seatkid

Do you lot have you fridge serviced regularly? Actually on the Ford checksheet there is an item. "Every 3 years: Check temperture at the evaporator outlet tube. Check air conditioning lines for damage and leaks (LTS )"

:lol: Is my humour so hard to understand? Thought only the wife had that problem... :(

"Welcome to Radio Caroline - broadcasting offshore located 20 yards from the toilets at Leicester Forest East Service station....." :lol:

Definitely. "Servicing" won't stop flexible pipes leaking (if they do - which I doubt until theyre several years old at least). If the leaks are slow (several weeks plus) then the oil shouldn't escape as the molecules are much larger than R134A molecules. So why bother? I personally would only regass when I suspect the gas is low, i.e. hear those "kettling" type noises constantly.

By now, most of us know that Ford and Co specify 40k/60k mileage intervals depending on model year and whether its a manual or auto. What I would like to know is, why on the American TDi club site they talk about 80k for 2002 models onwards (new belt/tensioner can be retrofitted to earlier models) AND looking at a UK Skoda service manual I see that Diesels (inc PD) have intervals specified as 100k miles!!! What makes me think dealers think large car = large (servicing) cash cow?

The information is on the TIS CD. You have to install the checksheet generator program - go to the "disk1" folder on the CD and run the "setup.exe" found there. 30,000 /3 yr service is basically just oil/filter change and (optional) pollen filter change (if youre so inclined - I wouldn't bother). Plus a load of checks....like check doors don't squeak and most important of all ... check you've charged enough on the invoice - (don't forget that all important sachet of windscreen washer fluid!!

In the case of the Galaxy it is due to the low quality of the components e.g. evaporators which have poorly soldered joints. Once a dealer gets his hands on it forget about reliability, they haven't a clue..... Aircon systems should never be "topped up" , they should always be empty under vacuum (which takes up to an hour for removal of moisture and check for leaks) before new refridgerant is added. Other manufacturers aircon systems go for years and years without problems (e.g. Toyota)

60.3 mpg!!! Norwich to South Yorkshire mainly A17 Speed cameras everywhere so 50-55 mph max.

Lots of posts for and against last year on this topic. Try a forum search on "tuning box" or "chipped"

Don't open up the unit, you'll invalidate the warranty! Just try from the the front of the unit, small soft brush (maybe a toothbrush) to loosen the dirt, and a vacuum hose set at low to suck it out :( Worked with mine! :( Although mine was 4 yrs old when it started. If its still the same, complain and complain again... :(...under warranty....

It seems to be attached to a solenoid valve which I think is the TCS (turbo control solenoid) I doubt it will effect emissions, rather performance.

As mentioned before, dust builds up (and sticks) on the small sensor fan in the control unit (just to the left of the display behind a tiny grill) and eventually the blades start brushing against the fan housing (like in a lot of PC's) causing a rasping type noise, and eventually stalling the fan. The best way to clean is a small photo brush and suck with a hoover hose, but take care as if the fan were to rev too much, it may be damaged

Weak mixture? TDi? Where do these jokers get their training? No such thing as a weak mixture with diesel. Will have a look tomorrow..

The only thing slick about slick50 is the crap they says it can do. Believe me, at best Slick50 does nothing, at worst it buggers up the lubrication system (no such thing as PTFE that can stay in suspension). Been there, done the damage...

If its the connector that splices to the MAF loom, this connector is not connected to anything but should clip to a flimsy clip located way behind the air filter box on the lh bulkhead. (Impossible to see normally). They pulled it off while "breaking" open the filter box! There is a small vacuum hose thats a push fit into the filter box at the back.....

Whn you add a reply, in the box labelled file attachments put the path of your jpg or gif file. Make sure to edit the file so it is small and limit your resolution. 640x480 seems best.

Nut is 18mm. Original part needs an 18mm socket. Aftermarket parts (i.e. Delphi) can be 17mm (and are supplied complete with new nuts!) No (seperate) washers are fitted. If you can detect any slack (even 0.5mm) at the ball joints (if you know what I mean) No. Yes!! - it gets amplified thoughout the suspension. I know what you mean, even deliberately driving over a bump on one side only doesn't help. You have to check the slack in the ball joints....maybe both need changing.

For benefit of boomoottna1.... Wiper motor electrics 1999 year

If anyone asks, you didn't get it from me.

Black cloud? Sudden Turbo failure usually a white cloud with a loud bang Sucked all the oil out? I think not, did she continue driving for another 50 miles? Get a 2nd opinion, sounds as if it might not be what you've been told. Anyway, small independents will rebuild an engine for a reasonable price. Bottom end (which I doubt) can be rebuilt without removing the engine. As can changing the turbo. BTW What mileage? FSH?

Many years ago, I used some Ford oil (??-30W) in my old Passat instead of the usual 20-50W. Within a couple of thousand miles it started with the blue smoke and a terminal appetite for oil. Oil does make a difference.

Perhaps Ford/VW/Seat might take note. Their dealers charge WAY too much, and are generally incompetent when it comes to fixing faults...

No scratch remover in the world will remove those scratches! You have to refill them. If you are dextrous enough, try carefully brushing in paint, cut well back and then blow over with plenty of lacquer. Alternatively maybe you can fit those Golf type protection plates if they do em for renaults... Hope things go well with your Dad, go and fill up the Gal....

:lol: Sounds as if you've overdone it! Looks like a respray and plenty of lacquer required (maybe Renaults skimp a bit on the lacquer) Also JML sounds like its another name for Tcut. The problem with tcut is once youve gone through the lacquer, the paint comes off like billio :lol: :( Scratches around handles seem to be from peoples hands/fingernails etc. You always seem to get them no mater how careful you are :lol: Plently of polish/wax seems to be the best protection.

Come to think of it, you might be right (although its some kind of plastic and not fibreglass). like others I would leave it..... (maybe just have a go at polishing it if it were a new car) Or put a matching one on the other side and call it customised :o