seatkid

Whats happened to this site? Can't upload images, update avatars or photos anymore? http://img236.exs.cx/img236/1643/image081dt.gif

On the rear brakes, the pistons have to be wound back, this is the self adjusting mechanism for the handbrake.

Looky here :lol: car fuel and noise data and importing a car faq Specification Model Galaxy Description 1.9 PD TDI (130PS) Transmission M6 Engine Capacity 1896 Fuel Type Diesel Fuel Consumption - Metric [l/100 km] Metric Urban (cold) 8.3 Metric Extra Urban 5.5 Metric Combined 6.5 Fuel Consumption - Imperial [mpg] Imperial Urban (cold) 34.0 Imperial Extra Urban 51.4 Imperial Combined 43.5 Further Details CO2 Emissions [g/km] 176 Noise Level [dB(A), moving] 70.0 CO Emissions [g/km] 0.247 HC Emissions [g/km] N/A NOx Emissions [g/km] 0.319 HC+NOx Emissions [g/km] 0.354 Particulates 0.026 Euro Standard III Fuel Cost / 6000 miles

YES, IT IS NOT TRUE. It is an Urban myth invented by dealers....... The only problem you should be aware of is if you are a PD Owner: Don't top more than 0.5 litre of non PD oil to a PD engine (in emergencies only!) as the PD bit of the oil is then too dilute to do its job and engine damage may result.

For many years now, I've used VW Quantum synta oil. :)Its cheaper than Halfords/Castrol etc. and being sold by VAG IMO guaranteed to be better. The semi synthetic (silver can ) oil is excellent value for money, and my 1.4CL Golf has done 150k miles and it still doesnt use a drop despite occasionally going nearly 20k between changes! I even have been known to change the filter every two oil changes - (the filter in question was marked as for 30,000km duty) In recent years I tend to use the (gold can) fully synthetic, it defintitely gives a few percent more mpg and I feel more relaxed letting my Tdi Alhambra go 12-13k / 18 months between changes. I only use genuine (OEM) filters - either VW, Knecht or Mann . In the dark distant past I used Castrol GTX (crap), Duckhams green stuff (even crapper), Shell Rotella (great stuff) on my air cooled Beetle, and of course it was the Ford oil that did my Passat in :angry: Kept it going a while longer by using some extra thick synthetic Fiat stuff that is used in them big American miltary tanks..... :rolleyes: For you PD lovers, there is Quantum PD....... My local dealer claims to use fully synthetic bulk supplied by Esso, but is none too specific......

Mass Air Flow Sensor pictures... This is what it looks like on my Tdi... http://img88.exs.cx/img88/518/maf12np.jpg Step 1. Squeeze the clip on the plug and pull.... http://img226.exs.cx/img226/3694/maf20yl.jpg Step 2. Unfortunately I havent got a photo of me using a pair of pliers to open the rear clip to detach the pipe at the rear of the sensor, but I hope you get the idea.... ....missing photo!....... Step 3. Use an allen key to remove the two bolts at the front... http://img195.exs.cx/img195/1313/maf38ba.jpg Step 4. Pull the Maf away from the air filter box... http://img185.exs.cx/img185/3827/maf44xm.jpg

I just know I'm gonna get flamed by loads who say they know better :lol: , but.... as far as I can determine, 1.9Tdi engines with climate control are fitted with variable displacement compressors (iirc by sanden), but I suspect they have limited ability to "throttle down" or are just speed sensitive. The Tdi climate control version has no evaporator deicing thermostat fitted, and no way of determining when the evaporator is icing up. It therefore relies on external temperature measurement only. In other words its a desgn compromise. Before any flamers start, AFAIK all Ford engine variants are fitted with fixed displacement pumps and deicng switches which force them to cycle ....... :P :P :P :P :P :P

Technical Information Service on a CD. Ford distribute these to their servicing outlets, it contains everything from wiring diagrams to detailed instructions on all major service operations e.g. removing/refitting engines,gearboxes etc plus fault finding charts and TSB's (Technical service Bulletins) - which are issued from time to time covering recalls and solutions to commonly reported faults and design problems. However it is not a parts catalogue and it does not include any prices or labour times - these are on another CD unavailable to the general public... Most manufacturers use a similar system (i.e. CD) to distribute service information. The Ford TIS CD covers most of their models on one CD (covering a number of years). The ones in public circulation are pirated copies as Ford have never sold them to the public.. Unlike the Haynes Manuals it does not have any photos, but there are numerous engineering drawings. It assumes you have workshop equipment and all the special tools....

Wait till it stops raining.... :lol:

When did you last change the fuel filter? (its normally changed every 20k), it may be full of water. iirc there is a hand tap under the filter, hold a glass under the filter, unnscrew the tap and drain half a glass, inspect..... Other possibilities....

Yes. Make sure you give engine number as several MAF variants exist.. Shop around for best price, different dealers, different prices. A lot do service exchange for under

Sounds like a dry or worn clutch thrust bearing. Nothing too much to worry about, although noisy it usually won't cause any problem. You can change it when your clutch needs changing.

This must be some kind of record for the s..l..o..w..e..s...t ever plug change! No need to apply to Ferrari pit stop team... :(

Any tyre/battery/motor factor place that sells batteries can test your battery. They have a wonderful device that looks like a thick bar with 2 handles that they whack across your battery, and it instantly tells them if its man enough for the job..... But from what you describe, its pretty conclusive its knackered. Just make sure you get the correct size and I recommend a main stream brand - look for a three or four year warranty :ph34r: I recommend EXIDE batteries. I also always go for the largest size that fits in the battery tray ....Fit and forget :D look at this Battery size selector from exide Shop around by telephone, I got my Exide Utra battery from ATS - they price match.....and guaranteed to be fresh...Tip: avoid those motorist discount stores - the batteries you get sold might have been stored a long time....check the manufacture date on the battery is less than 3 months old.... :ph34r:

Except the MAF used in SHALAXYS is nothing like that in a Scorpio! Shalaxies use the "modern" Bosch design using a hot film sensor integrated into a hybrid i.c. and incorporated in an intricate plastic moulding with narrow folded air duct. That picture of a Scorpio is of a basic hot wire sensor in a cast alloy housing - no integrated electronics. I work in electronics manufacturing, tried to clean my Tdi MAF, it didn't work.... :ph34r:

If I were you I would put her over my knee and give her a good spanking.... Drain enough of the tank and add enough diesel to ensure >90% diesel mix. Make sure passers by don't see you with that syphon..:lol: Drain the fuel filter (IIRC there is a tap underneath it). Restart the car for a few seconds. Drain the filter again. Restart the car and take it easy for the first couple of miles. Any damage has already been done but I think its unlikely. Top up tank with diesel asap to dilute that remaining petrol.

You're obviously driving too fast! :huh: :lol: Three things come to mind, maybe its the wrong oil (maybe even flushing oil!) or... The cambelt maybe a tooth out (is performance poor?) get them to check..... or... did they disconnect the battery?..I think the (needle type) instruments recalibrate on reconnection...

The alternator workshop warning is when the battery voltage does not increase to the correct level in a reasonable time. But first, check your battery, as a duff battery can pull the voltage down, and this is the most likely cause. Then, using a voltmeter, check you get 14+ volts at the battery terminals, with the headlights on and the engine revving at 1500+ rpm, if not then most likely it is an alternator fault but check all wiring and plugs to the alternator and battery before you change it. Personally.... I do think its the battery thats at fault...

Yeah, the silver stars are supposedly +50%, but the standard fit (in mine at least) were the Osram +30%. So only a marginal improvement is to be expected.

I'm on my second set of Conti Sport Contacts at 60,000 - about half worn - so I get about 40K a set (rotated f/r at about 20-25k) and I change before 2mm of tread...

Supply is via Fuse 34 (25A), then blower motor relay K73 (which also powers the rear blowers...) and the Heater blower control unit A130, it could also be the main ATC unit (

fuelling is controlled by the ECU (Electronic control unit) sometimes called PCM (Powertrain Control Module) i.e. the computer. It takes information from several sensors, air/water temperature, air mass (MAF), lambda (O2) sensor etc etc etc. and decides how rich or lean the mixture should be. Cold starts are more than just about running rich, they have to warm up the catalytic converter etc, and minimise emissions. In other words, its blooming complicated.......and lots of scope for faults. There is no "choke plate" on modern cars...

Wouldn't one of those fresheners you throw in the toilet be more useful? :( Seriously additives - avoid

ultima?? sounds like a scorpio gone wrong :( anyway welcome, I'm sure if you try a search the question has been answered before...(about 3mpg :o ) :P

not very much---arent you in the wrong section?....or even the wrong site!