seatkid

Take a look at the tech FAQs section (3 threads on this subject)

Not on the AHU engine! First you must remove the PAS/Water Pump V belt. This can only be done from underneath. Slacken the 2 PAS pump mounting bolts and then wind back the PAS tensioning bolt. Remove the V belt. You'll need to remove the air box to slacken the the aux drive belt tensioner - you'll probably need an appropriate tool to do the slackening e.g. This laser tool plus socket ratchet or extension bar - you need a lot of leverage! Using a screwdriver or other improvised tool will likely damage the tensioner/roller. Then, you can remove the belt, but make a note of the routing!

errm .... wrap some duck tape around the pipe. Glowplugs usually fail open circuit, they should be less than 1 ohm (cold)

Usually caused by a seized one way clutch on the alernator pulley. Check the alternator pulley works correctly if you want your tensioner to last more than a few weeks.

Then its either your chinese cable/software or a loom problem I think.

I read on Ross-Tech that some functions require a minimum of 12.5 volt battery voltage....whether this applies to diagnostics I dont know.

you have at least 12.2v on your battery terminals (ignition on)?

I think this is one of those where he finds out all along he had the wrong type of test cable..... Misc quote for today:- "The role of the Gateway (also known as the Data bus diagnostic interface J533) is the exchange of data between the CAN data bus systems (‘powertrain CAN data bus’, ‘convenience CAN data bus’ and ‘infotainment CAN data bus’) and the conversion of diagnostic data from CAN data bus systems to K-cable and vice versa so the data can be used by vehicle diagnosis, testing and information systems like the dealer VAS tools and Vagcom/VCDS."

AFAIK Mk1 1995 -2000 Diesels - 110bhp (AFN) engine had a DMF, all other engines no DMF Mk2 2000 - All diesels were PD engines and had a DMF. AFAIK if the car has a DMF, then it also has a one way clutch pulley on the alternator. 130bhp (PD) engine is only fitted in MK2 - I don't think that engine was available until 2003...

Just loosen the one screw holding the n/s indicator and slide it forward and out.

That'll be the cause of the MAF go/no go power problem....

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The only "vacuum cannister" on a 96 TDI is the brake servo.

See Tech FAQ 21 . Almost certainly a split vacuum pipe on the vaccum pump located behind n/s front indicator.

seesh, not only do you have a mongrel car, but caught liasing with a bunch of mutineers!! :20: Moderators!! What shall we do with this one? :26:

The immobiliser LED is on the drivers door on top of the door card, next to the window. i.e. where the pop up lock plunger was on old fashioned cars. It flashes once every few seconds when the car is locked (and deadlocked). It lights briefly when the ignition is turned on. If it flashes when the ignition is on or engine running it signifies an error. I was referring to the rubber gaitor between the door and body. Does the led flash when locked? My VAGCOM says CAN not ready...... thats because it doesnt have CANBUS!!! Again, does your car have any problems apart from your OBD problem? What VAGCOM interface cable are you using?

Just a few casual observations... 1. Immobilizer lamp fault - worth checking the old wires in the rubber grommet to the door(s). 2. Apart from your OBD scanning problems, what problems are left with the car? 3. Everything I've read seems to suggest that none of the Mk1 or Mk2 were CANBUS, even though the wiring was there. Why not try good old 409.1 or VCDS-Lite Release 1.1 software? 4. If you "really" are measuring negative voltages (which I doubt), then someting is wrong with the grounding somewhere. Maybe a short in the rubber grommet to the immobiliser lamp circuit is causing havoc...

You need to trace the loom back from the MAF sensor to check for chafed wiring (shorting) or bad connections.

As Saif says, the PATS chip is probably missing. Did you open the keyfob to change the batteries? It is known to drop out easily if you open up the key. The PATS chip is located in the key head as here

Try a search, I think you're right. IIRC there are threads suggesting the oil cooler is a common problem.

Looks like a connector or wiring fault in the loom to the MAF sensor, start by disconnecting/reconnecting the MAF sensor.

Another remote possibilty is a wheel bolt head broken off (the key head on alloys can drop out) and its rattling in the wheel trim. (Not sure if you removed the wheels when you change the drive shafts)

Did you check your tyres for embedded foreign objects (bolts, screws etc)?

Check the wires in the rubber gaitors to the tailgate. Probably insulation crumbled and cores shorting. Common problem, see Tech FAQ 31, 43,44 for some details and pics

Yes this was standard in models up to the 1998 rehash.