seatkid

Why not just fix the wires?

I thought that area had been abandoned/evacuated in the 1950's......

the windows of heaven were opened, and the rain was upon the earth forty days and forty nights......in other words, very wet........ :o

I would say you've found the problem......

Ahah..... Check your auxillary belt tensioner, it may be kaput and the belt slipping and not driving the water pump as it should. The aux belt should be nice and tight.

Need to see a doctor, probably an infection but needs antibiotics at least I would say. Paracetamol is the only thing I can recomend but watch the maximum dose for his age is not exceeded. If you don't get any joy from the duty doctor take him to A&E.

Don't think there will be any significant damage. PD is not as delicate as CR If you have any DIY carmechanic experience, I would drain off the tank, new fuel filter and some diesel and you should be away after a bit of cranking. I think what happenned was, the fuel mixed while stood, and when you started the fuel pump circulated the fuel (there is a return line), hence no start - which is good (as it stops further damage) If you go to a garage, be prepared for lots of sharp intakes of breath, and much shite talk about this needs changing and that needs changing, and

Correct Not much of a garage then..... I believe that the brake switches wouldnt show up as a fault as they can be open or closed depending on brake pedal position. They are probably either faulty or incorrectly adjusted, its a common fault. There is also a switch on the clutch (don't know where).

On second thoughts the detached impeller is a VW thing and you have a ford engine, so yes it could be a blocked radiator...

I recently gpt a 1998 galaxy ghia x 2.3 auto.but seems to have a bit of a problem.it seems there is a bit of a dead spot in the accelerator pedel.the engine cuts out at certain point but if you press your foot all the way down or back off a bit the engine cuts back it. Possibly Throttle position sensor also there was a terrible squeel coming from the engine bay so i assumed it was the aux belt so i changed this at the weekend which seemed to solve it all for 10 mins.any ideas? Probably the belt tensioner is kernacked. airbag light is on permantly? Airbag wiring has been disturbed in the past or there is a problem with the "clock spring" in the steering wheel. You need VAG-COM or dealer diagnostics to reset the light. abs light is on? Faulty sensor or wiring/plug (4 sensors, one per wheel) changed the battery also in my key fob to reprogramme it but the fob just flashs and that key wont start the car as well.the door light stays static. You probably lost the immobiliser chip which sometimes drops out when you open the key fob. Without that I'm afraid the key is u/s any ideas on these probs would be great I presume you knew about these problems before you bought and haggled appropriately. If you bought from a garage you should have some guarantee. Selling a car with airbag and/or ABS light on is selling an unroadworthy car (it wont pass the MOT)

Get a house with a garage and use it! Drug addicts will steal in broad daylight to get a tenner down the pub. Even if caught, they start again the next day when released. Big problem when parking near our local hospital.

Good lad Jimjamo! Excellent info. :lol: If everybody posted the outcome of their problems, then we'd all be that much wiser!

Probably water pump (detached impeller)

One good trader does not make them all good.

Or for a few quid more get a genuine one from your local dealer. Don't forget to haggle.

I notice Philwalfc got his MAF off "Fleabay". I'm inclined to think he got sold a recon/cleaned up/counterfeit/wrong model one. Hence the flat spot. I'm sure others here have had the same problem

Glad you got it sorted, at least it wasnt Relay 30... :unsure:

If water goes through as fast as you can fill with a garden hose then IMO you dont have a problem with the radiator. If it is blocked then all I would do is try to flush though using mains water pressure, maybe some fairy liquid. Cant see redex doing any good. Try shopping around, e.g. These people or these people to name but two that can supply at around

Check blocked air filter then look for lack of turbo boost which could be due to: leaks in the vacuum operated control system (pipes or brake servo) or faulty TCS (turbo control solenoid) or wiring thereto or faulty turbo (wastegate or vane actuator sticking) or could be blocked/holed intercooler or leaking intercooler pipes, or faulty MAP (Manifold pressure sensor)/wiring or faulty MAF.

When changing any major component in a/c, you should change the dryer as well. Also the part(s) should either be filled with the "appropriate" amount of oil - see TIS - or the "appropriate" amount of oil should be added when the system is recharged. Failure to do this could result in a rapid seizure of the compressor.

Would be nice if someone posted a pic. When changing any major component in a/c, you should change the dryer as well. Also the part(s) should either be filled with the "appropriate" amount of oil - see TIS - or the "appropriate" amount of oil should be added when the system is recharged. Failure to do this could result in a rapid seizure of the compressor.

Good enough reason for never considering a car with a dual mass flywheel! In my opinion, a flywheel should last the lifetime of the car, dual mass or not. VW seem to be getting worse and worse.

Ummm....do you really know what you're fitting? Any official dealer would always use genuine parts unless specifically told to, thats the point of the franchise. In addition its a simple thing to ask the dealer for evidence of original parts being used. They all have fully traceable QA systems linked to the manufacturers (at least those I use have). The quality and price of work carried out by dealers are the only things I have issues with. But I always consider buying the genuine part from the dealer, in a lot of cases I've found it not much more expensive than other sources. Some parts can even be much cheaper than say Halfords (who I would definitely not recomend as I have massive problems with some of their parts in the past) An ebay seller is about as accountable as a car boot seller. Sure there are good ones but there is a lot of carp sold, fraudulently described and also counterfeit items. Chinese counterfeit product is very convincing and believe me, there is a lot out there. Its you're choice, but don't complain if those discs warp or the pads fade on that mountain pass with all the kids in the car....... ^_^ :rolleyes:

I think its more likely you have a faulty glow plug relay which is arcing - giving the fizz and reduced power to the glow plugs or Could also be the glow plug fuse / fuse holder......

I think you should read Jackspud's post