seatkid

If its only a surface scratch try polishing it out, I would avoid tcut on a new car. If you think its gone through the lacquer and not too deep into the paint then clean it up (use a solvent cleaner) then blow some lacquer over it ( mask it off first) or brush it on. When its dried after half a day, gently tcut it back to level it off, repolish and wax. At least on the bumper it won't rust. <_<

It's 95% certain it is an anti-roll bar drop link worn. To check, turn the wheel outward so you can see the link, then take a firm hold of the link and check to see if you can detect *any* movement in the end ball joints when pushing or pullling (very) hard, if theres any movement at all then it's nacked and is the cause of the knocking when going over uneven surface. Its an easy job (about 20 minutes), even without jacking up the car! (Although you will need to lay on the ground) You need a good fitting socket and open ended spanner. The bolts are tightened very tight (100 Nm) so you will need a long bar on your socket. Don't worry when removing the links, they are not under any tension... Only change the link thats nacked. They fail at wildly different interval due to poor quality control / design. Doesn't mean anything else is likely to go soon. I bought anti roll links from a Delphi distributor at

If the battery is flat in your key, then maybe the immobiliser is preventing you starting, I don't really know how it works though.... Are you sure its a burning smell, maybe its the smell of coolant leaking from the heater matrix....

boomoottna1, in reply to your email, it could be the load reduction relay (k149 - R26 - central junction box, bottom panel) but are you sure you checked fuse 33?

Being cynical, they might have used your car as a demonstrator/company runabout for 2000 miles before they reset the mileage and forgot the service indicator :rolleyes: Never known a dealer reset the service indicator correctly. Even though its easy enough to do... As it a Mk 1 they would have bedded in by now ;)

Try and locate the source of the smell - 1st step - is it coming from the engine? - lift the bonnet when the smell starts and check near the pollen filter. Or is it coming from the Central Junction Box which is under the dash on the drivers side. Thats where most of the relays are. Try changing the battery in the key. Its a standard CR2016 lithium cell. Or if the open button is damaged and finger grease has got in you'll have to clean it out (not so easy)

Buncers, different electrics for 98-99 Models... For vehicle built to 09/98, Double check F29 (5A) , F8 (30A) and K162 Relay (located in central junction box) For vehicle built after 09/98, Double check F33 (25A or 30A after 09/99), no relay fitted.

Due credit to Nimrod for correctly pointing to relay. In many cases it appears a picture and/or diagram helps. The Ford TIS CD contains comprehensive wiring diagrams for all variants, the only problem is they're not very easy to follow.

Relay layout below (-97)

Cannot believe that at all, and a weeping slave doesn't draw in air - load of b*ll*cks. Have they stripped the master to look at what the problem is? Presumably the seal failed allowing the fluid to leak back when the pedal was pressed. Possibly due to contamination or maybe someone (in the garage) didn't assemble it correctly.

??? My 98 Seat Alhambra (215/60 Continental sportcontacts) quotes 33-36 psi front and 30-39 rear. Quite a bit different for a very similar tyre. My Contis last over 30k on front or 40k when all rotated. Highly recommended and they're quiet!

Somewhere on the TIS is a statement to the the effect that a Bosch MAF can be used to replace the Pierburg part but a Pierburg MAF cannot be used to replace the Bosch part. Doesn't make much sense unless its something to do with calibration ranges - eager to hear your results Barney..

Don't know on what Ivor and Dave base their opinions.. AFAIK, on the Tdi, the MAF sensor is used to ensure compliance with Euro III (Euro II on early model) emissions. Without the MAF sensor, the system will default to using an estimate of Air Mass based on engine speed, boost pressure etc which will be on the conservative side. Therefore the consequence will be a loss of peak power and peak torque with possibly reduced driveability and occasional non compliance of emissions (soot) especially if your air filter is filthy. On the TDI the overall fuel consumption should be relatively unaffected. (not petrol models though) Long term consequences are probably only minimal, effects due to some extra soot being generated. Three reasons that the MAF would fail are: 1 A build up of gunge/dirt/carbon on the elements which affect its calibration. It may be possible to clean and restore its calibration into the range that the PCM can handle. 2. The element(s) wear away and the calibration shifts out of range. In this case its a dustbin job. 3. Electronic fault. Also dustbin job. Of course petrol variants are a different kettle of fish.....

Pity the poor sod that buys the new car without the tray.....

There is no additional relay for fast wipe.... (Vehicles up to 02/97) Check the green wire to pin 5 of wiper control unit which is attached to the wiper motor. You should have 12v when fast wipe selected (ignition on!) - if not, it's a wiring fault or the column switch. If you do have 12v then it's the wiper control unit. :rolleyes:

This is due to the design fault as I posted (mine suffers from it) - don't think it causes damage - just annoying

It does not exist (on your car) - it is a figment of your imagination :huh: Do you mean Fuse 30? (3A) - rear licence and tail gate lamps....

What bit's that then?

I have a similar problem.... keep getting "are we there yet?" and "how much longer is it?" from somewhere in the back... :unsure:

By default the cooling fan(s) turn on at low speed (about 50%) when aircon is turned on. The noise from the cooling fan(s) is normally inaudible in the cabin (they are only noticeable when on full speed and idling). So if you hear noise in the cabin, are you sure its the cooling fan(s)? - if its more of a hissing or rumbing/kettle type noise (which tends to come and go as you go round corner or accelerate/brake) then that is the sound of low gas in the system. The compressor gets noisy when this happens.

ALL galaxies have an undertray fitted as standard, it is required for safety reasons, the belts MUST be protected from water spray otherwise they slip causing total loss of power steering etc. ;) ;)

There was a post from someone who reported the bracket holding the steering pump had come adrift (bottom bolt sheared).... check the tension on the belt, sometimes the automatic tensioner breaks...

Means a system fault that stops the climate control working fully. Usually low pressure due loss of refrigerant meaning that the aircon will not work (the compressor will not be allowed to switch on). (nb c/c only works above 5 deg C outside ambient) Finding/fixing the leak is something that dealers are particularly inept at doing and accustomed to charging

Before 1998 the mirrors were the same. During 1998 (Still Mk 1) VW and Seat changed to a smaller Golf type design. The Fords have always been the same throughout...

You could always turn the radio up.... <_<