seatkid

Make sure you don't overfill the expansion tank - my experience of VAG models is any thing much above the MIN mark and the coolant is released until it level reaches just above MIN. (Don't know why, but it happened on my Passat, Golf, Alhambra)

Well as no-one has answered this thread I will... I think you will need to get the vehicle up on a ramp and remove the undertray and do a close inspection with the engine running. Could be anything turbo/manifold/exhaust/cat - most likely exhaust if she bumped somehow. Try an exhaust centre eg Kwikfit for an opinion.

Don't know if there is such a thing as a Seat TIS. The Ford TIS has all the info you need for an Alhambra Seek and ye will find :(

ABS light is shown as an LED on the TIS and so is unlikely to be faulty. Check the fuses F9,F10,F3,F20 (if its a pre 2000 facelift model) there maybe other fuses to check...

IMO from the cracked paint line - definitely broken, other half missing - looks like a valve. That pipework looks a mess - have you had rats in the engine? (my mum had once - made a right mess of the wring looms...

Even if the dealer is obliging, I certainly know that Seat UK wouldn't entertain it and the manufacturer has to OK any warranty work. AFAIK, by law, items that are clearly not reliant on the (10,000/1yr) service interval. e.g. paintwork, body corrosion, and lots of other things must still be covered under warranty. But any problems with the engine they will wash their hands of. 19000 miles before a 1st service is totally stupid (neglect) considering the warranty implications though depending on the use and care it may be perfectly OK. The price has to reflect the fact that the warranty is blown... :( If they decided to ignore (they must have known!!) the servicing, I would question if they ever checked the oil etc.

F34 (25A white) and also check F29 (5A orange) see here for layout For others looking at this thread ... note that fuse allocation depends on Year, engine and sometimes optional extras e.g. dual aircon etc...The best place to find fuse info is on the TIS CD wiring diagram section.

LB7Z - Satin Silver (VW name)

IIRC If you open the tailgate and look inside the RH storage compartment (where the jack is stored) there is a label with all the vehicle information printed.

If an engine mount goes (and it seems to be a common occurance on the Ford petrol models) and it causes so much damage, CAT, A/C then shouldn't you make complaint to Ford about negligent design?

The 110 bhp turbo is a variable geometry design. IIRC the exhaust direction is varied to regulate the boost and I don't think it has a waste gate. I have read that incorrect control parameters can cause the closed loop control to run away and is a design problem with VGT turbos in general. In this case the MAF is a critical component in protecting it. This might be what happenned...

I'm watching this thread with great interest........

Anti roll bar links - links the antiroll bar to the main struts They can be changed in situ without lifting the car - just a bit arkward cos of the torque required to undo/redo nuts. Tinyest bit of play in the ball joints and it sounds as if your suspension is falling to bits over bumps.

Not sure there is any benefit in changing gear oil nowadays - don't know if the gearbox has a magnetic drain plug either. Make sure the oil is correct - IIRC the VTX box is similar to the sierra in it requires a very special oil (looks more like ATF?) - ordinary gearbox oil will see it fail in a very short time.

I'd like some ramps but am seriously short of storage room - and ramps that fold down?

Sorry, No offence intended Ivor - less :( and more :(

Ivor, how about an Ivor project plan with the old timberwork? :(

Back in Nov 99 my first Tdi service was

:( hehe..

:( Nice one lads! Glad to see people willing to do the job themselves and treating their cars properly. Always have had deep reservations about dealers/garages. Many stories I could tell..... As a past collegue said when I asked him if felt nervous about doing a particularly tricky job on someone elses car which could be easily damaged - "It don't bother me - it ain't my car!" :(

Don't worry, on the Tdi there are two connectors on the MAF loom, one is unused and usually is clipped to the LH bulkhead though this clip is very flimsy. No-one knows what its for....

sarcasm always impresses me.... I have edited my previous post to bow to your expertise.

I used the Comma (or was it Holts?) (

Yeah, I washed one just to prove it could be done. (Pics posted - try a search) but its messy and lots of hassle takes a week to dry. Only worth doing if your'e stoney broke and you have a spare. Shop around and they're about

Check first the seal(s) is intact and correctly positioned. If the "leak" is at the rear, a small adjusment of the door latch may help.. As pointed out to me by a Ford/Seat body shop manager, there is no adjustment as such on Galaxy doors, the hinges are welded to the body and the doors, They have to be "bent" (or "yarked") to the correct adjustment. Before you decide to "yark" the door (by hand), try to determine exactly where the misfit is otherwise you will make matters worse.