seatkid

My police contact processed the alleged anti-gatso plate through the anti-anti-gatso computer and came up with the number.. :blink: BTW my FBI contact also tells me this thread is being monitored as terrorist "keywords" were being used. :unsure:

:unsure: open the bonnett, look under the passenger side window near the wiper mechanism. "Search" (the forum) and ye will find.....(pics 2!)

Thats interesting...my Seat dealer told me that receiver/dryers never leak..... Can you elaborate on this information? (source, exact wording etc)

Genuine Knecht or Mann filters should be OK. (But are they genuine? - far east copies probably don't have the non return valve!) Before you jump to drastic conclusions I would next check the oil pressure switch. Otherwise it sounds very much as if your oil system is draining during the 8 hours. It could be the oil pressure relief valve in the engine block leaking or the oil pump itself. It would be unusual for oil pumps to fail at 70,000 miles unless it hasn't been serviced well, maybe its really done 170,000 miles and is worn. Has the engine had any major work done on it (or parts changed).

Change your oil filter. The non-return valve in the oil filter may be leaking causing it to drain when stood a long time. Use a good quality OEM filter (e.g. Original Ford)

Is that number plate legal? B)

Welkom ann boord! B)

more like the expounds! My flexible friend says....ouch!

don't tempt me.... B)

Nice wheels....glad to see legal number plate (pet hate) Don't know why you lowered it - makes very difference visually IMO. A rear spoiler always looks nice...if you want to spend some more money, B)

IIRC the dual a/c has one compressor and two evaporators. I wonder if phillevy has confused the dual temperatue control c/c (standard on Ghia) with dual a/c?

Galaxy 1998 - 2000 and a half Some fuses are for options you may not have... F1 20A F2 10A F3 5A F4 10A F5 15A F6 10A F7 20A, 25A (as of 05/99) F8 30A F9 30A F10 30A F11 20A F12 15A F13 3A F14 10A (TDi), 20A (Petrol), 25A (PD) F15 30A F16 30A, 10A(TDi) F17 10A, 30A (66KW with coolant heater) F18 5A F19 5A F20 10A F21 25A, 30A (from 03/98 to 08/98 and as of 05/99) F22 30A, 25A (from 03/98 to 08/98 and as of 05/99) F23 10A F24 25A F25 3A F26 30A F27 25A F28 10A F29 5A F30 3A F31 15A F32 3A, 10A (1.9TDi) F33 25A, 30A (as of 05/99) F34 25A You can do the rest yourself, B) , its on the TIS CD (Fuse and Relay information charts) I accept no responsibilty for transcription errors...

The TIS isnt very user friendly by modern standards and in some cases such as yours where you want to know all fuse details you have to trawl through all the individual bits B) . Start the TIS, select Wiring Diagrams, then select vehicle Galaxy 1998-2000(and half), double click index. Then click on F (for fuses) and scroll to the bottom of the list. The individual fuse details can be found at Fuse Details, 01-03-001 and there is a large blob chart in Fuse and Relay Information, 01-01-001. Unfortunately you need to study each bit for clues (words like 1.9tdi only, upto 01/99, vehicles with climate control etc) to compile your definitive list. A lot of fuse positions are used for different circuits depending on engine and date of production, thats why you have ABS on chart in several positions for instance or several functions under each fuse..... B) The scrolling is very iffy too! (It would have been so much easier if you took a photo or made notes first!) Numbers are the indexing system - don't think you can access this directly. Just the thing if your'e paying someone

IIRC all Shalaxy A/C variants run constantly. The C/C version modifies air temperature by altering the heater output automatically (on upmarket Audi's the compressor output can be varied with a variable displacement pump- but not on Shalaxies I think) That means the only time the pump should cycle is due to one of the safety cutouts such ice protection thermostat (in the evaporator) or the high/low pressure switches. Maybe they've put too much gas in!

This is where the TIS CD comes in handy. It will tell you that for a 2.3 engine, F4 was only fitted before 01/99 and is for the PATS module. So was yours built in 98? You really ought to make a note or take a picture before you pull loads of fuses. B) Which are the ones you're not sure about?

try a search on vacuum pipes and turbo

If its suddenly started to be very loud then something is wrong and could signal impending failure. :D Whistling turbos are unbalanced turbos. Maybe Ford service let some dirt into it or something.

start saving the other 0.31p for the a/c repairs 3 years down the line.... :D

How about a go faster stripe? :lol:

Try locking/unlocking the tailgate conventionally by turning the key in the (tailgate) lock. You haven't fitted a MKII loom in a MK I ?

High NOx comes from excessively high combustion temperatures which is what happens when its too lean (i.e. too much air).

johnb80 is correct - go to the top of the class! Cats are not compulsory - just emissions

Lambda has nothing to do with the performance of the CAT

The Lambda probe measures oxygen content and is part of the closed loop control system. Too high a reading indicates the mixture is too weak :lol: (with possible high NOx) and the ECU has not compensated sufficiently. Could be MAF or air leak after MAF

My cap has two holes at the edge. The correct way to use the u shaped hook is the engage it in both holes and then use the wheel spanner inserted through the hook and lever against against the tyre wall. Don't worry, the caps are quite tough and shouldnt break - If pulling by finger - you need to give a good old yank. (prepare to fall backwards though B) ) :lol: Those tossers in the garage were too idle and used a screwdriver :lol: Even then, they evidently twisted the screwdriver instead of lever so gouging your wheels/caps in the process. :P Changing tyres on an alloy wheel is stressful too - stand over the fitters shoulder and be a pain to ensure minimum damage..