seatkid

There is no relay 30 on Tdi - its the petrol pump relay! Struggling to turn over and won't accept a charge? Buy a new battery and stop messing about.......

The thermal coefficient of expansion of water is 0.00021 per 1

No..... thats the REAR brake disc pistons you wind back (self adjusing handbrake mechanism) You just push the FRONT brake pistons back (with the nipple open to stop dirt fluid going back into the ABS control block etc.)

Disconnect the battery (check the radio code first) for 5 minutes and reconnect thereby reset all stored MAF data. After reconnecting, the ECU will retrain in the first few miles of operation.

No. For a start, the injectors are larger - a chipped 115 bhp physically can not get the quantity of fuel in in the correct time frame hence the (illegal) smoke that also loads up the oil with soot in a fraction of the normal service time. This is the main reason why the 130 and more so the 150 are lumpier and narrower power band than the 115. Remember the manufacturers have to manufacture vehicles that comply with emission rules for the life of the vehicle. Lots of other things are different, including the head (iirc sodium filled valves, whatever they are), upgraded oil cooler etc etc all to cope with the extra heat output. Most importantly, the braking system is upgraded.

I think you're clutching at straws....... :ph34r:

It means its illegal for road use and a car fitted with this device needs to be certified individually (presumably this is in Germany)

The problem is with the wiring loom where it goes into the door. Wires connect the door lock switch and immobiliser led. Check for open circuits, the wire break inside the (usually degraded) insulation.

When I click on upload.jpg, or the preview image in the "Last 10 Posts [ In reverse order ]" I get..... "Sorry, but you do not have permission to use this feature. If you are not logged in, you may do so using the form below if available." But I am logged in!!! :) The upload fields are missing......Tried both Firefox 2.0.4 and IE6

As the pantomine goes....Oh no you can't........ :)

Der electromagneticisher clutch ist kaput....... New compressor required (although I read somewhere that the clutch can be refurbished/replaced)

Ford Galaxy 150+ bhp (remapped, was 115) Tdi Ghia, 2001 mk2, state blue, 6 speed manual, 70k miles, warped head, likes to drink water a great advert for chipping.....

Booster heater can be tested by shorting out its temperature sensor which is located near the pollen filter. Apparently a mini fuse is a perfect fit for the connector. With the engine cold the heater will start after you start the engine. Here's one I photographed earlier.... or at least it would be if GTEUK had'nt removed the UPLOAD option!!!!

Have you tried unplugging the battery for five minutes (after checking you have the radio code first). Should reset the ECU to default settings.

If you are going to clamp your brake hose, use a proper hose clamp and not a G-clamp which will damage the hose internally. And yes, that inboard pad is worn to the metal :) wonder why I never buy second hand cars?.....

Door open - engine stops - obviously door wiring loom problem (in the rubber boot to the door) The wires suffer from (unseen) open circuits as well as the more obvious insulation fatigue leading to shorts. The doorlock and flashing led are linked to the unit controlling the immobiliser.

Remove the thermostat and run without it. If the engine stays cold, i.e. well below normal then the pump is OK.

No. Safety critical items need to come from known sources. Chances are that the Ebay supplier is supplying cheap Chinese parts (otherwise he would have said if it was Bosch etc.) Likely to wear quickly and or warp IMO a false economy with questionable safety. You need to speak to a woman.....maybe your Mum? If you don't know about brake nipples, you shouldnt be changing your brakes yourself. Some on the job training with an "expert" is advisable before doing safety critical jobs.

Yes, its quite common to get a dealer who hasn't a clue :blink:

AC pressure switch is a 3 way device i.e. lo/normal/hi. So it looks like yours is a high pressure problem due to too much gas (has it been regassed recently?) or a faulty switch or possibly a dicky connector/wiring.

Hmmm just thinking out loud...... :wacko: IIRC, the VR6 engine is fitted with a variable displacement pump, which means it can vary the rate of delivery with speed. The idea being it delivers constant flow thought the range of engine speed. This will done by altering the angle of a "swashplate" inside the pump. I don't know how the control works, whether it is electrical or mechanical, but this might be stuck or sticky in your case. Time for someone to check the TIS wiring schedule for your model....(not me though....) Or this might be a load of old bollocks I dreamt up.....

You need will some large spanners, socket set (w/allen keys) , and possibly a large hammer and WD40. Change it yourself if you must, but do you have the equipment (and training) to set up the steering geometry which will require setting after the new tie rod end is fitted? You can get the job done quite cheaply at places like tyre/exhaust centres. Better to use the ones that have "laser" optical alignment kit (i.e. not the cheapo mirror kit)

Booster heater.....diesel powered heater unit for Siberean winters....the "drain" you refer to is actually a mini exhaust c/w mini cat!...not to be touched while running unless you want 1st degree burns! It only comes on when the ambient temp is low (5 deg or 10 deg depending on model) and the coolant temp is low....and it sounds like a jet engine when working Flashing panel usually means low a/c gas and therefore no a/c Pollen filter is buried on the top of the engine bay scuttle panel on the nearside (passenger side), to the right of the wiper linkage looking toward the rear of the car..... How to change a pollen filter and tomorrow it will rain........

There is sticker next to the bonnet latch in the engine bay with the amounts - look for the tell tale "R134A" - if there are two quantities the lower is for single a/c and the higher is for dual a/c.

A faulty switch and/or wiring thereto.