seatkid

Don't know about the Galaxy but on my Golf the "paddle" bit could be replaced and cost about

if the heater output is ok (hot,hot,hot) then thermostat, otherwise pump. Water flowing into the expansion tank is not normal, means its over heating and suggests its the pump failed. Change em both.

Isn't 0mpg about right for a VR6? :(

That would be the spare tyre then.... :( Paulmp: if you don't have the confidence and the right tools don't even attempt the locking nut, take it to a good reputable tyre place. I use a local outfit, the owner/manage always does it himself, he uses a one metre long torque wrench which sits square and close to the wheel. Says its not worth taking the risk, he sees virtually 80% of all locking nuts bust, and it can be a nightmare then to get em off.

Normal symptoms of a duff MAF sensor. Also check your air filter.

This is how to change the bulb

Start by looking around the alternator, is all secure, is the belt tension OK, tensioneres are known to fail and bolts to snap. Check the wiring going into the alternator. THen check all the wiring at the battery terminals for security. Then.....How about covering the light with a bit of tape? :lol:

???? fix it under warranty dont understand the question.....

Delboyt, In theory chains don't need changing, but VR6 engines have a known history of camchain tensioner failure. IIRC the Ford design is better , but if you start to hear rattling, thats a sure sign of tensioner failure and imminent disaster.

rapid yes, repair no, cost

They didn't do it correctly. They are supposed to fix the steering in the straight ahead position and retrack both sides. They took the lazy option because they changed the tie rod/joint on one side only and only adjusted that side. Take their claims of "accurate" tracking adjustment with a pinch of salt.

:lol: IIRC the sensor is a pickup coil (with embedded magnet) - a bit like a guitar pickup... it generates a small AC voltage as the teeth fly by. So using a multimeter you see the resistance of the coil. Open circuit indicates a broken sensor.

;) :o ;) :P :D :( <_< :) ;) ;) ;) :blink: :o IT'S THE WIFE :o :P :o :P

Which, I believe, is totally unsuitable for your car... :P Maybe for

Use a quality oil - preferrably fully synthetic (why? because good quality full synthetics don't break down as quickly as cheaper mineral oils, stand greater extremes of operation and generally have greater reserves of additives which guard against acids and aid soot dispersal) Use a genuine OEM filter i.e. not Halfords (why? because other filters are shit - the list is too long to type here...) Don't drive full bore everywhere. (why? the more fuel you burn, the more soot you produce, and this is generally the limiting factor on Diesel motor oil - how much soot it can hold without losing its properties - so if you average 25 mpg expect your oil to last at best only half as long as someone who averages 50mpg) Avoid frequent cold starts and short jorneys where the engine never reaches working temp.(why? because water is the other engine killer - it allows acids to form - above 100 deg c water boils and disappears......) Car manufacturers base their servicing limits on a considerably "worse than average" scenario, otherwise they'd never make it through the warranty period. If you understand what I'm getting at, you'll appreciate my view that 12,000 miles is quite a reasonable interval.....but only if you are sensible...

Yes. A large O ring. Did u check its not jammed in the airbox end?

Probably

MAF

By default, the boot locks automatically when you move. Door locking may possibly be a programmable option on VAGCOM - I don't know. The Dealer would know, or email Ford technical support. It is on my Skoda Fabia, it is programmed to lock all doors above 15kph. In the event of a crash that sets off any airbags etc. the doors are always automatically unlocked.

If the car is still in warranty, and your coming up to your first MOT its a good idea to have the usual suspension bits properly checked out (arb links, tie rod ends and strut top end) checked out and replaced free under warranty if necessary. Otherwise, I personally won't pay more than

If they're leaning in then that would explain the wear. Check the top end of the strut for any movement, its common for the top end bush to wear. What pressures do you use? I use 36-38psi at front. You can tell if a tyre is a directional design by looking at the sidewall, look for a large arrow indicating the correct direction of rotation, also look for the words inner or outer, assymetric designs require to be mounted the right way round. Of course, you might have just have had a bad set of tyres......

Tracking errors don't make cars drift to left or right - common misconception. It makes cars oversteer (toe out) or understeer (toe in) and causes heavy tyre wear (but not like yours..) :) Standard ghia tyres are 215/60 R15 95 H - anyone else confirm this? But I don't think this is the reason either......Are Dunlop SP tyres directional? i.e. were they fitted the wrong way round? Have you recently acquired the car? i.e. what is the history....I suggest maybe your car has been in a major shunt and its not been rebuilt correctly and the Camber setting is all wrong. With the car on a level road and wheels lined up straight, take a look from the front - about 15 yards in front - Are the wheels sitting vertical or are they leaning in/out?

This is often associated with faulty brake bulbs and/or faulty brake switch and has been covered many times before! Try a search for brake switch :) I suggest you resolve your bulb check issue first....treat yourself to some new bulbs (of the correct type!) which one was it that blew?