seatkid

:o TILT! :o You have to put another

Should be difficult, but it can be (and has been) done! If the high wattage filament is on the park circuit and the low on the stop, maybe the bulb check is getting confused or fooled as the current levels (and change) is wrong. If hes fitted a single filament bulb in a two filament socket, then the symptoms described would probably occur. He should check brake light operation with side lights on.. Also he should check his number plate and high level lights are fully operational.

Did you run them under inflated? What brand and size tyres were they? Were they reinforced (suffix R)? What mileage is the car? Can't see how it could be power steering related, sounds like a serious suspension geometry fault. Either the camber setting is all to cock or maybe you have extremely worn tie rod ends or may be somthings bent (anti roll bar maybe)

You might have put the wrong bulb in or the wrong way round. Check the bulb you fitted was the correct type for the position (single or dual filament) and (offset or no offset pins). If its a dual filament bulb that should be and is fitted, check its in the right way round. Check with the other side if youre not sure...

Drive backwards everywhere? :huh:

Yes, the compressor is driven from the engine via the auxilliary drive belt (the one that drives the alternator and power steering pump too). The compressor is fiited with an electromagnitc clutch. When electrical power is applied to this clutch, the compressor is physically connected to the belt drive, otherwise it is switched off. Ford engines are fitted with a fixed displacement pump, which means the faster the engine revs, the more it pumps and the more the a/c system cools. Temperature control is acheived by switching the compressor on or off either by the cc unit or a thermostat on non cc units. VW engines have a more sophisticated variable displacement pump, the output of this depends not only on engine revs but also the position of what is known as a swash plate which is located within the pump. this allows it to compensate for revs, pumping a constant rate despite a variation in revs.

I think its physically attached to the motor. Some more information here

:huh: Off the top of my head..... The compressor is a high pressure pump designed to pump refrigerant gas around the system. It uses reciprocating pistons to pump the refrigerant into the condensor. The condensor is the big radiator at the front of the car. It is mounted in front of the water radiator. Because there is a restrictor valve after the condensor, the gas get compressed in the condensor, to the point at which it liquifies. Because of the change of state from a gas to a liquid, the refrigerant gives out heat (latent heat of condensation), and its the job of the hot condensor radiator to cool this refrigerant liquid to as near ambient as possible. So the liquid refrigerant, now squeezes along through the restrictor valve (which is mounted on the evaporator) into the evaporator. The evaporator is a small radiator mounted in the dash, and all air coming through the ventilation system passes through this radiator. Because the evaporator is on the other side of the restrictor valve and on the suction side of the compressor, the pressure is very low inside the evaporator. With a combination of low pressure and ambient temperature of air going over the evaporator, the refrigerant boils and changes back into a gas. Because of the latent heat of evaporation, it cools the evaporator, drawing energy into the liquid. Thats how you get cool air!. Finally the gas leaves the evaporator and makes its way back to the compressor via the dryer, which is simply a device filled with silica gel or something to remove any moisture in the gas (which was put there when the system was filled) as water inside an a/c system would play havoc. Someone else can do the pictures.... Class dismiss.....

No...., its an electronic control module (a two speed regulator). Unless you are an expert in hybrid thick film microelectronics repair and armed with an unobtainable circuit diagram it is not repairable. However , a good clean and checking the connectors can sometimes do the trick. Before you conclude that the module/motor is kaput, check your wiper linkage as the most common fault is this seizes (and blows the fuse). Do a search on wiper linkage for more info.

It does. On a heavy galaxy it is only 1% - 3%, depending on speed and how hard its working. On my skoda fabia it can be as much as 10% when driving with a light foot and max cooling! Not true, on the overrun, the ecu cuts the fuelling to zero. Braking = energy lost as heat, so not braking saves fuel. It is sometimes more fuel efficient to cruise with the clutch in, you travel further than you would with engine braking slowing you, when you then need to apply power to maintain speed or go that bit at the end. Over the last 3000 miles I average aboout 52 mpg but I'm not in a hurry.....

yet another multiple post :huh: ....see other post

thats ok thats ok thats ok...(not really)

just disconnect each one and check their resistance with a meter. Spot the odd one out, IIRC they fail open circuit...also make sure that the sensor area is clean as a large build up of muck (presumably a mix of mud and brake disc metal debris) can stop them from working.

And [the Fraud dealer] most likely will misdiagnose the fault and cost you a packet in unnecessary repairs... :lol: :o :o

:D :D :D :D :o Thats why I do my own servicing... :o

Here's a link to the open university listing all the formula associated with drag factor, fuel consumption etc. Pay attention all you at the back, tomorrow there will be a written test....... :o

Your alternator is kaput...

Of course it also applies to Sharan and Alhambra. VOSA are as stoopid as some garages.... As for image uploads, as of today I also find that GOTO LAST POST DOESNT WORK. Somebody PM GTEUK and tell him nicely to reboot his server or something......

3 cylinders are at least half as good as 6 six cylinders.......

I think that one of them flagged will be the TPS turbo pressure sensor. If the output is not making sense to the ECU (i.e it cannot maintain a correct boost level) it cuts the boost to nil (safe mode). Reset when you restart the car. Check the wiring and the vacuum pipes which are prone to crack or rub before you go changing sensors.....this is particularly probable as you have 2 sensors flagged and they don't usually fail all at once!

I think upper twenties at least, if its running rich, could be lambda probe is duff, but check the simple things first like a blocked air filter. Is it lumpy? Could be plugs/leads/coil.

gearbox cables......

they probably just fitted it, gassed up and away. There was probably little or no lubricant in the system. When you change any a/c item such as a compressor, you must also change the dryer and make sure all items are filled with the correct volume of lubricant (as on the TIS)

:) :) :D

must.....resist...... :blink: