seatkid

You mean like the one below? A modified frame to alleviate the misting up syndrome <_< ....not sure if its fitted as standard to later models though. It looks as if the additional cover makes the frame a bit thicker at that end. That cover at the end will snag behind the motor, but I would have thought the frame is flexible enough for you the persuade it to pass with a little hand pressure. If setting the wipers vertical helps then fine but I can't see dealers loosening linkages..

No Jim, rather you have a PCM (ECU) related problem. This explains your auto problems. The engine speed control is erratic and (incorrect) information is or is not being sent to the instrumentation pod (and probably the auto box controller). Could be a wiring fault (bad earth?) or faulty pcm (its not been underwater?). Diagnostics should show something.

Ian, I've never heard of un-reinforced tyres - what are these? Something worth looking out for as some fitters may be tempted to fit them. Models which run on standard steel wheels (6J x 15) specify reinforced tyres as opposed to a standard tyre. This is because the vehicle is too heavy for a standard tyre of that size (which is 195 or 205 section). Using an underated tyre will automatically render your insurance void and there are cases reported where insurance companies have refused to pay out. The 7J x 15 alloy wheels however use a standard rating 215 section tyre. The extra width of the tyre allows this. Some tyre places seem to be unaware of the difference between a reinforced and unreinforced tyre... <_<

WDS is the VW diagnostics system used by dealers! There is a device called a WCS - wastegate control solenoid.

In that case you got away with it. :( The best way to make sure its fully charged is a loooong journey as other have said.

The odour filter is a carbon impregnated version of the pollen filter and is a lot more expensive than the standard filter. Its designed for use in heavily polluted areas (mainly eastern europe) to supposedly prevent corrosion problems on the (poor quality) evaporators. see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.php?showtopic=1539 for pollen filter changing photos

So far its taken 5 minutes....fitting as they say is a reverse of the process.. Step 5. Refit the filter/frame - Tips on fitting: 1. Watch the wiring behind the wiper motor as you put the filter back 2. The centre bar of the frame snags behind the wiper motor - help it with your other hand. 3. Once you get past this point fit the rh side of the filter/frame into the housing and slide the filter/frame to the right and clip it back in. Step 6. Refit the bulkhead extension:- Be carefull not to tear the foam fillers at the sides! offer the right hand side first, the bulkhead extension slides under clips at both sides but you will probably need to lift the centre with your hand while youre doing this. Refit the three 10 mm bolts - take care not to drop them into the engine! (Like I did! :( ) Total time - about ten minutes.

Step 4. Pull the filter from the frame and replace it.

Step 3. Pull the filter to the drivers side - watch you dont catch the wiring looms behind the wiper motor. The frame has a centre bar which can snag on the wiper motor on the way out (and in) - just use your other hand to help it round it. Once its over the drivers side it comes out easily.

And pull the frame and pollen filter forward (at the clip end)....

Step 2. continued.. You need a good light to see this. Disengage the plastic tang that holds the pollen filter frame.

Step 2. With this removed you are going to remove the the filter in the direction of the drivers side. Note: it doesnt matter about wiper position!

Step 1. Remove the bulkhead extension by removing the 3 x 10mm bolts. One at each end and one in the centre. Pull the drivers side out first and then the rest will follow...

Sorry rwtomkins, but I think your battery is a gonner. :( With a 15 amp boost charge (assuming it is pumping out 15 amps) - your battery should rise to 15 or 16 volts. If it is only getting to 12.6 v you have one or two cells duff. 12.6-12.8v is the open circuit voltage of a rested fully charged battery at room temperature. i.e. no charging current or load for 10-20 mins+. With the engine running and no electrical loads, you will see between 14 and 15 volts on the battery. Silver Ca (they are still lead acid) batteries only differ electrically in that they require a higher charge voltage

There is a plastic tang on the housing left hand side (near centre of windscreen)which clips the filter when inserted. You need to pull this to release the filter. Maybe yours is broken off. see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.php?showtopic=1531 for pictures

Yeah....must be going blind :blink: :o Too much internet.... :o

Is the idle speed (in neutral) correct? There is no kickdown switch, the kickdown point is determined from the accelerator pedal position (TPS throttle position sensor) - this information is transmitted from the PCM (ECU) to the Automatics AG4 module electronically. Its pointing to a TPS related problem. The TPS may be faulty in which case diagnotistics will confirm. The PCM/AG4 can be programmed to adjust the TPS position electronically (via diagnostics). Also the AG4 "learns" certain parameter about the TPS. If the link between the PCM and AG4 is lost then I expect the AG$ will enter/work in "fail" mode. First I would check your accelerator pedal is operating correctly (travelling the full distance from idle to full without obstruction). In the case of a petrol engine also check the cable end at the throttle body on the engine. Then check all electrical connectors to the auto box are where they should be...(not hanging out) If thats OK then I would disconnect the battery (negative) for ten minutes to reset any strange parameters in the PCM/AG4. Remember the radio code will be lost! Then if the problem is still there, a trip to the dealer to check on the diagnostics is required. :blink:

I last bought Continental Sportcontacts 215\60R15H at

Definitely another poltergeist manifestation? :o That another Ford dealer was of no use is no surprise.. :blink: A module communications network problem methinks. (2002 Ford TIS is really helpful on this topic ) Wiring/electrical problem - the clue is that turning the headlights on cures the problem(s) - come on you guys, any guesses?

Dave dave dave dave dave, You should know better by now - how long you been a member of this forum? Don't you believe us? "Castrol performance" is not a UK oil type as far as I can tell - its a generic marketing term "Castrol - performance oil". They could have used anything from plain GTX to a synthetic - did you see the bottle? (Don't tell me, its in a tank) But then on the net.... :blink:

1. not much 2. about 200,000 miles at a guess 3. read all about it.....step inside the forum

I think SA means http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html

Neil - He has stepped beyond the bounds of what he can do. He can write "rack leaking" or "rack excessive play/wear", i.e. the grounds on which he failed it. But not a specific requirement for work to be done. There are specific instructions in the MOT on what components should be checked and what for. For instance only front outer CV's can be failed - not the inner or rear. He obviously has done this with a view to forcing you to having it repaired in his garage. What is wrong with the rack anyway? A second MOT elsewhere could save you loads? At least get a second opinion. MOT Testers are the same monkeys that service your car. I personally know of two MOT's where the tester(s) failed something that another tester passed with flying colours (and not a borderline job either - because I asked) - just for the

I thought only the 2.8 V6 had traction control.. ;)

What year and model is this haunted vehicle? Or do I have to gaze into my crystal ball? ;) I forsee 3 possibillities:- an (intermittent) short in the wiring loom to the motor a faulty wiper motor module (which can be changed seperately from motor itself) a faulty GEM and soon youre going to meet a tall dark handsome stranger.... ;)