seatkid

Only a few old timers will recall that I do my own servicing, following very poor service at my local and not so local SEAT dealers. Furthermore, contrary to most advice, I stretch out the service intervals to 12,500 / 18months. I justify this on the grounds of my driving patterns and style, the fact that the car is garaged and I only use original filters and fully synthetic oil (Quantum Gold). I also don

The only problem I really have had with my car in 77000 miles and 9 years was the fiasco of the aircon which started playing up toward the end of the warranty period. The dealer pratted around for over 6 months charging me

How about crankpulley loose - it balls up the timing - common problem - requires new pulley to fix.

Check earth strap on battery to bodywork. Could be starter motor. But I still think its the battery. Self discharge on a failing cell. Will keep a charge only a short time. When car wont start, whip out the multimeter and check the standing voltage immediately after trying to start. If its less than 11.5 volts then the battery's the culprit. 5 years about the limit for an original battery.

starter, sticking, bendix, hammer......why do those words sound familiar? :lol:

Immobiliser doesnt stop starter motor. Either your starter motor is duff, wiring, ignition switch or fuse for the starter solenoid. Or those neon lights are too much for the battery......... :lol:

Better with 6 inch fluffy dice and fur covered dash - more street cred..... :lol:

I think MO4 is being a little harsh there :lol: Generally most dealerships can be frustrating to deal with, but with the mkIII Galaxy being a low volume car and newish, a learning curve is to be expected. Just perservere and remember to be nice, shouting rarely gets the right result....... :lol:

You must have the special 0ps north-east version :lol: Or is that engine code YI? :lol:

adjust the tie rods - in equal amounts but in opposite directions i.e lengthen one side and shorten the other but if I were you I'd go back to the cowboy who did your tracking and tell them to do the job properly. :rolleyes:

Find the engine number - it is printed on your V5 registration doc. 1st letters denote engine fitted 1Z = 90ps (EuroII) AHU = 90ps (EuroIII) AFN = 110ps

You have checked the battery of course..... :rolleyes: Are you saying the starter motor doesnt turn? Then have been a number of posts lately which turned out to be a duff starter motor.

Obviously dont lever against the glass, use the shaft housing as the lever point, twisting the (LARGE) driver for leverage.

The arm fits onto a splined shaft, the same as all wipers. Once you remove the nut, get a large screwdriver and lever off the arm up off the spline. Its corroded a little and thats why its tight.

From what i've read that the immobiliser turns off the engine approx 1 sec after firing up so yes it would look as if its trying to start. Search for posts regarding immobiliser, I'm sure theres a fair bit about read coils, faulty steering column wiring etc.

Forgive me for saying this, but I just don't see how insurance companies would entertain major changes such as a completely non standard engine.

I think if it were the immobiliser, then the led flashes rapidly when you try to start. (check with a search for posts about this) The common problem with the immobiliser is that when people change the battery in the key fob, the immobiliser chip falls out of the key.......

Best not to park this car anywhere in Central London at the mo...... :16:

It wouldnt be called an immobiliser if it could be bypassed..... :16: when i turn on ignition the red led on the door comes on for about 5 seconds and then goes out So does mine! ;) if it was the immobiliser would the engine crank The engine cranking is not inhibited by the immobiliser, the immobiliser inhibits the ECU, ie. fuelling to the injectors. So.....if you can't turn the engine over, start thinking, battery......leads.......starter motor.....ignition switch.......

I think he looked at the engine cover and saw 2.3l :ph34r: neiluk has the correct info.

If its the only bulb blowing then its either: faulty or incorrectly adjusted brake switch (causing the light to stay on or flicker) or more likely cheap and nasty bulbs (maybe from the same batch) - use Osram or Philips bulbs i.e. OEM

pumping the brake until it goes hard means you used up all the vacuum and lost assistance, then when you keep your foot on the brake after this, the vacuum builds up again and the pedal sinks/ goes soft as assistance returns. Not sure if you should normally be able to "pump until hard" with engine running though, perhaps others can try and post a comment. If not then you have a vacuum leak in the piping(common problem) or servo(not as common but known to happen..)

Outer cv joints on FWD cars are MOT items but not inner CVs or rear CVs. It will fail if the boot is split, don't ask me why though.....

Is there no end to the talent of the Galaxy? Swimming underwater....no problem. :rolleyes:

The car evidently got wind of your plan and has decided it doesn't want to go. :rolleyes: