seatkid

State(iv) does not exist. You either had a faulty/stuck pressure switch or the wiring had been spragged.

Check the N75 valve, IIRC it has 3 vacuum pipes on it, I think one is the vacuum feed you on about. (Sorry cant check on mine as dont have the car with me at the moment)

If the climatronic LCD display doesnt flash on start up, it indicates that gas level/pressure is OK. You say the compressor no longer engages - are you sure? Check visually that the inner pulley on the compressor is static when the engine is running. The CC should be set to AUTO and you should also see that the main radiator fan(s) are spinning (at half speed). Next check, I would say is check you can turn the compressor easily by hand (engine OFF and turn the inner pulley) - just to check the compressor hasnt seized (and possibly burnt out the electromagnetic clutch) Then, with the engine off, I would disconnect the lead to the compressor and rig up a 12v feed to supply the compressor clutch directly - take care to use a safe form of 12v (via some kind of fuse and not direct off the battery). Listen for the "clack" as the clutch pulls in. If you get the clack then somehow arrange this with the engine running (don't even think about getting your hands in there with the engine running!). If the compressor runs then its an electrical problem - possibly the external temperature sensor or even a fuse. BTW diagnosing an a/c problem over the phone is only for "clairvoyant" engineers :glare: Thermoswitch N291 is mounted on the engine radiator (passenger side end about halfway up) B73 Outside air temp sensor is mounted down behind the bumper, but I dont know which side on the MK2

Dont know if jbgt2s reply is a wind up, but there are no error codes for cat or dpf, indeed there is no dpf fitted at all to the Mk1 or Mk2 Shalaxies. Maybe jbgt2 has a mk3, in which case he's posting in the wrong forum. Michael, the likely cause of intermittent boost is a sticky vane actuator or mechanism on your turbo. Search the forum for several solutions suggested. The simplest solution smay be to give the car an "italian tune up" - search if you dont know what it means - basically you thrash the balls off the engine at near maximum revs/loads over several or more cycles to blow crud out the turbo. It may or may not work, otherwise you have to clean the turbo out by one means or another. The little pipe at the back of the air pipe supplies the "clean air" side to the turbo control solenoid (TCS) - which controls the turbo via varying the vacuum to its actuator. The hissing noise is the sound of a/c refrigerant gas expanding after the expansion valve as it goes into the evaporator (the bit that cools the air). Its normal to hear it a little, if it gets really loud then its usually a sign that the gas is running low.

from the initial post, its a fairly good bet this is just a relay 30 fault (common), blown fuse, or a problem with the aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.

Idle speed is not affected by unplugging the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor measures air flow into the engine. The ECU uses this information to calculate the maximum amount of fuel that can be injected without exceeding Euro emission limits i.e. without creating tons of black smoke when you floor the throttle. When you disconnect the sensor, you normally see a drastic reduction in performance (acceleration and top speed) as the ECU defaults to using a very conservative setting of airflow based on engine speed and other assumptions. If the MAF sensor is faulty, when you unplug it, you either see no difference in performance (because its already being ignored by the ecu) or even a slight improvement in performance. This test however is not a very good way of establishishing the maf sensor is faulty (unless performance increases when unplugged). You havent told us exactly what engine you have (year, bhp) as there are other possibilities.

1. Lower the steering column to its lowest position to give you some more room (flick down the lever located under the column if you dont know how) 2. Look under the black plastic hood/trim that sits on the instument cluster - you will see a couple of pozidrive screws - remove these and then gently pull the hood out. 3. You will then see the cluster is held in by 4 posidrive screws around the edge of the cluster. Remove these and the cluster can then be pulled out.

Check the main power distribution/fusebox in the engine compartment for signs of overheating/melting. There is a common fault where the crimp on the the main wire from the alternator is faulty, causing overheating/meted/damaged fusebox and poor or no charging and bad voltage regulation. The fusebox in question is located in the engine compartment in front of the battery. Search for fusebox e.g. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/23674-fuse-box-burnt-out/page__p__169442__hl__fusebox#entry169442 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22903-burnt-auxiliary-fuse-box/page__p__165747__hl__fusebox#entry165747

Check the usual suspects. Cable ends slipping out of their sockets. The bolt on the gearbox selector lever. etc etc I think probably in the FAQ's

EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 FST is actually a lower spec oil. Unless your engine has a tendency to burn or use oil, the 5W30 would be better, offering slightly better fuel consumption and longer service life (it can go up to 30,000 miles in suitable modern engines on the VAG variable service regime, but dont try going that long on your engine....) Both oils are very good products.

AFAIK the 110 bhp is fitted with a DMF whereas the 90bhp is not. So the clutches are probably completely different and not interchangeable. BHP:110 Additional Info:Spline Count & Diameter: 23/220mm BHP:90 Additional Info:Spline Count & Diameter: 23/228mm

The plastic bit is probably stripped inside and thats why it dropped off. A new one costs about 23p IIRC but has to be ordered specially. The hook on the spring goes into a hole on the chassis member.

Probably the same procedure?

Castrol Edge FST 5w30 is a very high spec, longlife VW507.00 oil, which exceeds and supercedes 505.01, so you are alright with that oil.

First thing to check is the MAF sensor. Classic problem is the MAF sensor slowly dies with age severely limiting maximum power available. ("wont pull the skin opff a rice pudding") You wont notice this when pottering around town with no/little load, but you will when trying to pull anything at speed or uphill. Symptoms are very slow 0-60 times (maybe 30+seconds instead of 18 secs for a 90 bhp Tdi). Probably limited top speed of less that 70mph or less when going uphill. (these all with no load) Difficult to test the sensor, easiest to swap with a known good one. Make sure the replacement is exact for your engine type and year and different ones exist and they arent interchangeable.

Surely the £2300 you quote is a mistake or some sick joke. Before diving in trying to fix this, you must demand to see the dealer principal / managing director. Demand that the car is put back to the state you brought it in at no cost to you otherwise you will sue them. (through small claims court) consult Citizen advice bureau if you want more help. If they stripped stuff out, its their responsibilty to put it back as it was. You dont take a car into a main dealer to ask them to look at a fault only for them to damage the car in the way they did. Any responsible mechanic or garage should document what they did in great detail so that any bits removed or changed can be put back,They also should not "swap" relays around as they are not inter changeable. I dont know why your car would have an aftermarket imobiliser as all galaxies have an immobiliser built into the engine management system as standard. An aftermarket alarm may have been fitted, but if they "ripped it out", you may may have mega problems trying to sort it out, as I expect it interrupt more than one circuit to "immobilise" the car. If all else fails you can download a copy of the Ford TIS CD here (it works under Windows XP - dont know about vista or 7) and access the wiring diagrams. It can be a slow and painful process, as the wiring diagrams are quite difficult to follow and you have to navigate to the right variations for your particular car model, year,engine, and options. Good luck.

F34 is 25 Amp - Independent Heating and Ventilation.

AFAIK 110bhp AFN engine has a one way alternator clutch, but the 90bhp AHU does not. Take the part no. of the alternator (printed on the plastic end housing) and a bit of googling will establish what is what.

Its behind the black rubber grommet at the bottom corner in the bodywork as in this picture

Take off the aux belt. Then use a screwdriver or similar and carefuly hold the alternator rotor still. You should be able to spin the pulley in the non-driven direction, whereas it should be locked in the driven direction. Common fault is the one-way pulley seizes (locks in both directions), this in turns transmits repetitive shocks to the belt, tensioner (which jumps about like crazy) and other auxillaries. Consequences are noisy belt and failed tensioners.

You need to remove the aux drive belt(s) and check to see which part is seized. Without the belt(s) filtted you can also quickly check that the engine will start and run (provided the battery is charged), but dont drive it because you wont have power steering or battery charging. From your description it could be the power steering pump or the a/c compressor. More likely its the power steering pump as a seized a/c compressor should not inhibit starting as the a/c clutch should be disengaged on start. If you disconnect the electrical connection to the a/c compressor, it will stop the a/c clutch engaging. Then get a quote from a good independent to have the faulty part(s) changed. If you cant remove the belt yourself, you need to get a mechanic in to do the above.

2002 model means its a PD engine, all were fitted with similar Variable Vane Turbos, even the 90 bhp variant.

I'm guessing from the AHU engine yours is the post 98 revamp. This is what my AHU late 98 looks like

1. When under load the engine makes a fairly load gurgle kind of noise. When cruising the noise cannot be heard. I've been advised that it sound like turbo chatter. Anyone know what this is? No idea about that, maybe oil/water in the intercooler?? 2. The air blowers aren't very powerful, even when set to full blast. Is this a problem somewhere or are they just like this? Blowers are pretty powerful - must be a blockage, usually a blocked pollen filter, if its got Climate control, the blowers are controlled by software and back off automatically when the desired temperature is reached. VAGCOM will tell you if there is a problem with the electrical airflaps or sensors. 3. It's done 138k now and had timing belt done at 87k. Should I be looking at getting it done again? Cambelt change required every 40,000 miles/4 years 4. I've read about vagcom and vcds which I'm keen to get. Can anybody give me any links for the cable and software needed please. I've looked on eBay but there are lots of different leads ranging in price. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Any ebay cable will only be usuable with freeware versions of VAGCOM/VCDS lite which have limited functionality. My £7.98 cable worked fine, however 2 days later, ebay contacted me and told me the product had been pulled for breaking terms and conditions, they couldnt say more because of privacy issues.....

On the mk1 tdi's there is only the mechanical pump that is integral to the distributor injection pump. Not sure what the mechanic was trying to prove as the feed to the fuel filter is from the top of the filter. Change the filter for a new one and check the T-piece in the top has an O ring (some have two) fitted as this can get lost. Its a good idea to change the O ring(s) for a new one as often air will leak in here. Clogged fuel lines of course cause problems, has someone put something maliciously in your tank? It would be almost impossible for any other normal reason to clog lines. Contaminents could be present. 1. Water - usually only a problem with cars that have stood a long time. 2. Petrol! Have someone topped up with the wrong fuel? In these cases drain the tank 3. "Bio fuel" - I'm talking about the guys who try to run their cars on old chip fat or supermarket cooking oil. If not chemically processed correctly and filtered (which is most likely) then fatty deposits etc will clog everything up (as well as damage the pump etc). More radical cleaning methods would be needed here, possibly involving strong cleaning additives (thinking of things like the Forte products), often the damage done though is terminal. .