.75 - 2003.5 models Stop lamps are from F15 (10A) From there to brake switch (red/yellow in black/red out)- -> lamp check module(in CJB) -->to rear clusters Wire colour at lamp cluster is Bk/Red (right cluster) Bk/White (left cluster) Brown is chassis return (0 volts). There is always some current flowing because of the lamp checking module (which only checks for o/c filaments) Stop lamp - I'm pretty sure it should be a twin filament 21w/5W bulb i.e. a combined stop/tail lamp - check the base in the lampholder, if its got two prongs its a twin filament bulb (382) you need, if its a single prong then its a single filament 21W (382) The stop lights are in the wing clusters not the tailgate clusters - so I dont know what relevance the rubber gaitor is, as the side stop lamp wires dont go through any gaitors.

That'll be quite a feat, as I'm pretty sure the brake lights are twin filament (brake/park), and the ones above are single filament reversing lights. I suggest you check and get the correct bulbs 380 Bulb 12V 21/5w BAY15d fitting, Note the brake lights twn filaments are offset pin type, make sure you get the right type to fit, dont force the incorrect bulb into the holder as it wont work or youll get all parking lights come on every time your brake, or the brake lights will come on when the parking/headlights are on.

Before you leap into action, order parts and strip out dash (complete day for experienced mechanic). I would remove some of the trim and double check the water isnt coming from somewhere else. From your brief description it isnt clear if you are losing coolant? From your photo, it appears to be coming from above the dash trim - not from the air outlet. Also if the matrix had popped I'd expect water on both passenger and drivers side. Places known for leaks include grommets (for cables etc) in the bulkhead, windscreen seals and bulkhead joint seals. Also check the obvious, that the drains at either end of the scuttle tray under windscreen arent blocked, leading to water build up that then get in via the (saturated) pollen filter. Me, being lazy, would be inclined to consider unding a radiator sealing additive if I was it was the matrix.

Yes its from VW or SEAT dealer (Skoda should stock it too) - its clear with a faint green/yellow tinge. I bought it in 2005 - cant remeber how much but wasnt too expensive. Was told it was the correct spec for my car.

Hmm....this forum is not really the place to learn about basic diy oil and filter changing - if you dont know how to do this you need to google it. 1. You need to post full details about what engine/year your car is. 2. The right oil depends on the engine fitted - but you will find the specs in the car's intruction manual if you have it. 3. Changing oil and filters are relatively easy for a competent diy'er. However you will need to remove the engine undertray (4 bolts and 2 nuts) which involves crawling under the car and having a 10mm socket and a long extension. A replacement sump plug or washer is recomended as well. I'm not going to go through the whole procedure - just a warning - make sure you dont cross thread the sump bolt or undertray bolts when you put them back. Also, dont overtighten them. They are easy to strip the threads and then you are looking at a costly repair. The service indicator can be reset by holding the trip button in, turning on the ignition, whilst continuing to hold the trip button in. After about 5 - 10 seconds the service indicator will reset. Release the trip button and turn off the ignition.

If your car is a mk 1 or 2, the antenna is embedded in the glass of the offside rear quarter window. Check the connection to the window. After market radios may not work well as I think the antenna requires a power feed. If your car is a ford galaxy mk3 then you need to post your query in the mk 3 section

You need to do all 4 wheels. If it persists, then they didnt balance them very well,this often happens with quick fit type places - take it back and ask them to check them and redo them if they are out, FOC of course.

Arrrr... they they always say that! ;) You cynic you...... ;)

To clean it effectively, remove the actual sensor from the MAF housing (2 torx screws). Less than 25% chance that cleaning will have any effect as I think its usually the embedded thick film heated sensor in the unit that "burns off" and causes calibration drift and failure.

It probably will be a dealer only (or scrapyard) part. Try here:- Ebay listing for Ford Galaxy (Ford main dealer)

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Reset the ECU by removing the battery for a minute or two. Its possible that the ECU has been trying to adapt ignition/fueling based on your incorrectly timed engine. Another possibility, could be burnt valves or deposits on the valve seats again due the timing error - cylinder pressure test would confirm. Not sure of your "timing from 1st principles" procedure. Do the marks point at each other with no.2 TDC now?

Please repost in the Mk3 section, no-one here in the MK1 and Mk2 section will have a clue.

Wow, how about that eh? I'm too stressed out at the moment to do anything positive, my medication ran out yesterday and I forgot to order a repeat, so probably will crack open the cognac instead. On a positive note, the new water pump cured the noise, it was shagged, now nice and sweet. And the gauge goes back up to mid way again. Interestingly I retained the thermostat which looks like new and is closed fully shut, though thats no guarantee that its not opening early. Its pissing down with rain today, and my garage has the old fabia inside with door cards removed, waiting for me to seal the leaky door carriers (design fault). So poor old Miss Alhambra sitting in the pouring rain, with no undertray and sills lips a-rusting, will have to wait for a sunny day, for plan B - oil service, take her for an a/c regas and straighten sill lips, repaint,reseal and refit undertray. Otto: For a/c regas...Any experience of Motortek(£35) or Formula One(£45) on Wheatley Hall Road? Kwik fit in Balby are good, unlike the one on Wheatley Hall Road.(£50)? Note to self: stop believing everything people tell you..........DON'T give them the benefit of the doubt!

:) :40: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: They wont take responsibility for the sill damage claiming it is impossible to inflict such damage with their gear. I escalated it to the branch manager (dealer principle is swanning off somewhere warm I expect), who was neither use nor ornament. He made my skin crawl with his lack of customer service skills. They gave me the runaround, even jacking up the car to show me and totally ignoring me with my comment of "yeah, what if the pads werent wound up properly?" or "why is this fresh metal I see before me?" Then, as I started the car, the CC started flashing indicating a fault. Went back in, they faffed about with the "master tech" for 10 minutes, came back out and said its perfectly normal, "its just the delay before the cc clutch pulls in, sir, look its alright now...". :5: I said no. They said yes I said no They said yes you get the picture...... In the end I gave up as I cannot stand being grandstanded by a bunch of muppets. Never ever take your car to a VW dealer for major repair any work. . This dealer was Hayseldens of Doncaster. I've had problems there before (I'm a slow learner). The loss will ultimately be theirs, I will repair my car myself and any possibilty of a new car purchase or other work there is banned forever, and I encourage you all to do the same :18:

Shaken up by the poster who complained that no one answered his question maybe... :40: Now that you mention it maybe the Mk1 autos are 4 speed and Mk2 autos 5 speed :)

VW/SEAT/Ford are all VW engines except for Ford models with 4 cyl petrol engines which are 2 Ford petrol engines (2.0L and 2.3L), VW/SEAT used a 2.0L petrol engine. ALL Mk1 ( -late 1999) All models use the Ford 5 speed manual gearbox or 5 speed Japanese Jatco Autobox. ALL Mk2 (2000- ) cars have VW 6speed manual gearbox or 6 speed Japanese JATCO autobox. Lots and lots of wiring loom differences, depending on engine/gearbox/aircon/spec variations. All cars were made on the same production line in Palmela, Portugal with common suppliers, some Ford designed parts, some VAG parts , Mk2 predominantly VAG as Ford had lost interest by then and wanted out, but were tied in by contract. For anyone thinking that "Japanese" = reliable, it is not the case here. THe JATCO boxes are just too underated for the Shalaxy and as such break/wear out easily especially those pulling caravans. The most reliable gearbox appears to be the 5 speed manual Ford box fitted to all manual Mk1's.