seatkid

As far as I know On climatronic it works at 5 deg and above (indicated outside ambient). At 4 deg and below it stops.

Yes the analogue gauge is the water temp. It could be a faulty sensor or wiring thereto, but also slight possibility it is a CANbus (communication bus) problem which could be anywhere in the vehicle electronics (but most likely in the instrument pod itself.) In this case, watch out for other momentary glitches (fuel level, speed etc)

Are you talking about the trip computer?

On the climatronic version, it don't work less than 5 deg C outside ambient. The temperature switch is (but not always) mounted in front of the pollen filter. There has been a debate about the standard manual ac if this can work below 5 deg outside temp as this version has a temperature switch on the evaporator itself. So if you switch to recirc. and allow the inside air to heat the evaporator, maybe it can be persuaded to work in winter......

I think he probably had a "duty of disclosure". But contact him and get him to agree his responsibility before you do any work otherwise you will be on sticky ground.

Try the simple first, Remove the bulbs and check the contacts for corrosion and wear, scrape the lead blobs on the base of the bulbs with a knife or key as these sometime oxidise leading to intermittent operation.

There is a joint up towrd the bulkhead which always comes undone - strip the side strips and carpet and it will be obvious. There is a how to with photos on the Forum - try a search

Actually the Gas pressure switch is a 3 way device - its a high/normal/low switch. Maybe it was overfilled - that prevents the system working - maybe thats why someone thought the compressor was knacked. The slow leak has brought it back into range and it will work until .....anyway thats my theory... ;)

Shudder to think what you would regard as bad news :angry:

Yeah its working OK. The lack of flashing indicates you now have more than the min amount of gas (as seen via the low pressure switch). 5 -7 deg C is about right - the Galaxy system isnt fantastic (too small an evaporator) any lower temperatures would see the evaporator ice up. Just give it time, when the display starts flashing again it means the gas has leaked (beyond the min level). Good news is compressor IS working and you DON'T have a hole (road damage) in your Condensor otherwise it would stop in a matter of minutes. Chances are its corrosion of evaporator or pipes causing a slow leak. edit your profile...

ARB Link definitely

It took just 3 weeks to find out the "faulty valve" they changed on mine wasn't. ;) bet they didnt change the dryer after "opening up" the system by removing the valve ;) be prepared to be disappointed...after all the stats from the poll say it all. SHALAXY A/C (+dealer network) IS C**P! :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

Overheats quickly...no heater....ummmm....What I would do is... 1. Get the system pressure tested to check for leaks (which is where the funny smell maybe coming from [heater matrix]) 2. Change thermostat - check old one was opening (if not leads to overheating and possible no heater) 3. Change water pump - does anyone know if this model is one of those fitted with plastic impeller? [prone to break off shaft]) If that dont fix it, I dont know what will..

Sounds typical dealer bunkum (is that how it's spelt?) 1. CC Display has nothing to do with your leak, the flashing is deliberate and indicates there is a system fault - in your case, low gas pressure due to.....no gas..... 2. I know someone will say otherwise, but compressors rarely leak, if they do its very slowly. Your leak is most likely because..... The condensor has a hole in it (thats the first big radiator right at the front of the car), some model years the condensor has dodgy end fitments (where the pipes attach) or The Evaporator has corroded and split (Thats the cooling radiator inside the dash) (ouch!

If it knocks everytime you go over a bump then 90% likely its one or both ARB (anti roll bar) links. Common fault - do a search and there is everything there is to know about it on this forum. They are cheap and easy to DIY.

also all vacuum pipes, particularly to waste gate, which are prone to crack and leak.

Ever see those old movies where three or four injuns dance around a wagon do the war dance, chanting whilst swinging an axe? Now substitute a can of cheap oil for the axe and highly trained technicians for the injuns......

IIRC they stopped fitting the loom starting with the revised 1998 models. The light was only fitted only early top of range models. (I may be wrong though)

How about locking up all those with HID lights (esp the turn round corner types) - FAR more glare than any modern fog light which are set to illuminate immediately in front and to side of car. And what about blue lighting craze among the less well educated. Is it legal for motorbikes to have bright blue headlights? or bright blue leds stuck in your number plate?

These are for the car jack which is designed to sit over the sill lip. For a garage jack which has a lifting Pad, the sill should never be used. They should be positioned under the designated floor pan points (its on the TIS CD). The problem with garage jacks is that the pad needs to be adjusted up (or packed) such that the lifting arm clears the sill. Guess what happens if they don't.....

this article from diesel car explains it in simple english PDF file Personally I think CR will be the future. PD is cheap and cheerful but limited in potential....

(Pardon my language) RTFM...<_< "If the level shall lie in the region between B and C, it will be....." Yeah, I see what you mean.... <_<

Think I'll file this one under "strange but dealer did charge an awful lot?" section. Bet he did something else as well as MAF...

If you do a search you will realise the weak spot is where the wiring loom comes into the door thro the rubber boot. The quality of the wire used is such that it often breaks at the flexing point. You need to check out the wiring with a meter for continuity. Some where on the forum is info about colours and what to expect voltage wise at the motor plug end.

As suggested, try a new belt first, examine tensioner when changing (does it spin freely etc). (Thinks) changing tensioner is quite easy.