seatkid

I too have a modern tight garage with 7ft door. Used sidelights initially, but now for a long time have two 1" x 12" x 24" kitchen cabinet shelves (one for each side) laying on the floor which forms a kerb, just roll up to it and the car stops. Have bikes etc with pedals only an inch or two from the front bumper. :lol: Also I find the weight of the Alhambra means the garage floor paint tends to peel under the wheels after its been parked for a while, so I park on 4 old carpet tiles. :D In nine years, I never bumped the Alhambra(s) once while parking and I've parked in some unbelievably tight spaces - the wing mirrors are very good on this model. I think its more difficult to park a conventional saloon car with extended bonnet and boot. Could be famous last words..... :lol:

That's show business!

Tape a pair of these to each bumper...http://www.musicoutfitters.com/ethnic/images/bulo_small.jpg

tut..tut..how many times do we need to repeat...TRY a search! How to change a pollen filter But I dont think thats anything to do with a drivers side leak...more likely blocked drain, displaced grommet,leaking seam in bulkhead or leaking windscreen. Look here and you will find something suspicously similar!

90 bhp models (98) should have a booster heater... On mine I lagged the pipes running under the car. It helps in winter. I found this on the TIS regading diesel engines cooling system Anyone aware that this shutter actually exists?

But then again MM is son of superman... :angry: When they changed the stat, pump etc. the Fraud garage should not have released the car without testing it out thouroughly, did they fit all new parts or refit the old ones? (because they thought they were OK?) You said.... I take it you realize that the max level is half way up the expansion bottle..If you overfill it will blow off the excess, and you can get a vacuum. Then, when it cools, when you unscrew the cap, the water level will drop. This observation may therefore be a Red Herring.... you also said.... Although you may possibly (now) have a head problem (has anyone ever heard of a cracked or warped TDi head? I never have...) it seems obvious to me that lack of coolant circulation was the initial problem.(cold bottom hose, rear heater...) An airlock in the heater matrix wouldn't cause engine overheating. I would take their diagnosis with a large pinch of salt. It sounds to me as if they refitted a faulty water pump which has now failed completely.To check, start the engine until it is near normal temperature (not overheating), switch off. Check the 3 pipes connected to the water pump, if they are just warm or cool the pump is gone. My recommendation is to ditch the Fraud garage (after you have a full [written] report of the work done to date and their findings) and go to a reputable independant and ask for a diagnosis.- don't mention anything about head problems...

Duplicate post... see reply in general discussion

Faulty MAFs look the same as good ones....some have reported that they fixed theirs by cleaning (using solvents), but I tried this and it didnt work for me. Driving with a faulty MAF (or disconnected) doesnt damage anything, just restricts power output.

Get the bits from VW

yeah, crankshaft seal, requires special puller tools etc, to remove crankshaft damper. Seal is part of lower timing chain cover assy which needs to be replaced as a whole. Done with engine in car, but you need a pit and those special tools. Best left to a (ford) garage....

Sounds as if youv'e lost the vacuum to the servo, this also operates the ICV (Idle control valve). Check all the vacuum pipework to see if a pipe has come adrift or has split. You probably still have brakes, but require 10x+ effort to operate.

Just checking to see if you were paying attention :D PD engines have VVT, so does 110ps TDi - the rest are fixed/wastegate types :)

er...no...IIRC.... Only 110ps (Mk1 model only) = variable geometry turbo with no wastegate All others = standard fixed geometry turbos with a vacuum operated wastegate On the 110ps engine boost is controlled be a variable nozzle controlled by a vaccum pipe. Possible culprits for low power are 1. faulty MAF Sensor, (the ECU thinks Air flow is low and restricts fuelling) 2. faulty Boost sensor, giving low boost pressure and so low output 3. Sticky actuator on Turbo, restricting boost at high loads 4. leaks in the vacuum system (anywhere), can't move turbo actuator full travel 5. faulty Control Pressure Solenoid 6. Don't forget to check for a blocked air filter! 7. Leaks in the Boost pipework (joints) or intercooler (holes from road damage) usually given away by a loud hissssss To check for turbo faults (and low boost due to vacuum faults) you need to T in a boost gauge and look at boost pressure under load. (IIRC 0.6 bar)

If it really goes down to the floor and it has been bled correctly (no spongyness with servo exhausted engine off) then... either 1) fluid leak 2) faulty master cyclinder 3) faulty servo If your not losing fluid, most likely faulty master cyclinder. sounds like a seal gone in the master cylinder (maybe contaminated with old fluid pushed back during brake change?)

Try changing the battery in the key (some have two) - clean it out at the same time.

If its steaming up with a/c on then most likely the a/c is not working. If the faint smell is "clinical" then possibly gas leak in evaporator.(I could "sense" this when mine leaked). If its "musty" then possibly heater matrix leak.

Well, you (I) learn something every day :) I feel under some obligation to point out that if a garage drained your system (causing the air lock in the first place) it was their responsibility to fill it and bleed it properly.

A possible culprit is one of the 4 wheel sensors or the wiring. Use the search tool to look for "brake sensor" or "wheel sensor" for example

Didnt know that Galaxy had such a thing. Dont think there are any seat/belt switches fitted. Probably only available on Pheotons (or whatever theyre called..)

Yes

:D I beg to differ.... There are fundamental differences between models fitted with a VW engine and those with Ford engines. Models fitted with VW engines do not have a deicing switch fitted in or near the evaporator. Those with Ford engines do. This seems to be because VW power units are fitted with variable displacement pumps which dont cycle like the Ford fixed displacement units. There is no sight glass on my Alhambra (or any other modern VAG model that I've seen) Its years since I've seen a car fitted with a sightglass. Both the Climatronic and manual versions have no capability to "partially" recirculate the air. Its either external or recirc. The "valve" people are refering to is usually the 2nd filling point hidden behind the drivers side indicator.

Sorry, I was refering to the garage. The maximum price for an MOT is stated in the MOT rules (

That.....I think.....is illegal

Yes Buy a new battery ;)

correct, but at that temperature you would generally be using lots of heat, which helps to dry things out.