seatkid

Firstly the AHU engine is 90bhp, AFN engine is 110bhp Secondly Is the car pre or post 98 revamp - the car had complete new electricals starting with early 98 builds. Many cars sold in 98 were still the old 97 model. The glowplug relay (K70) is actually housed in the central junction box on both pre and post 98 models, which is under the drivers dash so I dont know what device under the bonnet youre referring to. A photo would help. The Glowplug light doubles up as an engine management warning/fault light (which is when it flashes). It could be flashing for a number of reasons, the common one as Gregers points out is a faulty brake switch (its a dual device). But it could be an ECU or sensor issue. VAGCOM would help pinpoint this. Being a pig to start and white smoke are possibly related and sounds like your injection/engine timing is out. If you changed the timing belt recently, you could have the timing set wrong. Battery light staying on is either a faulty alternator or faulty wiring.

You're using Internet Explorer.......which doesnt work with the FAQ or many other things too. Download Firefox, CHrome or Opera and you're good to go....

You didnt look very hard then ;) Almost certainly anti roll bar link(s) worn, covered by Tech FAQ nr 2 or just click here. Very common fault, and cheap and easy to fix.

If its a diesel its absolutely normal for the oil to be jet black within 30 seconds of starting the car.

On full lock, the power steering dump valves operate due to excess pressure. This is loud but I wouldnt describe it as "most horrible". You're not supposed to hold the steering on full lock for more than about 10 seconds as it could lead to temporary loss of power assistance.

Clutch going on/off all the time suggests the system has been overfilled. Did ATS give you a report with the weight of gas charged (grams)? - check this against the plate in your engine bay (near the bonnet release). You should use the lower quantity for a standard a/c system. The higher figure is only for vehicles with dual a/c systems (not dual temp control!) i.e. those fitted with roof vents in the rear passenger compartment and only one opening rear quarter window - its a rare option.

pictures would help. What year and engine variant. e.g. If you mean the round cap thing thing with the pipe on it, then thats the engine breather, you cant block that off otherwise the engine crankcase will pressurise and start to blow oil out at every joint/gasket and probably damage it.

Seesh....I'm lost for words..... :)

Check the anti roll bar link and also the anti roll bar bush. Any play at all in the arb link ball joints can knock and sound like the suspension is falling apart. They are cheap and easy to replace though.

Its usually because the internal mechanism is rusted. Strangely it seems to affect the offside caliper more than the nearside (manufacturing tolerances?) If you want to have a go at an overhaul, see this guide where you can see the internals gone rusty. Personally, I just run some penetrating oil into the parking lever shaft (you have to lift the rubber seal/cover) and work the lever with some large pliers, everytime I service the car, or when I suspect its sticking (excessive brake dust and or stinking hot). I suspect its a lot more cost effective just to replace the caliper.

http://www.auto-part...wbPVKdEIVz8Tg== http://www.vwspares....ension_rear.php

As chris says probably shorting wires in the tailgate gaitors. Another possibility is the fitment of an incorrect bulb or bulb incorrectly fitted such that the the brake/parking light circuits short together.

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=Ez49YNk_PWCDPj1gUWRVWSJ/ZEZAZ0Rjwf89YCJhvVATPj8f8xw5bBMIe3gTHj3pHm0JurD26WAJM3KyihrJ/oKYHaiHbWkwoSiXL7uzy1wfp9wVaGr4eL/NEEAjO//CdV_USLxcV9I/qyvUYA0ho5K_J3c7HPOFQrsT0MuO41SvJ1uXBCIOoumHbLdZ9eXd0sJgqQfffyH3MXZk Item 5 is the rear abs sensor cable, the sensor is next to item3

Yes 12v on black/yellow from F20. Have you checked the corresponding black/yellow in both tailgate rubbers? I note F20 is labelled as 10A (15A) - IIRC the fuse was uprated to 15A as the 10A tended to blow. I'm not a doctor, but my general diagnosis is everyone is mad except me.

Switch in wiper motor is the self parking switch. CJB is the fusebox under the drivers side dash. Check F20

These links and 90bhp AHU,1Z or 110 bhp AFN may be of help

I'm pretty sure all the illumination on Mk1 manual heater controls is by conventional bulbs. part no 7M0919040C http://www.auto-part...6pz4Ip7i23fyIPx

LEDs (Light emitting diodes) rarely fail, are you sure its not something else? Which LED exactly are you talking about?

To be sure, just pull the 2 pin electrical connector off the back of the compressor - this is the 12v feed that powers the clutch, that way it doesnt matter what the climate unit is set to, accidently or otherwise. Note: on random occassions - every few months, my CC will "reset" to AUTO on start up - so I recommend you disconnect the compressor connector for this reason.

You may have overfilled it! The procedure for checking and filling the box is very precise and is documented on this forum in at least a couple of posts. Sounds like http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/23989-lumpy-auto-gear-change/page__hl__auto+gearbox Having said that, it seems to me, once an auto starts to give these sorts of problems it usually means its ferked. If you search

Never trust "experts" who charge. i.e. garages, particularly dealers. :) Cracked pistons? How the hell can he tell that? - virtually unheard of failure.

This is usually due to either a window being partly open (abriubt temperature change) or a spider being resident in one or both door pillars where the sensors are located. Maybe you can switch it off with VAGCOM (I dont know) or pull a fuse (again I dont know)

Diode? Dont you mean the resistor pack? Available from fleabay IIRC.

More specifically, hold in the odometer reset button, switch on the ignition and continue holding until the display resets - usually 5 - 10 seconds.