seatkid

Must be a petrol model, diesel owners rarely have to open their flaps......... :blink:

97 2.3L with climate control....whir.... You need to check Fuse 34 which is a 25A fuse, blower motor relay K73 (which also powers the rear blowers via F39...) and the Heater blower control unit A130, it could also be the main ATC unit (

what year? there are several variants on the electrics.....

you got climate control? what year.....

It helps a bit with the warm up time, helps more with keeping the water warm when stood. When in -25 deg C temperatures, you also need to blank off 2/3 radiator to get anywhere near normal temp! Sorry this is the price you pay for high thermodynamic efficiency! But you should have an auxiallary heater fitted on the diesel - the snag is it is sometimes slow to kick in...if at all... my philosophy - 1. keep car in garage 2. Heated seats on.....mmmmmmmm 3. 1st 2-3 miles with heater completely off (why do I want cold air blowing?) 4. Then turn heater on...

Deja vu? This post looks familiar.... :) I take with a pinch of salt this alleged "stops working after 5 attempts", as mine tried five times one morning and I thought O bother... but a couple of days later....tick....tick..tick.tick..woosh,...houston,we have ignition....;) I would think the only intelligence it has is a thermostat.... They complain when they see it, now they complain when they don't..... :blink:

;) Like posts repeating themselves :) Like posts repeating themselves ;) Like posts repeating themselves :blink: Like posts repeating themselves :) Like posts repeating themselves

Ford Dealer.... Mission Impossible III Wait...cut the Red wire.....No.. cut theBlue one....NO! (TOO LATE) Just charge him for two hours labour instead! :blink:

Yeah glow plugs, but remember.....on a diesel wait till the glow plug light goes out before starting the engine otherwise black smoke will occur!

check the sills immediately behind the front wheels and infront of the rear wheels. If they jack the car up, they often catch the vertical lip on the sill and...... :blink: :) ;) **** ~^! You won't have a problem if they use a drive on lift.

You're being picky..... :) It depends on what your used to...... New exhausts are noisy for a while..... TDi engines can be noisy, depends on individual installation, some are quieter than others. Check the engine mounts and look for loose or missing bits (are all exhaust mounts fitted - properly?) Turn up the radio :blink:

Well your engine isn't that loud then... :) ;) . The ticking is the characteristic sound of the auxillary (or booster) heater starting up on a cold day. try a search on heater and all will be revealed! Grow to love the sound as you generally can't get rid of it (it only comes on in really cold weather...) :blink:look here for instance..

FAQ No.367889 Don't panic! One or both of your anti roll bar drop links is worn..... a very common problem....every Shalaxy gets them..... there are some picture 'ere easy job to fix, but requires some muscle and decent spanners...new links cost approx

My opinion is.... There is no MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor on a Galaxy 2.0l Petrol engine! - They are only fitted to (Ford) diesel engines! The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor controls the correct fuel-air ratio. A faulty MAF leads to severe loss of mid to high end power. It is important to replace the MAF with the correct type (there are many different models even if they look the same...) Looks as if Hungarian dealers are no better than UK dealers.... You didn't say what this fuel pressure problem was....

I suspect you worry a lot ....remember... dealer mechanics don't! ;) don't worry,like all other VAG leadsets I've seen, leads "come away" from the caps if you pull, they are seperately assemblies and just push fit together, they go back together easily....... The caps are "stuck" because the rubber insert forms a tight seal on the ceramic post of the plug in addition to the wire grip on the plug screw. It often helps if you can twist the cap a little as you pull to break this seal....AND they need a GOOD TUG! Bruised knuckles?....wear gloves...... looks like you need to take up VR6galaxy's kind offer

OK I believe you - but the right tool is the key. How about using a bent piece of stiff wire (e.g. welding rod) as per rough sketch http://img136.exs.cx/img136/4008/wireloop9xl.png The trick is to lower it so the loop goes over that tang.....

surely it can't be that difficult....let's see.. ....whir of CD drive again..... 1. Remove the air cleaner assembly 2. Detach the spark plug leads from the engine covers. 3. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the ignition coil. 4. ..Engage the spark plug lead in the tool and insert the tool into the spark plug recess. ..Push the special tool down onto the spark plug lead connector. ..Twist the special tool clockwise to engage the tang on the spark plug lead connector into the cut-out in the tool. ..Pull off the spark plug lead connector. well that seems easy enough! ;) IIRC another forum member made his own tool out of copper pipe, cut it lengthwise so it can slip over the wire, and have a slot at the bottom so you can rotate it and catch the tang....http://img176.exs.cx/img176/903/vr6tool8qi.png

Good point MM

Mines about half way... let me see...[sound of whirring CD drive...] Hard shifting...Possible Source(s):

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: sounds like a particularly creative bunch of Muppets.... if the ABS light doesnt light briefly when you first turn the ignition on then they disconnected something electrical and you probably dont have a working ABS... The handbrake warning light has nothing to do with ABS - sounds like a problem with the handbrake adjustment or switch.. Yes...but likely to be the switch.... Not common but stripping it down is the only way to find out.. Several.....and you understand correctly.....

sounds like the infamous relay 30 again....

Why on earth would the valve timing have changed? Only if someone changed the chain (have they?) and put it back wrong, then the running would obviously be lousy and the engine wouldn't last very long without damage...... What was this fuel pressure problem thats been resolved? Has it been in a for a proper Ford diagnostic? and an emission check? With massive lack of power and heavy fuel consumption, these would pick something up. Has it had a proper service (air filter, plugs etc)? Are you using the correct engine oil? Ford engines are VERY sensitive - sticky valve syndrome? A compression check should be dead easy for any garage to do (with the correct tool) and would eliminate burnt /sticky valves straight away. Have you checked all the vacuum piping for leaks? What mileage is this engine anyway and did you buy in this condition? Did you change the MAF sensor? (for a genuine new one?) Was the lambda sensor changed for a genuine Ford one? (not a "universal" one)

I'm confused...he said he changed the airflow meter... what is this? the MAF sensor? BUT has he changed the air filter? - i.e. try the simple things first...... THEN change the MAF sensor

:) :huh: :) :)