seatkid

Agreed, loose or missing bolt...

Mafs are increasingly more common on all types of engines. They are used to aid compliance with ever stricter Euro emission regulations. They are one of many sensors used in the calculation of the "correct" fuelling quantity and to avoid over fuelling in particular. Because the technology is so unreliabe (maybe even deliberately so?) I personally think in their present form they are a mistake. It is possible to calculate air mass using other (plus additional) sensors, engine speed etc. but the in thing is for designers to choose the MAF approach. Remember people like Bosch design the fuelling and engine management, not VW or Ford..... One reason why MAFs are more unreliable on diesels than petrols is that a diesel has no throttle and umpteen times more air (and exhaust gas recirc) is sucked into the engine via the MAF.

If you have the internal movement sensors (ultrasonic) they are prone to go off when there is an abrupt fall in temperature, usually in the evening and when a sunroof or window is not properly closed. If it is a nuisance, turning the key in the door lock twice in the lock direction disables the alarm (led will no longer flash and deadlocks are also disabled).

I too need to change my evaporator - although the alternative will be to have it done at a Seat dealer in Poland later this year for a fifth of the UK price..(my parts) When I looked at the task (went at the dash for about half an hour before giving up) - I couldnt really see why you need to drain the coolant. Although I'm not sure, I think I could get to the A/C pipes on the engine bulkhead just by removing the scuttle under the window. Stripping the dash is what put me off. I also have a problem in that my radio won't come out - I've buggered up the latches at the sides and its locked solid.. If I needed to disconnect the heater matrix it would just be at the top end - there should only be a little spillage as this is the highest point.

Its a 70 litre tank with room for about 10 litres in the expansion space/filler tube. I once got 80 litres in on a very empty tank. But I had to try very hard and long and it was lierally brimmed (Netherland cheap diesel but coming home..) I would say it doesnt look right. When you fill up, check your not leaking fuel (look underneath) In any case, go and complain to the filling station - they are obliged by law I think to check the calibration of the pump (which sould be done regularly) - they just pump 10 litres into a calibrated flask - doesnt take long. If they don't play ball - complain to your local trading standards officer.

1. Decide exactly what tyre you want. Give tyre places no scope to steer you to their top profit range.. 2. Phone around all your local places particularly independants - try price match ruse and discount for 4 rather than two. (Don't forget VAT balancing valves etc.) 3. Avoid popular MOT test times - e.g. end Jul begining Aug PLEASE Don't skimp on tyres and brakes - you could kill yourself (or someone else) You'd be surprised how close top makes can come to budget if you try. Last year I got four Continental Ecocontact 3 (upmarket range) for my Golf fitted and balanced for

Maybe its trying to warn you about tha extra 100cc which suddenly appeared in your engine block :( Try a search on ABS sensors...

Phone around a few independent MOT test centres and ask for cost of an emission check - say you are checking if the car is OK for MOT. I got one done on Golf for

Yes you're right, sorry my explation was perhaps too general. The hotspot created ensures that the air charge in the cylinder reaches the minimum ignition temperature when the air is compressed on the compression (ignition) stroke, as in the case of slow cranking, low air intake temperature and cold piston/sleeves. Note, on some vehicles - dont think this applies to VAG Tdi models - the glowplugs are activated "silently" when you unlock/open the drivers door, just in anticipation of a start..

Glow plugs are used to warm the air intake and so aid cold starting of diesels. When a diesel engine is cold, sometimes the slow cranking speed and air temperature is insufficient for the air in the cylinder to reach the minimum required during the compression stroke for ignition. Back in the days of indirect diesels (which was the norm a few years ago), the prewarming period was considerable even during summer months, the culprit being their pre combustion chambers. However modern direct injection diesels are higher compression and suffer less from heat loss and most will start during summer without the aid of glow plugs. However dont think they don't come on just because the light didn't come on. On most vehicles, the glow plugs are activated during the starting period and continue for several seconds after it starts, in order to lower pollution and noise during this phase. The dashboard light doesnt light because we would all be confused by what was really going on. The light is only on when the ECU thinks there is a chance you won't start and kindly request that you wait.

Sounds like the old MAF sensor problem. Try a search on this topic. Disconnect the MAF sensor and if it runs better, then the MAF sensor is kaput. Another common problem is leaking vacuum pipes that stop the turbo from developing full boost. You also might simply have a blocked (dirty) air filter.

Let em talk....... :rolleyes:

IIRC the fobs aren't recoded, each key is unique and you recode the vehicle to accept the fob. You can have up to 4 (or is it 8?) different keys. Its somewhere on the TIS CD... But I may be wrong.

You can reset the indicator yourself - do a search or see here

For Mk 1 remotes the replacement batterry is a 2016 Lithium coin Cell - readily available even in Tescos. Keith I'm still on original battery (1998) - are you sure youre batteries flat?

Andyjflet, the PD engines use a replaceable paper cartridge in a housing not the old metal can screw on. From what I read, it is important the screw cap should not be overtightened. Doesn't it have a large hex on the top that you can use pipe pliers on? Keith did you slide the undertray out, and if you did, did you do it without lifting the car?

Whats this obsession garages have got with flushing? Flushing an engine can potentially cause much damage. The sump plug is under the engine <_< To get to it you have to remove the engine undertray :(

check vacuum pipes from vacuum pump through to turbo - theres quite a few loss of vacuum = no boost, common problem is they crack and leak. could also be tcs turbo control solenoid which sits in the middle of this piping and regulates boost by controlling vacuum passed to turbo

Don't know if its been mentioned but I'm pretty sure that all those rejected cars are put into the Ford Direct scheme.

IIRC I measured about 15mA. Your battery should be good for at least several weeks. Check battery terminal voltage - with engine running you should have between 14 and 15 volts. With engine off, a fully charged battery (stood for half an hour) should be greater than 13.2v. Make sure the battery is topped up - in my experience, this is never checked at a service.

Have you taped up the gap between the mirror mount and mirror (i.e) where it swivels)? - my Alhambras all whistled from there - stuck a foam bit in there to stop it....

Yes, of course, it was a previous dealer guv....wasn't me mate... :angry: Why did you change dealer?? Contact the previous dealer and ask their comments... :angry:

Confused. :angry: 1. Never heard of aluminium sump pan and/or plug on VW engines. 2. You wouldnt put an aluminium plug in a steel pan. 3. Even if it or they were aluminium - it shouldnt wear. 4. They have either cocked it up (cross threaded) or are pulling your plonker. 5. Demand to inspect it (or take a friend who knows something about mechanics) 6. If its damaged - play merry hell. 7. If the plug is worn - why not change only the plug? 40k and its falling to bits? :angry:

A few years back, I bought a replacement thermostat from Halfords for my passat. It opened way too late, same symptoms as yours - excess temp and pressure caused failure of expansion tank! :angry: - the moral? Use only genuine parts e.g. dealer or O.E. On top of that the genuine VW part was cheaper!!! :angry: :angry: Similar story about my SAAB 99 many years ago - fitted with "Champion" spark plugs - they were the wrong heat range, tip broke off and bent valve/cylinder head damage ensued..and that wasn't the end of the story. :angry: :angry: :angry:

I think he means plastic rivets. Dome headed stainless allen key bolt and nut - far nicer than nasty self tappers :rolleyes: