seatkid

Leaking seal in the receiver dryer, which is integral with the condensor. Lift the plastic cap on the tube fitted at the end of the condensor. Put a drop or two of oil or soapy water and you can see bubbles escape from the seal (if any gas is left). New condensor is needed IIRC. Pictures etc somewhere on the forum - search away. If he said it was covered under warranty, then warranty he must.

Agree with Madbaz. But ever since Audis became the "must have" car, I think they are top of the league of arrogant and aggressive drivers, followed closely by Range Rovers and all the wanna be big 4x4's. Almost all seem to be driven by very young people.(Where do they get the money?) The worst are young tarts in 4x4's, who always claim right of way on the clogged up side streets/school run and bully their way through. They also dont have a clue about using reverse gear - whats that then eh?

ermm correct spec oil is VW 505.01 or 507.00. 506.00 is petrol spec oil, without one of the above specs, its not suitable.

check youve not run out of fuel is the battery turning over the car at a healthy rate, i.e. is the battery on its last legs?

Cruise control not working on ford engined variants is often due to perished vacuum tube to vacuum reservoir located behind indicator. Its all described in detail in the tech faqs. Flashing Cc display and no cold air - due to compressor not engaging is usually down to low gas.

Nice to know you still care, but this is hardly a topic for the technical section.........

If you could get the car on a ramp, with the undertray off, from underneath you would probably be able to locate the source of the noise more precisely and check all the pipework/exhaust/egr piping etc. round the back of the engine. With them tugging off the ribbed piping up top, I suspect that the main inlet pipe has become disconnected or split. Then my next move would be to remove the aux belts - if its like my AHU engine, you have a small v belt driving the power steering pump and water pump and a ribbed belt driving the alternator and a/c compressor. Run the engine (briefly) to see if any difference. Maybe the a/c pulley is loose (known problem - search the forum), or maybe they're still something wrong with the alternator pulley. Then I would look at running a diagnostic (invest in a cheap VAGCOM lead).

Oh, I forgot to say, after checking that dodgy connector. Next step is unplug the MAF sensor, and run it to see if things improve, sound and performance wise.

On your 7th picture (20120701_124351.jpg) on the right is a connector that is obviously not plugged in correctly. Reseat it, and see if it makes any difference. Well it looks like your garage has been somewhat negligent. The MAF to airbox connection has a large thick O ring that ensures a snug airtight fit. And no clip? How those items got lost is difficult to imagine. A hole in the ribbed piping? Thats tough stuff its made of, how did that happen? No leaks are permissible after the MAF, all air has to be metered by the MAF. Wonky clip suggests they had that ribbed pipe off completely. So, I'm thinking, did they, take care to protect the open inlet from any foreign objects or bits of broken plastic getting in - the next port of call is the turbo. Were they stupid enough to run the engine without any piping/filtering fitted? A good possibilty. Symptoms of a non working MAF are low performance, poor acceleration, but your performance figures are so poor, along with the truck noise, suggests to me that in addition to non functioning MAF , there maybe something got into the turbo or worse still, got past the turbo and lodged in an inlet valve.

Silverbeast is correct, sorry got carried away, the dual zone system is a single compressor with dual evaporators and a larger quantity fill than the standard single zone system.

Indicators (2003) F52 (20A) unfortunately this is located on level 2 or 3 of the fuse box, so you have to strip it down to access it (see Tech FAQs) Central Locking (2003) After checking and fixing wires in the gaitors, check F27 (2.5A) and F32 (5A) The 2 faults may be related, remember the indicators flash when the central locking is activated.

Not much of an engineer if he couldnt advise you what the problem is.....a pressure test is not the way to check the gas content. Some questions... When you had the car regassed, was the system vacuumed before refilling? Did you get a report showing how much gas had been charged into the system (in grams)? I assume from your vehicle description that it is fitted wih a climatronic system - climate control with an LCD control panel? Does the LCD panel flash (all segments) for about 15 secs when you start the car? (indicating it has detected a problem, such as gas pressure, stuck temperature flaps etc. etc.) Is your car a standard single system or a dual system? Dual systems have overhead vents in the passenger section and only one opening rear quarter window - dont confuse this rare option with the dual zone display on the CC unit which all systems have. If it has a dual compressor system, did the engineer test and fill both systems? (and give you a report on the fill quantities) Are you just taking the engineers word that the compressor is working? Can you hear the "clack" of the compressor clutch when going from ECON to AUTO? Does the engine (idle) revs momentarily dip a little when the compressor engages? (indicating the compressor is actually doing some work) When in AUTO, do the engine radiator cooling fans come on? (at low speed) Check the two aluminium pipes coming out the back of the compressor - the one going to the condensor (the radiator at the front of the engine) should get hot to touch, the other going down under the engine should get cold when the compressor is running.

Yes! the TIS download of the above link does work on XP. Its Ford TIS CD Jan 2004 and its a 16 bit program (so various hurdles to get to run on Win 7) 1. Download the zip file, extract it to a temp folder, check it for viruses. 2. Burn the contents of the temp folder to a blank CD/DVD, make sure the volume label is ISEN0401 3. Install from the CD/DVD by running Install.exe The program only runs in an administrators account, and requires the CD/DVD to be loaded.

Need Car year and engine for more detail about fuses Basically, one or more wires in the rubber gaitors that go between the door pillars and the doors will have perished insulation or broken and shorted together, probably blowing a fuse. Check these by pulling the gaitors back and inspect. Also the two rubber gaitors in the tailgate. There are three topics in the Technical FAQs that cover this common problem, but you will need firefox or chrome or opera web browser to acces these as internet explorer cant open the links. Plenty of photos there to help.

That can happen when you lose the small tail lamp or 4w bulbs have been fitted instead of 5W bulbs. Also worth checking the number plate bulbs and the brown return wires from the rear cluster to wherever they are bonded to the body.

I take it the noise youre referring to is the Scania truck like noise when you press the throttle..... Has it still got no power? Please describe this a little further. Lack of acceleration, gives up at x mph etc etc Does it throw any smoke out? You may need someone to confirm this driving behind you. They will have removed the air filter box when changing the tensioner/belts. Can you check the filter box has been reinstalled correctly, (with filter), lid closed and clipped and the pipes (box -> MAF, MAF to turbo etc. ) all connected correctly. Also check at the top back of the filter box there is a small diameter flexi pipe that comes out towards the bulkhead. Is that pipe still connected or broken off? Either its an inlet pipe disconnected (after the MAF which would explain the crap performance) or it could be something much more serious.....but lets eliminate the simple things first. Perhaps a couple of photos of the engine around the filter box area might help. The photo below might help. Its a 90 bhp AHU but should be similar. Not the corrugated piping, the small pip at the top of the box and the way the MAF is fitted. Also check they refitted the undertray,and your sills are not bent........like so many garages like to do.

Now.

Gregers, can you remind me where the "you are not my friend" list is?

I think its just a questiion of stripping the pipes and i/c off then swilling them out a suitable solvent. Maybe petrol for the i/c, not sure if the plastic pipes will handle petrol. Brake cleaner is pretty good for removing oil.

Message to GTEUK...you realise that the Tech FAQs work OK with Firefox/Chrome/Opera - only broken with IE - I've seen the same problem on other forums that use what I presume is similar or same forum software.

IIRC 110 bhp AFN engine has a DMF - Dual Mass Flywheel - and so also has the infamous one way alternator clutch. Should have cost ~£50 to change. From my experience I think you changed the belt tensioner for no good reason. And the tensioner arm most definitely unlikely, I cant see how this can be "slightly worn". - Bullshit time. Without hearing the noise its impossible to judge, but its loud and rattly, especially under load at low speeds, it could very well be a broken DMF. Try searching the technical section for DMF symptoms. A failing or broken DMF might be what knackered the Alternator clutch.

As I explained elsewhere, I got my car back from the VW dealer (Hayseldens of Doncaster) where they changed the water pump and thermostat, with some additional bonus extras – bent sills and a cc unit with a flashing panel that wasn’t there before. Panel flashing on a climate control unit for 15 secs or so after starting the car, indicates that the unit detected an error of some sort. In 90% of cases, this is due to low refrigerant gas level in the system, triggered by a 3-way (too high, OK, too low) pressure switch, which on my 98 Tdi is mounted on the receiver dryer. The unit doesn’t engage the compressor clutch, so no cold air is also an accompanying symptom. In my case, however, the clutch was still pulling in, and I still had cold air. So low gas was not the problem. As it became clear that Hayselden were not interested in my problem (that they seemed to have caused) – I decided to splash out £7.98 on a Fleabay VAGCOM lead. It arrived the next day, so I installed the accompanying clunky drivers and software (VAGGOM 409.1 and VCDS lite) onto my clunky, war torn, just about held together with a roll and a half of duck tape 1998 museum model laptop, under Windows ME. Not expecting much joy, it installed ok so I plugged it all into the car, and after some pregnant pauses – it all seemed to communicate OK with my car. First I scanned the AutoHVAC controller and got 1 Fault Found: 65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 00-00 - - Hmm, strange, I thought (with my electronics designer/programmers hat on) I pushed the Clear Faults button and it came back no errors found. Great! (or so I thought). Removed the lead – turned the car on, no flashing screen, J and drove to the shops to pick up the wife. After loading the car, started the car and the CC panel started flashing again. Shit. Anyway to cut a long story short, although I could clear the error it kept coming back. Step 2. Scan something else with VAGCOM – found an error in another controller – I think it was the Cent. Elec Controller – something like int.monitoring sensor fault. So I cleared that – and that did go away and not come back. But didnt help with the CC fault which kept reporting 65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error. So I started googling and soon it became pretty clear this is a relatively common reported fault (on all controllers) and the opinion of most, including dealer techies etc. was that this was an internal memory corruption error, it can’t be reset, the module is f**ked and you need to change it for a new module, or alternatively just live with it. Ross-Tech (the VAGCOM people) list something similar Possible Causes Wiring from/to Control Module faulty Voltage Supply and/or Ground Supply faulty [*]Control Module faulty [*]Control Module Housing leaky Possible Solutions Check/Clean Wiring from/to Control Module Check Voltage Supply and Ground Supply including the Main Supply/Connections at the Battery [*]Replace Control Module As a hardware/software/firmware engineer of yesteryear, I found it hard to think that the module could just corrupt its firmware, even if the dealer was clumsy with the battery connections. Digging around and looking around the engine bay (around compressor/water pump/themostat) and external sensors (temperature sensor next to nearside foglight) there was nothing there that didn’t work or could be associated. I nearly just gave up. Then I came across an obscure post on a german forum, and it was saying that someone had this problem, took his cc unit to bits and found the little fan that sucks in the air next to the LCD wasn’t turning – it was made up with dust and stuff. After cleaning it out it started spinning and his flashing LCD went away. So, being the lazy type, and not wanting to strip down the dash, first I listened close up to the tiny vent next to the LCD, when turning on the ignition. There was a squeeling hissy, not very healthy type noise which cut out after several seconds. So out with the vac, soft brush etc. I basically attempted a clean up though the vents. Brushing, sucking etc. Checking several times – the noise and switch off hadn’t changed. I persisted for some time, also adding the odd poke and banging in the way you used to fix those old 1960’s televisions. When, all of a sudden, I heard a little whirring noise – not unlike a mini version of the aux heater winding up coming from the vent. Next time I switched the ignition, the CC unit had stopped flashing. Cutting the story short. Fault 65535 – Internal Memory Module Error Should rather say Fault 65535 – Internal Module Fault – unspecified (the firmware guy was too lazy to finish the code off properly) So for all you 10 percenters who have this fault on your CC unit – a flashing panel, but the compressor still working and giving cold air, it may very well be the internal fan on the CC unit is blocked with dust. THis 65535 error probably applies to other controllers. e.g. early Tdi ECU have the MAP sensor built into the unit, when the rubber pipe in the unit gets gunged up, spilts or collapses, this generic 65535 error code pops up. So if anyone, particularly your dealer, says the module is f**ked and you need a new one at £895+Vat - just say error 65535 Internal bullshit error - walk away. Sorry for the long story.

The warning light is self resetting - no need for VAGCOM. Turn on your side lights and check you have 6 lamps on, two at each side and two over the number plate.

Sounds like a good car - would suit Mumof4 - is she still around? Brake switch is probably just wrong type fitted or incorrectly adjusted. My CC doesnt leak anywhere near as much since I tightened the front and rear end plates on the compressor (the leak was from the front end plate outer edge - all the bolts were pretty loose ) As far as original pads and disks, my 98 Alhambra with 120k is still on original disks all round and original pads on the front (about 3 mm left) - however at 240,000 miles, I expect new disks and pads wouldnt go amiss. The rear calipers are known to stick on (due to rusting internally) so I'm surprised if it really still has original rear pads. (Was it a motorway car?). THe tracking problem you mention, might lead me to suspect track rod ends, bushes etc may need changing, (none of which is expensive). If you got it through a new MOT (why wait until August?), its value would be considerably more. However I'm not sure if the flashing glow plug is an MOT failure though under the new regs, as that could indicate (to the tester) a potential emissions problem.

Read point 2 of my guide. THe warning light covers tail and stop lamps. THere are two tail lamps in each cluster, one is the second filament of the stop lamp, there is also a seperate 5W bulb. Check these. Also check the correct wattage is fitted as this can trigger the warning too.