seatkid

Agreed Slipping belt = Sreeech! (You'll cringe when you hear it) squeaky belt = faulty tensioner (rapidly leading to failure) or alternator bearing (not so dramatic)

try here...(1998) or here...(2000)

Does anyone know if this is suitable for shalaxy rear brakes? http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/22349.jpg

More usually its the low gas pressure switch. So no, its already failed....check if you still get chilled air!

As I can't see 100m I guess its all right to drive with them all the the time :unsure:

Is this a Scorpio? Is it worth fixing? :unsure: I keep repeating .....95% of rough running problems are ignition related. Unless the ignition components are new, it is virtually impossible to say "plugs/leads etc" are OK. It is usually impossible to see the early breakdown (more leakage than breakdown) of these components. HT Leads particularly.... Its theyre old (5+ years), in this order treat yourself to 1. New distributor/rotor arm (if it has one) 2. New leads 3. New plugs Thoroughly examine and clean coil(s)/coilpack.

tick.........tick......tick...tick..tick....weeeeeeeeeeeeh! :D

100% agree with VR6galaxy. MAF sensor has nothing to do with ability to start,run or engine idle speed, smoothness etc.etc. You are being RIPPED OFF by Fraud dealer - (a MAF sensor over the counter is about

:D ooo...errr....oh dear....:o don't try turning it over again until you get to look at the chains, there may still be hope... vr6 galaxy - Can't they be inspected from the top end? e.g. remove cam covers. from previous posts it appears that VR6 chain tensioners go suddenly leading to slap and rattle followed by detatchment from sprocket..... what is about VAG's inability to design a tensioner that lasts?? (cambelt versions as well) :D

Wouldn't take much notice of his advice, he might have well said 1) Change Engine 2) Change Vehicle It could be (and is likely to be) something simple - I suspect the stalling and lack of starting may be two different faults. When you said fuel was coming out of the filter, is the filter high up in the engine bay and does the fuel come out at considerable pressure/volume? The reason I ask is the in- tank pump unit can split internally and the fuel delivery is then virtually nil - giving no start syndrome even though you can hear the pump working..... As for irregular idling speed - if its a rough idle then it could be an ignition fault - ht leads are often culprits. They also give the no start symptoms.. Examine plugs and change if necessary esp if its been 30k miles or more since last change...also give the coilpack a good inspection. Remember over 90% of no start or rough running problems on all petrol engines are ignition faults. (leads/plugs/coils)

Mixed up b******t. Yes CCA is a better indicator of battery starting performance but its the large figure next to "CCA" IIRC should be in the range 380-480 (mine is 450) and IIRC is the no of amps it can pump out at 0 deg F for 30 seconds. Ah has no relation to CCA. If by Motor Factor you mean a Motorist Discount centre then they usually sell cheap jack rubbish. But so long as you have a written guarantee...... Remember that Ford engines (2.0L and 2.3L) are fitted with smart alternators that require Silver Calcium tech batteries. Old tech batteries (Lead - antimony) will have a short life and could possibly split or explode....

My Bro-in-law does....but he lives in Poland. I believe it is the law to switch to winter tyres in winter over there. (Also to drive on headlights Nov - Feb) Remarkable grip on snow and ice compared to our universals.....and surprisingly they seem to last... But think of the stripped locking nuts.... :(

Its a cable operated gearbox. Either a cable has snapped or more likely cables have become detached - start with a visual in the gearbox area (volunteer needed to waggle the gear lever).

Probably made out of recycled mobile phones... :D I recommend you stick to major brands .... IMO Continentals are the bee's knees.. :D

VR6: Is the engine meant to sound that rough? Whats a coilpak? has the garage stuck the right oil in the engine! more's to the point have they overfilled it! is the aux heater working! what the hells that whineing noise from under the rear of the car! Why am I only getting 12 mpg? What was that bang? I thought it had a camchain! How can I convert this lump to LPG? Why is it worth so little?

see here re smell The bang may be the sloshing of the petrol in the tank, it does on diesel and is more a thud than a bang and it can repeat two or three times after a brisk stop. You should check the lower engine mounting the bolt often snaps see here leads to all sorts of noises.

Probably For a definitive answer you need the engine code. This can be found in many places... 1. On a sticker inside the rear right hand side compartment cover. 2. on the engine on the front of the blockbelow the joint between block and head 3. On a bar code sticker on the toothed belt cover 4. On your registration document. 5. On your dealers computer If it AFN its a 110bhp, if its AHU,ANV or 1Z its 90bhp

IIRC the throttle pot is a dual track device so I wouldnt think it likely - IMO the ECU is limiting power - a full diagnostic "should" show why - I would take up GSMguy's offer pumping the throttle may just be "pushing" the software into a temporary acceleration mode. I wonder if it could be a boost pressure sensor fault Did this fault gradually appear or was it sudden?

doesnt the VR6 sound the same when the tensioner's worn out? :rolleyes:

What if it started up when parked up in a garage? (next to your spare can of petrol and other flammable material :rolleyes: )

Great for rear end shunters... :rolleyes:

:rolleyes: Why not just switch on the heated seats instead? :rolleyes:

If its a really cold day and youre a gentle driver, it may take many more miles than that to warm up, sometimes all the heat from the engine is being used to heat the cabin. The engine (esp 110) is that efficient. In fact the 110 Tdi was, and I think still is the most thermodynamically efficient production diesel car engine ever produced. Is there a [MAF] problem? Or are you unsure of the engine - check the engine no. or look for the red i in Tdi.

Prior to 1998 models "light" up instruments (i.e speedo etc) when ignition is on (and at brighter levels than with headlights on). The electrics were completely reworked in 1998 and now instruments dont light up with ignition only. Personally I preferred it the old way.

Yes I've read a number of times about snapped chain on the VR6. :P Must be a pathetic design as a chain should be for life. :P Maybe we should consider buying Toyota's instead.... :P