seatkid

This is a backup to the temp gauge. If it starts flashing, you are seriously overheating and should switch off the engine. But it does flash briefly when you start as a self check (ie bulb is still working)

Switch to Continentals....the Germans choice.... Road surfaces in England are the worst in Europe for noise IMO, due to this obsession with high grip, low wear surfaces (so they say) with high stone content. I suppose the rest of Europe have got it wrong, they should all have square pin plugs and drive on the left..... :P All I know is its depressingly noisy living near a busy road in the UK.

If I was the suspicious type (which I am) I would say thats probably why she got shut! Only car I owned that "surged" was a old Polo - the surging was due to a burnt valve seat. A compression test revealed the cause... But perhaps you should try a proper plugin dealer diagnostic. to try and pin it down.

Just checked the TIS....depending on model variant, some models are fitted with fixed displacement pumps (e.g. Ford engines) and others with Sanden variable displacement pumps. I wonder if my TDi cc is equipped with such a variable displacement pump - these don't need to be "cycled" as delivery is varied automatically. This is reinforced as there doesn't seem to be a deicing switch in the evaporator on my model. There are on 2.0 and 2.3litre models.

May I just throw in my 2p worth..... I've noticed that when HID cars overtake me on a motorway, that if its a Mercedes or a BMW then although its obvious they're HID, when theyre behind me they don't blind me (in my mirror) and as they pass they have a heck of a lot of light on the road in front of them. But if if its a VAG group car (usually Golfs) they blind me from the rear and when they pass the light on the road in front of them looks rather weak and pathetic, not much better than a modern halogen setup. Same goes for Alfas and Fiats (pathetic) I dont think all HIDs are the same.

In my younger years I used to whip off cylinder heads,get em skimmed , regrind the valves and refit with new gaskets before breakfast....... Don't they do that any more? :ph34r:

I believe an EEC directive is now in force, which obliges aftermarket manufacturers to perform within 30% (IIRC) of the original manufacturers specification (braking performance I presume) Look out for the E90 compliance mark - I know Delphi (Lockheed) have it.

Which means old and new fluid is mixed. Yes the first two eggcaps full are usually loaded with crap, but do they draw at least half a litre through? (If theres water in the fluid, it'll be in the reservoir fluid rather than in the pipes so they draw that through the system......) What is the "correct" bleed order?

Try the pub at the local hospital, or wherever the local drug addicts hang out.

Delboyt is evidentally referring to a Ford MAF - I personally think the leaks are not due to this. Come on Fredt...don't be a girls blouse and get posting... or would you like me to say something that really winds you up (again)? ;) BTW, thinking of changing my name to seatkidt.....its seems to be the fashion....

Difficult one this, yes brake fluid should be changed but how often? (Its a bit like the air/fuel filter question) Depends on circumstances and the likelyhood of exposure to water. Ivors suggestion makes sense - how do you judge water content from that test Ivor? As my car spends 95% of its time in a dry garage, I don't feel the need for a 2 yr change, though a change and good flush through when you change pads makes sense, all the crap seems to accumulate in the calipers. Some insurance companies may frown upon brake fluid change being extended ... The big question is how do garages change the fluid? I suspect they just suck some out of the reservoir with a syringe and top up. Which isn't good enough in my opinion.....for what its worth.... BTW RWTomkins ...bent sills aren't on the schedule but are usually included in the service!! ;)

Strange how an Annual inspection service includes a thorough and detailed inspection to look for underbody damage and damage to the protective coating underneath.. ;) ;) :o NO IT DOESNT, it includes the damage at no extra charge. Isn't it about these dealers were made to walk the plank? :o This kind of damage should require several hundred pounds compensation..... May I point out that my Golf failed its MOT due to corrosion around a (dealer) bent (and straightened) sill. Its serious damage mate..... And because its happened twice now on my Alhambras, MY CARS WILL NEVER GO TO A DEALER AGAIN...

Dealer service ... what more can I say? Read my sig...

:) hehe poor ol Fredt is obsessed about that old lump of his - too much sniffing LPG methinks. Dellboy - From what you say its likely the oil and water leaks arent connected. start with a good visual inspection under and around engine. Oil leaks may not show as drips on the floor - theres lots of places for the oil to go e.g. when my oil filter leaked (overtightened by dealer) it coated the entire undertray and underbelly of the car - what a mess - check under the oil filter, around sump and rocker gaskets etc. Likewise check water hoses for tell tale signs - but here I suspect youv'e simply got a duff expansion tank cap - theyre not that expensive to change. If you've got damp + smells around heater, the matrix may be leaking.

No, I don't think you can have "too much" PS fluid. There is a known design problem where a low frequency "trumpeting" can occur on manouvering at low speed. It is not a serious problem but requires revised piping to be fitted to get rid of it. Mine does it occasionally, the dealers never read the TIS when I complained so it never got done.

All the drink in the world won't make stand corrected.....sic, under normal circumstances the compressor does run continuously when cc is on (auto) , 200psi describes only part of the system - between pump and condensor :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: bah - told u lot that even if they fitted square wheels that someone would say "thats how its supposed to be... spare wheel winches should be wound regularly to stop them seizing....

At the definite probability of boring everyone to death :lol: A guide to the shalalxy cc cc cc cc zzzzzz.... When you select auto, the compressor will engage and run, provided 1) external temperature indicated on the cc panel is greater than or equal to 5 deg C 2) the fan setting is one bar or more 3) the system isn't overheating (unlikely) 4) the evaporator isn't iced up (unlikely) 4) you havent lost all the gas due to a leak (quite likely) 5) you haven't got an obscure electrical fault (some poor buggers have nothing but) 6) there is an r in the the month ;) The compressor is a fixed displacement pump that runs permanently provided the above conditions are true and temperature control is acheived simply by diverting the already cooled air through or around the heater matrix with computer controlled flaps. When you press ECON, the compressor is switched off. Of course, just to keep you guessing, when you change the fan settings, you might lose the Auto/Econ indicator in which case you are expected to use the on board computer in your head to remember. BTW if it is in ECON mode ....turning on the demist function silently switches it to AUTO (and back to ECON when switched off) Note that the compressor will not work when its colder than 5 deg C outside - which is half the year in some european climates. When Auto is selected, the radiator fan will run at least at half speed (unless some prat has messed about with the programming) My opinion? :start rant...:lol: Why do you "need" to run the pump at least x minutes every y days? Simply so that Ford and VW can keep up the pretence that modern materials arent up to the job. Its another load of bollocks ..... Why do you "need" to change the pollen filter every 10k? You don't, but it makes Ford and VW dealers feel good.... Yes I know certain members will start up chuntering about the merits of servicing, all systems leak etc etc but I say bollocks, my heating system dont leak, break down, leak, throw a tantrum etc. NEiTHER SHOULD MY CC! :end rant.... ;)

I would say your battery's knacked - cell failure - should have over 14 volts when charging and almost full.

Nice drawings, must have taken you a while :D :rolleyes:

Virtually all, good brand batteries (e.g. exide, lucas etc) are lead-calcium. If they are clearly labelled "Maintenance free" they will be calcium technology , they usually have a charge indicator buit in. and at least a 3 year guarantee. You have to use Lead-calcium tech batteries on Ford engines as their "smart" alternator is set to charge calcium batteries. They require a much higher charge voltage than old Lead- antimony batteries which will die quickly or possibly explode if used in their place. Steer clear of cheap Motor Factor brands, in fact steer clear of Motor Factors.....try one of the national Tyre chains and ask for their best brands..

You can switch the cluster between km and miles. I'm not sure I can remember... ....IIRC.... the information is here

It will be something to do with the dropper resistor pack (they go open circuit) or the wiring thereto. Try a search or here

Sounds just like what happened to me. I initially blamed the garage for not checking the electrolyte (which they don't) but in hindsight I think its probable that one cell started failing (hence the low voltage) and this leads to all the other cells being "cooked". Be prepared for sudden total failure when this dodgy cell eventually dies which in my case occurred just a few days later. BTW "sealed" car batteries don't have gel, they are still liquid, calcium technology batteries should be maintenance free....

Yes, the Alhambra comments on things going wrong are interesting. I see yiou don't put a link to the compaints about Fords on the same site. I have only ever had Alhambras...and I was in a hurry.... All you lot calm down, what initially were wind ups are now getting out of hand.. I agree the Renault designs are more adventurous and in many way more desirable, but I also thought the same about the old Espace models, some of which now look :angry: :lol: I am no longer "in love" with my Alhambra (or MPV's in general), I accept AlanA's comments and can only add that only time will tell if Renualts latest attempt will suceed where in the past it failed... Now, if you want to talk about great cars, lets talk

Leave your Furby alone, you drive it too fast anyway! :lol: see here that'll be 0.01p to the GTEUK retirement fund please...